I'm fuking stumped!! Sr20 gearbox/clutch

[sundee]

So I'm usually pretty good at figuring shit out, but this one has just got me fucked!

My clutch pedal was going to the floor after bleeding, so I had to pull it back by hand.
I bled the system in the car, removed the master and slave and bench bled it,
I replaced the slave, no better, I replaced the master.
Still the same!!!!!
I even made a new line from Braid incase the original line had a leak(nothing was visual)
But I'm trying to rule out everything because nothing makes sence.
WTF!!

I clutch in, and it's notchy through the gears without the engine running.
I'm just about to have dinner, so I'll go back start the car and try it but I am 99% sure it will still not disengage .

The clutch fork is on its sleeve and the thrust bearing is brand new.

Has anyone got any ideas??

I'm stumped and I'm about to burn this bitch!

[Skylar]

Yo,

first time putting the engine into car? ie CA/SR into corolla? I think the issue is that the corolla master is smaller than the silvia one and you gotta make the master cylinder move enough fluid to displace the slave enough to move the clutch to disengage.

I had the same problem with mine and that's the conclusion I came to. I never actually looked into or researched it.

All I did to solve it was bleed it with the clevis on the clutch wound out(no thread into the clevis) and when the clutch didn't work, I wound it as far as it could the other way(thread into the clevis and touching the back of the clutch pedal arm). It may have been the other way, I don't remember. I do like my clutch to engage like a half an inch off the floor so that's how it was initially set up with the t-50 slave before I changed to nissan slave.
If that don't work, you'll have to get the toyota master bored to nissan size or adapt toyota slave to nissan trans.

If it's a nissan/nissan feel free to ignore my post.

[sundee]

Stuff should have said its all in an S13, was CA now SR.
Has all the SR gear including master and slave.
I know the box is 100% because I've driven with it before...
I just have NFI .
Yeah if it were something like you mentioned it would be a starting point.
It's a new engine so it's just been re installed.
Near new clutch ( was using it before with same fly)
New thrust bearing, new slave , news master, new lines, new fluid and correct grade.
...... See why I'm stumped?

[sleeper_13]

a similar thing happened in a daily of mine (no a silvia) sure it isnt a bent clutch fork?

[Skylar]

Well next thing to establish is, is the slave moving and is it moving the fork?

Did you intend to change the clutch pivot and forget to put the new one on or something? As in did you check operation of the fork previous to installing?

Oh, did you remove the crazy box while you were putting a new clutch line on?

[sundee]

Crazy box is goneski!
I've made sure everything is moving as it should.
I still think there is air in the system, but stuffed if I know how... I'm going to see if I can get my hands on a vacuum bleeder.
The pivot looked fine soi didn't bother.
Can't be a be t fork, last time I used the same box/clutch/ fork etc it was all dandy....
The pedal just feels shithouse... It's just soft.

I was able to get it in gear and take it for a wrap... New engine... Stuff, I got the machine work done.
Assembled it, did the 1st run for 30min, comp tested it.... 190 psi on all 4!!!
With 8.5:1 pistons and o.8mm HG ...... Hmmm wonder what the comp ratio would be... Outrageous I bet..

[lolwat]

flywheel thickness

gravity bleed it for a bit, get someone to put the pedal a few times and hold down and crack the bleeder

[sundee]

Oh I wish it were so simple, did all the normal bleeding procedures 50 times over... Still no love.
Fly wheel thickness is fine.

[Matt]

did u bench bleed the master first?

[maxhag]

Is the pin on the slave moving Joel?