Order of oil filter and oil cooler.

[willa]

Howdy partners,

I'm replacing my 4agte that spun a bearing. The sump was full of shavings and the like, and after flushing my braided lines it seems there is crap everywhere. Is there any problem with running the following order for my remote filter and cooler setup?

I'm plan to go out of the engine -> cooler -> filter and back to engine. That way any stuff I can't remove will hopefully get caught by the filter once it's been elsewhere.

I think I will also run an inline filter on the turbo feed line.

Also once I get her to run again I'm thinking about letting it idle for 15-20mins then dumping the oil and changing filter, but I'm wondering with idle oil pressure is there any point?

Any help is appreciated,

Cheers, Will.

[dove grey 64]

Sounds ok, you'll have to do multiple engine flushes, just buy the cheapest oil and filters. A few rare earth magnets on the filter will help collect the metal fragments too.

[lolwat]

petrol wash all your lines and cooler then wash them out,
like said above cable a few magnets on the oil filter, as the metal will at least stick to it and get removed when you change the filter
it still going to be very hard to remove all the metal, it coats everything
filter on turbo feed line is a great idea

[sundee]

The sequence of the filter/ cooler means nothing in this case.
I will be blunt... You are about to do it all wrong!

Again, not being rude, but all the suggestions above are laughable and will not work! Magnets on filters?
That is cutting corners and will do nothing at all to help your cause!
Do not re assemble that engine without bathing it and flushing every oil gallery in the block, head and crank
Do a full clean of the oil pump, and the head needs to be fully disassembled and cleaned.
All that bearing metal will be in every part of that engine that oil flows through.
You need to fully flush all your lines and your cooler core.
Do not forget the turbo as well .

If you skimp on any cleaning your asking to throw another bearing straight away.
The very 1st thing your new bearings will see is metal shavings and they will trash the bearings and mark up all your journals and this will make a new engine in the run in stage, move straight to the worn out stage.

In regard to your question about sequence of plumbing, it should go pump --> filter --> cooler --> engine

[willa]

Thanks to all.

Sorry not to clarify, it is a whole seperate long motor Joel. With the order you give, I'm going to have to make sure there is zero little bits left, what's the proper way to achieve that?

Mike I've petrol flushed the lines/cooler already, how do I clean them though?

Obviously I'm happy to spend money to do it properly, as if this engine goes I'm selling up haha. I have to buy a new remote oil filter holder because the current one has cracks on the inside coating :/ some metal-like stuff has already came off it.

[lolwat]

id run a magnet on a filter??? so what cut it open and see whats inside, id prefer this over most "after market" magnetic sump plugs due to them leaking
like you said joel, you are never going to remove all the metal, with out stripping and bathing EVERYTHING, your changing long motor so its only really down to your turbo, turbo lines, cooler lines, cooler and rocker covers

get a good sandwhich plate

not alot more you really can do, petrol soak and then blow them out really well hang it all up, do it a few times

[sundee]

The long motor is the one with the spun bearing? Or is the long motor a replacement?


I'd suggest a parts washer with a running degreaser mix , they have a hose and pump so you can send running water through anywhere you want.
Then blow pressurised air down every gallery. ( watch the eyes) shrapnel starts flying out from everywhere .

[willa]

The long motor is a seperate replacement, the spun bearing one has been chucked out.

I called a radiator place but they said they couldn't help, I might stick with a few more fuel flushed and make some more calls.

[Skylar]

Run the whole external oil stuff through a hydraulic power unit and run it til it goes clean. There will be a lot of crap in there and will kill your next motor. I replaced my oil cooler because I maybe had a memory of my mate telling me the cooler he gave me was on an engine that blew.

If you're worried, run two filters, one in the normal spot and one after the cooler. Watch the oil pressure as every filter you add will add to the pressure loss.

[Vance]

the only parts i would consider reusing are the turbo and sandwich plate, and possibly hard oil lines. i would strip, clean and rebuild the turbo though. sandwich plate should be easy enough to clean unless its got a built in thermostat. if you have hard oil lines they can be washed and reused, if braided or flexible hose just replace them. throw out your oil cooler core and buy another one.