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Thread: Battery Relocation.... circuit breaker size?

  1. #11
    Site Supporter Javal's Avatar
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    Very normal and not dodgy when done correctly. Many many modern cars have this setup.

    Either way is fine mate as long as they're done properly. Using the starter terminal as a common point will reduce the amount of cable required and could give a neater appearance depending on how you do it. All down to personal preference, I have 2 seperate cables for alternator and starter which join at the battery, however my starter motor is on the opposite side of the engine to the alternator, so I didn't really have a choice.
    You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?

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    Senior Member Futo_gt86's Avatar
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    OK, I'll consider it....as long as I can get it looking neat and all it might be the way to go.
    I have another question in reference to earths.
    The existing earth cable also ran to the starter, to a mounting bolt.
    This seems to be the only battery -ve earth point.
    I was thinking of ditching it for a series of 3 to 4 smaller cables.
    Battery to body (style side ute tub mounted on rubber blocks)
    Battery to body (Front cab also on rubber blocks)
    Body to gearbox
    Body to engine

    Yeah? or is there a reason why this was done with single cable?
    What would you do?

    Ali
    Last edited by Futo_gt86; 13th February 2016 at 05:02 PM.

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    Site Supporter Javal's Avatar
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    We'll anything you want to earth to all needs to get back to the battery eventually, but your plan sounds pretty solid. Just make sure the engine to body and the body to battery earths are nice heavy gauge stuff, as those will carry all the current for starting and charging. The others can be of a smaller gauge but still use decent gauge stuff, headlights / high beams / blower motors / big stereos etc are all high draw.
    You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?

  4. #14
    Senior Member Futo_gt86's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info Josho!
    Yep, just to clarify, 3 - 4 smaller length cables of made from 2 guage.

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    Site Supporter Javal's Avatar
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    I used the biggest stuff I could find (I think it might have even been 1 gauge? Maybe 2 gauge. Whatever the heaviest duty stuff Jaycar has) for the engine to body and body to battery. The gearbox to body earth was a factory one, which is really quite small. You won't need heavy stuff for your rear tub as all you'll really be running is the rear lights, but use big stuff for the cab-to-chassis, engine-to-chassis and chassis-to-battery.
    You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?

  6. #16
    Senior Member Futo_gt86's Avatar
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    I googled the hell out of this, but I was lost in the amazing amount of info and different ratings.

    I have used 25mm2 welding cable from battery to starter, its about a ~2m run (ute).
    The cable stated 230amp, but I'd reckon that would be maximum peak..
    How do I work out the "working" current / continuous rating for this size cable?

    One site stated 170A, but I don't know if this is correct?????

    Cheers,
    Ali

    EDIT:
    I rang battery world - guy stated 25mm2 is close to 3AWG and has maximum peak of 200 amp.
    He then said 190 Amp would be the safe working current...
    Last edited by Futo_gt86; 19th February 2016 at 12:55 PM. Reason: EDIT

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