20v running issues

[Gerardw]

G'day guys" I'm looking for a bit of advice, I got a silver top 20 valve with some running issues.
First off this conversion was done some time ago (15000 klms) and up to now has had no issues, so it is all wired correctly. Currently it's chugging black smoke ( over fuelling) and generally lacking in power. The idle control valve is clicking rapidly and continuously yet it idles ok. When I turn on the ignition the engine check light comes on as usual, then when I hit the starter button the light goes out while its cranking, it takes about 10 seconds of cranking then the check engine light will come back on and the engine starts soon after. The ecu is not showing any error codes. Thanks in advance for any help.
ps this is running the factory ecu

[Skylar]

Check the afm. Make sure plugs aren't fouled.

Is it dizzy relocation, spark splitter or standalone + COP?

[Gerardw]

Thanks for the suggestions,
The ignition is completely standard, dizzy in original spot.
engine stalls when I disconnect the afm so I assume its working????
plugs are new.

[dove grey 64]

Checked over fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator?

[hayashi]

Check the fuel injectors. They may be damaged, causing your engine to be over flooded with fuel.

[Skylar]

When I say check the afm, I mean refer to manual and check the afm using fsm procedure. It could be the afm reading a lot higher than what it should be but still reading something. In that case unplugging it will make a huge difference to the operating point on the fuel and ignition maps. My experience with afm engines is that when you unplug the afm, it will mostly stall out. Start the car back up without the afm and see if it makes a difference to the idle.

You checked for air leaks? Like big ones that might be letting all the air bypass the afm making the ecu disregard the afm signal?

[Gerardw]

Ok sorry for the misunderstanding ill check it as described. The engine will not start however with the afm disconected.

[Skylar]

Hmm, ok. Nissans will start and idle without afm and it idles rock solid without an afm. Which is an easy check I use for nissans, doesn't seem to work on toyotas.

[Matt]

Work out what the code is, done by bridging the te and e1 pins in the diag box.

[Gerardw]

Thanks for your replies guys, here's what i found today.
burnt tracks in the ecu circuit board and leaking capacitors as well.
one of the burnt tracks goes to G2 pin which i think is for the crank angle sensor input {correct me if i'm wrong}
another goes to a pin labelled EC and then the third letter is not legible, any guesses for that one.?
I have tried to post some pics of it but for some reason it won't work.
seems logical that this damage to the ecu could be causing the running problems?? right?
On the bright side it does seem like a good excuse to go out and buy an aftermarket ecu.