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Thread: 4age ke70 will not turn over

  1. #11
    Senior Member KAYE70's Avatar
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    The starter motor is all fresh, has had contacts and brushes changed last week,

    I tested the starter motor out of the car and it worked,

    I have constant power at the spade terminal, and power at solenoid plug when cranking,

    Not sure how much power tho, only used a testlight, will check power with a multimeter tonight

  2. #12
    Member rianwest's Avatar
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    Spade terminal shouldn't be constant power, that should only have 12 volts when the key is in the 'start' position. The spade terminal is the solenoid terminal.
    Did you try the screwdriver trick? If that doesn't work then you either have a damaged starter cable or a shitty earth, assuming there is nothing wrong with your starter motor.
    Also check that your engine will turn over by hand.

  3. #13
    Senior Member KAYE70's Avatar
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    I meant the bolt terminal, the main thick power cable one, there is constant power there,

    At the solenoid spade terminal there is only power whilst cranking as it should be,


    The motor turns over fine by hand and the starter motor works fine out of the car, I thought it would be earth problem but I've got 3 new earths hooked up, from battery to the block, from batter to the body of car, and from bell housing bolt right near the starter motor to the body, ill go over everything tonight with a multi and let you know how I go

  4. #14
    Senior Member KAYE70's Avatar
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    Okay so I found a short, don't know what the wire is but I'm sure it's the problem because when I wiggle it, it cuts out all the dash lights and stuff, only thing that will work when it's shorted is haZards and headlights,

    Here's the pic




    Ill fix the short and let you peeps know how it goes

  5. #15
    Member rianwest's Avatar
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    Those are your fusible links from the original KE70 loom, they are probably blown rather than shorted out. Two of the fusible links go to the ignition barrel (AM1, AM2 I think), and the other one bypasses the ignition barrel and goes to headlights. If they are blown you can ditch them and use a newer set of fusible links like this:

    Last edited by rianwest; 1st May 2013 at 10:26 PM.

  6. #16
    Senior Member KAYE70's Avatar
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    There's no fuseible links on my car :s not that box in that picture, the 3wires come straight off the + and into a plug, then go down into the fuse box somewhere

  7. #17
    Member rianwest's Avatar
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    Those 3 wires coming off the positive terminal that immediately go into a plug are indeed fusible links, hence the plug so you can easily change them when they blow (not anymore because it's almost impossible to buy that fusible link wire). But it's also easy to replace them with a more modern fuse setup.

  8. #18
    Senior Member KAYE70's Avatar
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    I was just gonna replace the wires myself, I got the right connectors and shit to use to I can still use the plug, should I setup fuses ? If so what sort of amp fuse? 30? 40?

  9. #19
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    was it originally an auto?

  10. #20
    Member rianwest's Avatar
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    Yes set up fuses. Get yourself a wiring diagram and a multimeter and find out which fusible link goes where. AM1 fusible link is 80amp (starter motor, accessories etc), AM2 fusible link is 30amp (ignition, EFI etc), the other one is headlights etc, maybe go with a 30amp fuse for this. Or just go snag a fusible link setup of a newer Corolla and wire it in, which is probably the easier and neater solution.

    Like this:


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