20v 4A-GE cranks but doesnt start.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Does the ae86 have a tacho baord with a variable resistor like a ke70? If so you may just be able to tune the 200rpm down a bit. I can tune the ke70 one with the resistor.

[Tore]

I`ll check the timing immediately, it was good when assembled but could be that it is a tooth or two off indeed!
Well I guess a turbo`d 4AGE is better than some SR20 swap

On a side note I finished swapping out the old vendor Volvo radiator with a really beefy Mishimoto I got for cheaps from another AE86 drifter here in Norway (He`s converting to F20C)

I also managed to install OEM water temp sender in the small front head outlet that I bought of sam (Though there was a 2mm diameter difference) Darn it feels good to know that I got the cooling as OEM ae86 as it could possibly get with the 20v, exactly as planned! (Plans and reality seldom diverge in projects like these)

I`m still pondering on why the oil pressure is so low, but it could be the cheap mineral 10W40 oil and the oil sludge in the engine so I`m simply hoping for the best!!

Hey, Matt, I know I`m nagging but I have to ask once more..
Do I leave the diagnostics bridged when starting up the engine after adjusting the timing?

Edit: I checked belt-timing and it is as when I assembled it: Dead on!! At least I did something right the first time

[Tore]

Alright, things are getting better, I flushed the engine oil twice, now almost all oil-sludge is out of the engine.
Going to get some good engine oil tomorrow (Found that the Castrol I already bought was for 4 stroke bikes...)

The reason the oil pressure is not reading right, from what I read, is because 20v oil pressure sender is not compatible with AE86, so I installed the 16v AE86 sender while engine was out of oil anyway.

Still annoyed at the tachometer being off by 200rpm (Shows more rpm than the engines got) and settles at 200rpm when engine is actually off, going to look for bad grounds tommorow to be sure though.

Anyhows this thread has more than answered the original question about non-cranking 20v, so I guess it can be laid dead now..

Thanks a lot for all the help so far! Couldnt have come this far without combined experience at forums

[LittleRedSpirit]

This might seem too obvious to be smart or possible but can you just remove the clear cover and push the needle back 200rpm when the car is off? Maybe you've just spun it somehow. I'm not certain it will work but it might be possible.

[Matt]

You unbridge it once you are happy with the timing.. This is called "base" timing where the ecu doesn't advance it

[Tore]

Thats exactly what I did, it seems to be running just about perfect when warm now, steady and nice idle at (I think) 1000-1100 rpm

LittleRedSpirit, I`ll try figuring out how to get the clear cover off and see if I cant get her to settle the heck down hehe.

Edit: Couldnt get the cover off (Managed to crack it despite being careful) but lirked a screw driver in there and got the tacho ok I think.

Still got a problem when throttling it up to 2000rpm to check if theres any knocking sounds (Of which there are none, thank god), suddenly engine decides to go full blast and keeps revving up all the way even if I release gas pedal!!
Thank god I`m ready at the ignition key..
This is kind of abunai..


I also changed the oil pressure switch with the one from the 16v, and still the oil pressure gauge acts up, I switch ignition on one step and oil pressure gauge goes all the way up to full then whips around a little bit and goes back to below zero... Still happens when I pluck the wire off the firewall connector and plug it directly onto the oil pressure switch too.. Dafuq

Pretty sure I wont be getting any more 20v`s, they seem to be flimsy as heck..

I checked timing again and it`s all perfectly lined up (Crank pulley at TDC, Cams at TDC) but it still feels boggy.