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Thread: Sunny Ute

  1. #1
    Veteran starni_boy's Avatar
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    Default Sunny Ute


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    Yep! I've acquired a 1200 sunny ute.

    Plans are:
    AE86 front coilovers
    4age 16v + T50
    R31 rear diff (at the moment, still not sure whether to run a T series or something..)
    Respray, not sure what colour, possibly mustard colour or just white.
    13x8's
    Moar low

    Anyway, pics soon! There's lots of rust and dings too. Awesome.

  • #2
    Member frosty's Avatar
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    what engine and box are currently in the ute and what are you going to do with then?

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    Veteran starni_boy's Avatar
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    A12 and a pretty sloppy 4 speed. Not sure if they're getting pulled out straight away however. Suspension and panel work first, make it go fast later.

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    Veteran drift kid's Avatar
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    R31 diff is pretty overkill for a 4ag, put some pics up!

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    Veteran starni_boy's Avatar
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    Alright, sorry for the lack of pics/updates in this. Shit has been happening but between work 5 days/travelling/surfing/drinking beers with mates, progress is a little slow. Here's a few pics first, Ill explain as I go. I didn't really get any photos from when it first turned up though, It was half pulled apart within the first week to see what I was working with.



    A12 powerhouse and a very dirty engine bay



    Diff and engine pulled out (forgot to drain gearbox oil because I needed it out within an hour)



    Underside of the tray, surface rust everywhere. Probably from being a country car it semi sandblasted the underside



    So I wire wheeled the underside and epoxy primed it ready for black underbody spray.



    While all this was going down I was also rebuilding the stock H165 diff. Funnily enough the axles are the exact same as Zenki AE86/TE72 axles, which in turn led me to upgrading the diff centre to a Zenki T series centre. The diff housing was drilled to suit the T series 10 stud pattern then all holes tapped.

    I get an upgrade from 6.5" centre to 6.7" centre (from what I remember anyway), a lighter rear diff assembly because the T series centre is around 4kg lighter and get all the aftermarket goodness that comes with AE86 parts. Also rocking R31 rear brakes which only needed 2 holes re drilled in the brackets/dust plates.



    Interior shot after i pulled the seats and carpet out. Outrageously cracked dash unfortunately..



    Brake booster (KE30) and master cylinder (R32 non ABS) to push R31 rears and AE86 fronts. KE30 brake booster has the exact same mounts as AE86/KE70 items but is quite a bit smaller. Good for running ITB's/Carbs with trumpets.



    Front coilovers I plan on using. AE86 Toda items. Picked them up for $1200 with rear shocks that were sold, so they really only cost me $950 in the end.

    Last edited by starni_boy; 15th June 2014 at 05:30 PM. Reason: photo resizing

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    Hair model Jacobxxx's Avatar
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    Woah cool to know about the diff!

    Looking really good man

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    Looking good mate i have a dat to ute running a 4age with t50 box.drives well goes ok for a standard 16v is the r31 diff set up for for the ute?
    If you don't use it I'm looking to buy one for my ute. Looks good so far!

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    Veteran Jdm-Mcc's Avatar
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    Excellent! Im hoping to start work on my b20 again soon! super cool about the t series internal conversion! glad you didnt use an r31 diff, I would have suggested ta22 t series for that narrow goodness

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    Veteran starni_boy's Avatar
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    Been busy working on this after work each day lately. All rust is fixed, 90% of the panel work is done and the engine/box are in and mounted. Still yet to spray any colour but I've been smoothing out the engine bay and getting rid of any unnecessary brackets around the car.

    AE86 front suspension is all in and mounted, and the steering has been converted to an AE86 steering rack. With the 13x8's i have here for it they clear everything by around 10mm.

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    Veteran starni_boy's Avatar
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    Motor and box:



    Mounted in the engine bay:





    It clears by 15 - 20mm at the back of the head to the firewall, and roughly 15mm from the bottom of the sump to the engine X member. Mounted as low/far back as possible and fits really nicely. This is actually the 2nd mounting set i made up, because I mounted the engine by itself without the box and it was WAY too high in the bay and I had to cut the G/box tunnel to fit it in. So it was taken out and re mounted again.

    This is the original rust repairs i did in the floor pans. It was all cut out and patched up with additional bracing through the floor for more strength.



    And I had to cut the top of the tunnel off because of the first set of engine mounts. Then I made new gearbox X member mounts in the tunnel to give more room.

    The decision was made to just cut out all the front floor pan, drill out all the spot welds and replace it and bend up a new transmission tunnel. SO much cleaner now and stronger due to everything being spot welded in place as well as seam welded.



    Bracing was put underneath the floor, and a new G/box Xmember was made up with studs welded through the floor and bracing to hold it.


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