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Thread: Rust Removal Tips n Tricks

  1. #21
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    I find using an oxy so much easier than mig. Just prob what I have used the most. My mig on the lowest setting still burns holes in the job easily. It doesn't have a pulse option which sucks.

    I have about 200 odd pics from repairs I've done recently which ill use for new threads depending on what you want you need to do.
    Ae86 Drivingclub - Toyota AE86 Car Club where AE86 | KE70 | Toyota 86 / GT86 | Subaru BRZ | Scion FRS owners

  • #22
    Senior Member Mirko's Avatar
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    No he cuts old one out. So first he cuts out a replacement but bigger then the rust then uses that as a template to cut out the rust then removes it all and welds in new bit

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    So he then welds in in flush, if that's the case sounds good, what welding technique does he use & any finished welding before painted photos would be good / interesting to see ..

  • #24
    Senior Member Mirko's Avatar
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    Full old school not lead but cant remember whats its called. Ill take some pics put its good work l can say that

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    For body panels, if u have access to an oxy welder and the skills to do it, then that is the way to go. Much neater welds. Can file finish if ur fussy. Much easier to hammer and dolly and file. For parts that are not visual or structural components. Then mig welding is best. Doesnt need to be as neat cause its hidden, more strength for structural areas, a lot less fiddley and quicker.

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    Senior Member K1W1 Simo's Avatar
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    When I was in the 'resto' business, I spent 4 months on an Alfa Junior body- hand making panels, butt welding them in and hammer and filing the whole car to a smooth paintable surface. That would of cost the owner $20,000 + in body work alone. The 86 and the Alfa both have really thin steel panels, very hard to work with.

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    Senior Member mcBen's Avatar
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    Is a layer of bog over new welds essential for filling nooks and crannys or is it only cosmetic? I don't really want to use it since my welded bits are all hidden by bumpers and cowls

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    Bog isnt necessary. If the parts are hidden then I would bother. But for the outside body panels, if u want it to look smooth and not spend hours file finishing then bog is ur best friend.

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    For removing the rust there is need of organic polymer, which provides a protective primer layer on the surface and remove the rust completely.
    Last edited by jones23; 14th March 2014 at 08:53 PM.

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    Junior Member roughworld's Avatar
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    Ive just noticed this thread, don't know how I missed it haha.. Ive been working in restoration for the last 6 years, Its always been a passion of mine, and to save killing it I got out of smash repair asap

    I personally wouldn't touch corolla outer skins with an oxy, but I'm interested to see some pics of those who have

    Couple tips I've got for mig welding rust repairs, always try and make your patch with rounded edges instead of just a square with sharp edges.. It distributes the heat a lot better and you'll have less chance of warping. And take your time fitting the patch, ultimately you want your patch slightly undersized like 1-2mm, it gives it room to stretch with the heat. If u don't leave room and the patch is too snug, you'll notice your patch will raise up because it its got nowhere to go.
    Its always good to have a wet rag handy too, for an area like a roof, or bonnet, keep the area near your welds cool for less chance of warping. Id be happy to help anyone in s.e subs if beers supplied

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