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Thread: sr20det ae86

  1. #21
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    My Sr20 fits fine.... clears the bonnet by about 2 inches. Maybe the motor is too far forward and up or something?

  2. #22
    Veteran slydar's Avatar
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    yeah, thats your 2 options. push it back and go a bit higher.

    or run it low, and forward and deal with the other problems.

    the reason for peoples different takes on it is just caused by how far theyre willing to go with reshaping the firewall. its generally considered a pretty big no no with concern to rego. by the time you push it that far back it doesnt need spacers/clears the rack, id say youre also getting to the point where the tunnel has changed shape that much, that it wont be really possible to re fit the heater matrix. if you want to ever legitimately register your car this is going to cause an issue.

    also to be considered is when you push the engine that far back and it is sitting a little higher, on a really low car, your new 1pc tailshaft is probably gonna hit the floor as the suspension compresses.

  3. #23
    Member SR_andy's Avatar
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    when i got my sr20 in my trueno coupe we massaged the firewall and i believe that there was a slight grind of the steering rack. and we cut a section out of the bonnet in the middle to clear the tapper cover. all works beautiful and all work was done by Ant at Kaizen Garage. highly recommend. only problem i am finding now i want to upgrade/change my clutch is that i cant get to the top bellhousing bolts cause my head is only 50mm of the firewall. so engine out or suspend with engine brace and drop Xmember.

  4. #24
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    with my car it was just experimenting trying to make an 86 competative at wannaroo. its a long fast track so needed 200-250 rwhp to drift it all. we started with a ca18, blew that. then went sr20 and damaged that. then one more and damaged that. so we decided to build one and run it less than full potential. ie making it safe. my point being ,the engine and gearbox has been in and out so many times the more space you make for yourself to work with the easier it is. we even cut out the radiator support so you can get engine and box in at the same time. now it just a matter of getting the car to the track and enjoying it.

  5. #25
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    why not mod the x membe the hole center section and mounts and drop it down and re weld into position like a notch to a degree?????

  6. #26
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    you can do that, but theres no need to notch the x member. ive explained in the prior post.

    its dead simple really. the bonnet is on a slant. so the further you go back, the more room you have to close the bonnet.

    but the further you go back, the more room you need to make for the bell housing (tunnel mods).

    bretts engine doesnt have the x member notched, its not necessary.

  7. #27
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    i realise that slydar it is simple but the space to drop the engine is there the mounts are just to "big" it can drop at least 2cm till coming close to the x member it is as fr back as i want i just want the hole thing down. so geting mounts re made or the right ones will help out alot till then im stuck. i dont care if i have to grined the block or the sump its not going to hurt i just want a kit that will work or a shop to make somethig of quolity. I realise to get it further back i have to mes with the fire wall but im not going to that extent so for now its just new mounts and ill be happy is all.

  8. #28
    Senior Member Matt-AE86's Avatar
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    The actual problem with the engine hitting the bonnet is because the engine is tilted back a little. The reason for this is, trying to fit the box in the standard tunnel.

    To over come this you do 3 things.

    1/ Drop the crossmember, which will level the engine. We all know how this affects the suspension though OR
    2/ Modify the firewall and tunnel, lifting the gearbox up higher
    3/ Use an S1x crossmember and front suspension, only problem with this is longer lca's and not being able to "slam" the car without having to rectify suspension geometry.

    I actually like the idea of modding the standard crossmember, but thats not the main issue, its the steering rack, you would have to drop the steering rack and then get some tie rod ends that have the bump steer type reducer rose jointed ends.

    I myself are just going to to space my crossmember out. I have fitting my SR in with minimal mods and the biggest fabircation mod was making a gearbox crossmember. Im using a stock AE crossmember with the original mounts modified to the lower hole sitting on S13 rubber engine mounts.

  9. #29
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    why not lower the gearbox x member to lower the gearbox in sinck with the engine this was my thought. notch the stearing x member and then lower the gearbox x member then space the stearing set up up wards to orig leval. or lower the x member angles that the mounts bolt to instead of the notch..

  10. #30
    Senior Member Matt-AE86's Avatar
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    The problem is the engine is tilted BACK dropping the crossmember is just going to have it tilting back more. maybe you want to re-phrase ?

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