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Thread: Jarrad's AE86 resto project

  1. #121
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    Yeah - looks pretty factory. I'm quite happy with it.
    Website reckons it won't "crack, peel or chip" and has a self-primer built in. Which is perfect! Just wonder if it will stand to test of time.

  2. #122
    Senior Member Mirko's Avatar
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    Did u hit with clear?

  3. #123
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    Yeah I just assume all that type of paint comes off eventually but the vht stuff seems pretty strong on the test interior pieces I've done. The self primer is a great idea but I'm wary of that too as to how effective it is compared to the adhesion promoter stuff that's normally needed. Either way,the finish is nicer than the vht spray for sure. Keen to see how it all looks in the car

  4. #124
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    Nah, no clear Mirko. Just the paint.


    In other news - my block is stuffed.
    Builder called me today, been bored oversize 1mm and still rusted in the cylinder.

    I hope the universe deals the seller some hard life cards.

  5. #125
    Senior Member Mirko's Avatar
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    Dam dude that's not good at all. What u gonna do? Have a small port 4agze block u can have?

  6. #126
    Veteran Jimmee1990's Avatar
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    You could use CA18DE pistons and go 83mm bore if you can't find a decent block? Failing that you can use a bigport block and adapt the oil squirters from your smallport into it.

  7. #127
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    Engine builder can source a smallport block for me - he was a bit hesitant to bore it much further. I would say an 83mm would be boooorderline for the block.
    Also being an engine that after a 1mm bore is still corroded, it makes me worry that it would be a weakened block to begin with.

    What are CA18 pistons like James? Pin size and compression? Any good for my application? I might have a chat to him.
    I'll do a forum search as well.

    AAAANNYWAY. bit of a fun project, looking to get a new lid 3D printed up for my console. They're ALWAYS broken.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Don't intend it to be clear, just a regular black, probably printed in ABS - bit stronger than PLA.
    Used clear to show the ribs I've added underneath for strength.
    Will need to be sanded back and re-finished.
    Last edited by Jrad; 5th August 2014 at 08:34 PM.

  8. #128
    Veteran Jimmee1990's Avatar
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    83mm has been done quite a few times, as long as you're not doing really high revs or any kind of boost it's fine. Called a 4.5A-GE if you're super JDM. Standard CA18DE pistons are 0.5mm lower comp height than 10.2:1 smallport pistons, but have a slightly taller dome so work out a little higher comp from that and the bigger bore also. Would be roughly 10.8:1 - 11:1 with a standard head gasket from memory.

    They use a 20mm press fit piston pin, so you can either machine some circlip grooves and hone the pin bore to make them floating with 4A-GE pins or just keep them press fit and use the CA18 pins. The corrosion in the bore won't have weakened the block structurally, unless it's seriously bad but I doubt it.

    It is a good cheap way to get some extra capacity and compression, and I was going to go down the road myself until I found a great deal on CP 4A pistons. I think I have a console lid that's uncracked you can have for free if you want, I'll have a look tonight.

  9. #129
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    Hmm.. I'll have a chat to the engine bloke and see what he reckons about it all.

    And thanks for the offer, but it's a bit of a uni project experiment at the same time haha. I've got access to a bunch of printers.

  10. #130
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    Got my bars and mudflaps painted today

    No pics of the bumpers, not at home yet, I wasn't around so apparently they were masked wrong and the white top doesn't go around the indicator as it should. Easy fix if I really want to - which I probably will, lol.

    Levin stickers on the freshly painted mud flaps - look good!
    Click image for larger version. 

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