1986 AE86 Trueno Notch

[AJPS]

glad to hear they worked well tally

they really make corollas better to drive

[Tally]

Found the culprit to my knocking issues

Someone was a tightass and replaced the drivers side only with a whiteline and now the passenger stock one has let go. Will replace both.

Just need to figure out the size of the sway bar. Apparently its an ARC swaybar and my crude measuring with a ruler is pointing to 24mm... always thought it looked too beefy for a stock item...

[Tally]

Ok so installed a CD player on weekend, not keeping memory so need to find constant power for the yellow wire. Will need to get a test light.

Replaced the sway bar D bushes tonight, they were infact 24mm, pain in the ass of a job to replace on the ground with two car jacks lmao. So sore at the moment. Greasy hands and uncomfortable lol.
Anyway didnt fix the knocking problem but there is a huge improvement in turn in, much more stable and controlable which is awesome.

So had a good look and looks like the passenger LCA bush is partly disintegrated. So will pick up some but ill have to take it somewhere as I dont have the tools required for that job unlike if I was back in Adelaide.

The knocking would only occur at certain speeds and if I put load on the passenger side by turning right. However now with the new superpro bushes it has become more apparent It will go away on deceleration and reoccur on acceleration. Looked at the strut and seems fine...

Going to do an AE82 Oil cooler upgrade this week or so for some added protection for when the weather heats up and also fit up my HKS gauges, just need some sensors and fittings and I should be good to go for my drive down to Adelaide.

[AJPS]

good to see progress mate

[Seventy]

Is it a front end knock? Going by those photos someones modded how your swaybar links mount and the lower mount to the lca looks to be solid, this lower link might be worn and loose?
Might be worth going back to standard swaybar links and lca's?
Just a thought?

[Tally]

Hey man thanks for the input! At the time I was thinking along those lines. But the rose joint links were super.

So I ended up changing the LCA bushes myself. Did the passenger side on Saturday and the drivers tonight. Check out pics below for my DIY install lol. Instead of paying $400 or so for somone to do it, $6.99 G clamp from supercheap and I was on my way

While I was there I checked the passenger side wheel bearing and it had heaps of play and sounded horrible. I tightened the nut on the stub axle a bit and the knocking noise subsided for a time but has returned a little bit.

Picked up some wheel bearing kits and will do them tomorrow hopefully. Got some new hose and fittings for my oil cooler and gauge install so should be sweet ill let you guys know how it turns out.

On Sunday I removed the aircon setup. Storing it if ever want to reinstall it then I can. Got a shorter powersteering belt and I was set. Saved a bit of weight and starts up quicker and seems to have a bit more poke.

Ahhh the life and times of corollas, so many cuts, bruises and hands covered in grease over these things. But I enjoy working on them and thats the main thing.

[Tally]

Ok so as usual things don't always work in you favour when working on cars. Tonight I tackled the bearings and all looked well and good till I got to the passenger side.

I'll let the pics do the talking but its pretty stuffed. Where the large racer sits, there was obviously an issue before it cracked because I think I heard it crack on the way home monday night. That was after I tightened the hub on Saturday. Prob should have not done that as looks like put extra load on the already stuffed bearing causing the racer to crack and groove the mounting face where it sits in the hub. This has made the new race go in very easily and has lots of play which is just as dangerous.

Had to do some improvising as the old bearing coller was stuck on good but came off after some heat and few taps.

In the pics u can see the cracked race and also the metal shavings from the hub on the stub axle

Noticed that there was hardly any grease used in either side hub assembly so I made sure to put plenty of grease and didnt tighten them up too much when I put them back together.

Put the passenger hub back on with new bearing, should be ok as it is until find a pair of hubs.

Ive got those hubs that slide86 made. One think i noticed was that on both sides the dust seal and large bearing remained on the stub axle when i pulled the hubs off. Definitely not normal....

[Tally]

Ok so tracked down a complete set of struts today and tonight I went ahead at changing the hubs over, slow and painful job but had to be done. I swapped the new bearings over from the old hubs to the new ones.

Pro is that I now how a good set of hubs and drives straight and smooth with no noise and new bearings.

Cons is that ive lost the 10mm track increase that I had with the other hubs aswell as the longer wheel studs.

Found out ive got project mu discs and pads up front aswell as rear which is a bonus

Didn't get time to do oil cooler install, by time I was done doing the hub & bearing swap I was naccerd.

[Tally]

Ok so bit of an update,

Day after I changed the hubs I drove down to Adelaide for a holiday, 1400kms in 17.5hrs without a hitch.

While I was down there I installed my HKS gauges, Oil Pressure, Water Temp and Fuel pressure. Also installed Genuine SARD fuel pressure regulator. Fitted it up with some braided hose and combination of aeroflow and superflow fittings. Also installed Cusco Brake Master Cylinder Stopper.

So was time to journey back home over the weekend and was awesome with the gauges.

Water temp stayed at a constant 80 degrees at 110km/h and only fluctuated 5 degrees to 85 degrees when going 100km/h

Oil Pressure stayed at a constant 4.5 kg/cm2 (64psi) when cruising and Fuel pressure stayed at a constant 2.04 kg/cm2 (29psi) when cruising.

I backed off the fuel pressure with the reg to 29psi to see if I could save some fuel. Ended up getting close to 570km to a 35L tank which is around 6.14 L/100Km

From my understanding stock fuel pressure is around 34psi

Also GPS speed was 100km/h when speedo is at 110km/h so confirmed my thoughts that reads 10km/h faster.

Also found that engine runs smoother on Caltex Vortex compared to BP Ultimate.

Really want to put in a 3.9 ratio diff if can find one.

Decided will go turbo, either turbo stock bigport or get a 4agze. I dont want to muck around too much with conversions though, I read that you can turbo a bigport using stock ECU or a 4agze ECU, a 1jZ/3SGTE/4EFTE Map sensor so can sense boost pressure and using 4agze injectors. and also use a e-manage to tweak.

Looking at ECU options at the moment as that is the biggest hurdle... Greddy E-manage seems decent as a piggyback

Few pics from drags:

[AJPS]

6.1 litres is good!