55 profile.. yeah i def wouldnt be trying it myself lol im hopeless with a welder, a guy i kno would be doing it, he's done plenty of guard flaring ect befor so i guess ill see what he has to say bout it when i drop it off first i guess.
it wont even roll with the 6.5's on the rear i gotta put my 14x5 stockish kinda wheels on to move it
just bash that inner lip in and they will fit
or if they are rubbing then you can do it with a poll. heat it up, put the pole in there and drive it forward and back a few times.
if you want wheels that stick out like bretts do your gonna need atleast 9j wheels.
iv got 8j -13 on the front with sigmas and it still doesnt poke as much as that does
HAHAH I LOVE BOOST LOOSING!!
[QUOTE]iv done my research and welding the suspension solid seems the be the way to go for sliding purposes[/QUOTE]
i got s13 front sus (so does that 86) and im running the r31diff so i got bout 20-30mm extra track each side, and im hopefully gettin some 8s with neg offset soon.
I know that im definately not gonna have as much poke as the 86 as its running F-9.5's, R-10.5's but yeah..
and cant do the pole trick yet cos when i dropped it down n the wheels pushed on the guard it cracked right where the lip is which means theres bog there, i knew it had repairs from previous owner doin bin runs (holding onto a garbage bin along side the car then letting it go) but i didnt know he had bogged it... thats why i was thinking maybe the sheet metal idea, or the bloke thats doin it rekns he'l be ablle to dolly it out n flare it out, i was thinking it might've been better if they were raised abit to tho like that 86 has been, and i love the shape of his also...
still doubt they will be close to specs of bretts 86, u will probably just need to roll them a bit, plus neg camber @ front will help clear guard, then u reach castor problems
no in a ke70 there is no chance of going that low.
the rear doors get in the way. i had my arches cut out for bolt on flares around the door, and it still hit the wheel a few times (6kg springs)
that is with reasonable offset. mine were the equlivant of 14x8-41
and i had about 50mm clearance under the door sils/rails
hit wheels were 9s on the front i think also
ok. brett doesn't have an account on the new forum and i don't think he really wants to, so...
brett did sheet metal work on outer & inner guards, tony finished them + painted car.
guards are folded metal with wire lip
rear arch is two inches higher, front is one inch.
C-pillar is notched, & rails flattened on the floorpan to allow diff to travel higher.
rim specs are roughly 15x10 on rear, 15x9/9.5 on front
the main problem of going that low is the diff hitting the floor & the rails. that and the fuel lines HAD to be routed through the cabin cause it was at risk.
car is not getting a re-work, but will be sold at a later date.
Last edited by kaibeecee; 10th July 2009 at 05:14 PM.
yeah i dont plan on makin my car that low but just thought my wheels might hit the guars at the hights its at now...
ohhh part out hey, hmm theres some things i like the look of on it eg wheels lol
forget it. the wheels are long gone.
dang that sucks, i wanted to get my longchamps widened but nowhere in adelaide does it...
talk to dimitri about the widening
he might be able to sort something for you
if your guards have been bogged you could try putting small vertical cuts up the guard and then flaring and fiberglassing it. there was a DIY thing on it on the old forums i think 70XIN wrote it
HAHAH I LOVE BOOST LOOSING!!
[QUOTE]iv done my research and welding the suspension solid seems the be the way to go for sliding purposes[/QUOTE]
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