Your JDM is still gonna rust.

[MONKRY]

No matter how immaculate your JDM is, whether you spent balls of dosh getting that perfect JDM hachi from Jap land somewhere down the line that bastard of a foetal rust is finally matured and ready to spout after slowly eating away at the metal for vital nutrition. Slowly without you knowing its grown from a tiny spec to a mutha under the surface and only will you know that its done its damage is when you notice that pimple imperfection reflecting light all over the place on the side of you perfect panel.

You curse, you swear at it, you go back and forth negotiating with it, you harasse it, you threaten it....You want to break the hammer and hammer that lump to hell. But the damage is done. Now you are paranoid about other infected areas that without treatment will turn your precious into a uncontrollable hormone riddle hachi.

This affects everyone. We all love our hachi and to see our pride and joy suffer makes us weak at the knees. I personally find it hard to swallow.

So unless you have the skills and the money you can have your precious undergo plastic surgery to make her immaculate again, a show stopper, the best hachi you will ever see. Surgery is useless unless we address all the problem areas at its source buy removing it, shutting it.

I've gone through this forum, I type in RUST in search and boom a whole list of entries come up that talk about cutting rust, panel beaters, painter, and people curses and emotions. I am looking for information that can help all us owners make our hachi rust free forever. No much point in performing surgery if the problem areas are not addressed, be a total waste.

Most of us are familiar with the usual spots and most are quick fixes however what I would like to learn is how we can stop the reoccurance of rust. Some spots are more prone because they trap water, dirt etc. What can be done to prevent rust from breeding in these areas. The most common areas that are hardest to fix and prone are the arches in and out, door jams, pillars and the sills on the bottom of the car where the water runs off.

It would be very much appreciated and I am sure all of us will be very humble to learn from members personal experience at performing a total strip, overhaul resto themselves or either by a professional restorer. Which areas needed to be cut and shut. How its performed?. Process involved including hot dipping.

Yes we are all aware that money is a factor and most of us don't have that cash lying around. I dont want to make this topic a money issue as most of us are aware how much it will set us back. Like everyone here we saved to buy parts to in our hachi, likewise we can save to have our car go for surgery/ full resto in 5 - 10 years time (before she falls apart). If anyone would like to divulge on the process from start to finish, the cost please feel free as it would help us all understand how much we will need to budget for.

I've asked around in perth and a full strip and assemble, shot blast, some panel work, rust cut out, primer and paint was quoted around 5g (not metallic paint) from a professional restorer. This does not include hot dipping.

So yeah if anyone would like to share even if its not a hachi but had something similar done, we will be most humble and appreciate your contribution. I hope that this will be a reference for anyone who in the future would like their aus spec or JDM or mutant hachi restored and look as young as when she rolled off the line in the 80s.

Cheers.

[john84ie]

You should get on ae86irl.com.. In Ireland rust is a real issue, loads of guys do bare shell nut and bolt rebuilds, worth checking out man

[MONKRY]

thanks for the link.

[MONKRY]

Very curious as to how many, or who has actually gone through the resto process and perfected their hachi to their personal standards? Most people seem to spend most of their money on going fast and squatting parts as oppose to perfecting the chassis and body and interior.

How many actually plan on keeping their vehicle or even considering restoring one to keep or is it not worth the time and money?

I know some of you have sold on your hachi, regretted it and bought another because it was a car that did it for you. Some of you even sold it on for something with more power, regretted it and came back for less power and more raw hachi action. Some of you sold it on, regretted it, and still regret now.

[mcBen]

I'm rebuilding mine because I didn't want to drive some rusty bog ship. Don't see how people can happily drive such haggard cars

[Sam-Q]

a corrosive dip followed by a gal dip would result in a near complete stop of any further rust. Big cash though.

The electronic "rust prevention" things do nothing.

[jakel]

Was going to say this, if car manufactures could get away with just putting a little electronic box on instead of doing what they do at the factory I'm sure they would then.

[jmae86]

would galvanised dipping not warp the panels, i think they would be too thin steel to take the heat, open to correction though..

[haveaparty]

rust occures because moisture gets into the steel. the way to stop this is to coat any unprotected steel in oil to stop moisture getting in. my advice, no matter what car or how old it is, buy a fair few cans of fish oil (rust proofing) and drown every single inner panel, for example. take the door cards off and coat the back of the door skin, especially right in the edged where it rust the most, same goes for rear quater panels. take the kick trims off and shoot the nozzel down the screw holes to coat the inside of the sil panel. same goes for pillars, take the trim off, blast the oil down any hole to ensure its completly covered. especially do this after any repairs are done. factory panels have a thin coating on them so takes a bit for rust to come through. but any repairs may have bare metal on the inner now so be sure to drown that bad boy in fish oil to prevent it rusting again.

[mcBen]

Do you know if you have to re coat with oil every once in a while? I'm going to use kbs chassis coat, anyone tried it?