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Thread: The nuts and bolts of it - surface rust removal from nuts and bolts

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    Senior Member jamiesbrain's Avatar
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    Default The nuts and bolts of it - surface rust removal from nuts and bolts

    Cleaning up different bits in the engine bay and have a few nut heads and bolts that have surface rust.
    I don't see the point in buying new ones when the existing can be cleaned up to look as new.

    Looking to see who has what tips on cleaning them up (with what) and keeping them rust free.

    Been you tubing it and found some stuff where people are using apple cider vinegar which looks to get rid of the rust which it does well.
    The issue that has many solutions (not sure which are long lasting and not) is coating post rust removal to prevent further surface rust and keep them in good condition.

    Thoughts, ideas etc?
    Some have used WD40 and the like, others clear coat or two and some just paint them.
    I want to keep the metal finish and not so much keen on painting a colour.

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    Senior Member Hen may possibly be a nut's Avatar
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    Many years ago a friend had a bunch of parts electroplated. They came back looking brand spanking new with the "factory" yellowish coating.

    I'm not 100% sure what the process was or what it cost, but if you want total factory/showcar finish it may be worth looking into.

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    Veteran McLEVIN's Avatar
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    Zinc plating....its what the irish lads are doing when they are restoring their cars back to factory
    MOPAR or no car!

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    Member smackdown.exe's Avatar
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    Ive had great luck with putting bolts in the sink covered in coke and vinegar or pepsi and vinegar mix 50/50 over night. Have cleaned up some pretty bad bolts, And come up looking perfect with a very fine brush when taken out of the mix

    also a great at unsticking stuck nuts

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    Member smackdown.exe's Avatar
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    Also to prevent i then reinstall and spray some crc5.56 on a rag and wipe over the head or wherever i dont want to rust. Haven't had a problem yet

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    Wire wheel to clean up and then clear it or plate it. Plating is expensive though

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    The other option is to ceramic coat them. Not cheap to do but they turn out mint and will last ages. Coating is also only microns thick so doesn't interfere with thread engagement.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    4agte finally finished. 252rwkw with more to come

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    Senior Member jamiesbrain's Avatar
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    Thanks guys,

    I had looked at the Ceramic coating side but might also look at the electro and zinc options.


    This gives me some more direction to look into a few options and costs.
    Cheers!

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    Senior Member jamiesbrain's Avatar
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    Can I add it is also that moment you are cleaning up your engine bay and think, what if I just pull the engine out and do a proper tidy up, but then maybe I should clean up some of the engine bay paint....hmmm if I am doing that maybe get the old girl rubbed back and respray...hell ground up rebuild. haha sanity prevailed and I am back to just doing nuts, bolts and screws for the minute.

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    Veteran johl's Avatar
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    haha that is how it usually starts and before you know it your car has been in pieces for 3 years
    stroked 2L ca18-ae86 in the build...eta xmas 2012?

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