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Thread: Rust Removal Tips n Tricks

  1. #1
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    Default Rust Removal Tips n Tricks


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    This thread will have how to guides on how to tackle particular bits of rust in panels etc.

    Create a new thread with pictures of your rust that aren't shown how to fix in this thread.
    Ae86 Drivingclub - Toyota AE86 Car Club where AE86 | KE70 | Toyota 86 / GT86 | Subaru BRZ | Scion FRS owners

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    Veteran haveaparty's Avatar
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    Subscribed to this thread to help people out. I'm a panel beater and know how to do most things.

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    Senior Member Mirko's Avatar
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    I am going through this now on my 86 and actually found a guy who does it old school with metal replacement and not bog. He is a mobile guy in sydney and ill post pics of before and after if anyone is keen. Plus top price

  • #4
    Noooob
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    Yep keen on pics and guys details if he is looking to do more work.
    Ae86 Drivingclub - Toyota AE86 Car Club where AE86 | KE70 | Toyota 86 / GT86 | Subaru BRZ | Scion FRS owners

  • #5
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    I would suggest doing it yourself. Welding setups are cheap and a really good investment.

    It's such a better feeling doing everything yourself rather then having someone else do it.

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    Senior Member Mirko's Avatar
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    Hey is top bloke. His name is Hermy and his number is 0406 203 740 he is here not working on the car and will post more later but here is a progress shot before welding and cutting

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    Senior Member mcBen's Avatar
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    Some people said to me to only cut out the metal that needed to be replaced, but I found it was better to cut out more then needed even if it wasn't rusted in order to make the new metal easier to shape and fit in place..

  • #8
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    Agree with the taking more than required... If you replace a 2cm hole or a 10cm one the process is the same.
    Ae86 Drivingclub - Toyota AE86 Car Club where AE86 | KE70 | Toyota 86 / GT86 | Subaru BRZ | Scion FRS owners

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    Senior Member K1W1 Simo's Avatar
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    The vent hole at the bottom of the B pillar is the source of all of the moisture that is causing the rust. Welding a 'patch' right next to the stricker plate only means that you need to grind it flat to fit the door stricker on correctly. Ideally you would cut out the steel above the stricker plate and weld that onto the new section. With the rust hole that is close to the outer skin of the rear quarter, that is going to 'pucker' hard when the heat of the welder kicks in. That door shut will need a big chunk of bog to get it back to factory fit.

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    Senior Member Mirko's Avatar
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    He is cutting out more but just doing it in sections that was the first section he did. He has already cut out the rest and pretty happy with it all to be honest it wont be coming back anytime soon

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