Make sure you bridge the diagnostic (ecu pins TE and E1) when setting the timing.
Will check that today, if alternator is not charging enough it could be because battery is located in the rear rather than the front so could be some voltage loss!
Or could be alternator belt not tightened enough.
OR could be alternator wiring.
I think the seriously boggy revs and ITB backfire is because I may have overdone the distributor timing
I`ll put it all the way back then work my way out!
Make sure you bridge the diagnostic (ecu pins TE and E1) when setting the timing.
Ae86 Drivingclub - Toyota AE86 Car Club where AE86 | KE70 | Toyota 86 / GT86 | Subaru BRZ | Scion FRS owners
I do have a 2-pin diagnostic plug but never heard you had to bridge that to set the timing?
I adjusted the timing without doing that and the engine seems to be doing just fine?
Last edited by Tore; 9th May 2013 at 11:17 PM.
All 4ages need the base timing locked so if can be set. Done by bridging the diagnostic pins.
Have u driven the car yet?
Ae86 Drivingclub - Toyota AE86 Car Club where AE86 | KE70 | Toyota 86 / GT86 | Subaru BRZ | Scion FRS owners
Aaah I see, so I just leave the kill-switch in, then bridge the diagnostic pins and adjust the timing so that the ECU can work from there, didnt know! Thanks for the info man
Havent driven the car yet (Oil sludge, low oil pressure) so going to flush the engine, pick up a water temp sender, fill the diff up then take her for a test-drive.
But I`m having trouble getting signal from Tacho, I tried connecting black-orange tacho wire to the black wire on the 12v firewall connector, but still no go, tried connecting it to the grey one too but no cigar.
Another couple of issues is that the clutch slave cylinder seems to be shot (It`s leaking fluid), and the knock sensor @ the block has a completely broken plug, I managed to find a small enough cable shoe to fit around the small metal pin thats still sticking out but if it falls out or breaks off thats going to be bad news..
Google for ae86 tacho mod. Then it will work, its a matter of a about 2 resistors and one cap being swapped on the tacho circuit. I modified the ae86 method for the ke70/ae71 cluster and it works there too. Give it a go, its great seeing a stable, correct reading std tacho.
Ah, I`m not running waste-spark COP
You don't need a tacho mod for the 20v into the ae86. Works just fine off the igniter output
Ae86 Drivingclub - Toyota AE86 Car Club where AE86 | KE70 | Toyota 86 / GT86 | Subaru BRZ | Scion FRS owners
Indeed.
I found out that tacho works best if the connector with positive and negative power for the instruments is plugged onto left footwell junction...
But theres still an issue with Tacho showing 200RPM too much, when I turn the engine off its left at the 200 mark as well
Getting a bit more confident about leaving the kill-switch on so I adjusted the timing a little bit more, but I`m uncertain about one thing..
Should I leave the diagnostics bridged when starting the engine after adjusting the timing?
check the timing again cams and crank my friend had this same issue it slipped 1 tooth on the crank pulley and i realized it was super dohey
and yeah my motor is going well i just finished my w5x gearbox conversion and the motor is going strong but its getting anew bottomend soon and a garret 3076
the dyno pull to 300rwkw
BT20v is making 300rwkw like i said i would without nitrous so now its time for some spray and see if she will run a 10s or less