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Thread: The Diary of my 86'.

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    Post The Diary of my 86'.


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    It was a mistake to sell my first Hachi although it was an sr5, with rear end gts conversion. Still 4ac engine tho'. So I set out for a new one. A DAILY DRIVER.


    Here's a few photos of the car when I first got it...2 months ago

    Home sweet home, with my new daily! Needs EXTERIOR, INTERIOR, WIRING work!4AG Baby! (SR5 GTS conversion)

    I'll post more pics later along w/ plans for the car. Nothing grand though.




    Here's more flicks of my new daily.

    Her name is "Delilah"

    (aka slimer, & thegreenteabagger)

    I know she needs TLC so please don't make her feel bad! she's a strong gurl, runs like a champ. motor was overhauled 6mnths ago.











    flourescent wire colors are for fog lights, fan , and winsheild wipers, the previous owner :crazy:







    Traded the TRD hatch wing Hatch w/ Mr. Akuma Dori for his stock hatch


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    also picked up some rims. wan-to-bee( drag fast forwards) ...I was inspired by A.D.D's Levin hatch and his digi cluster....SO SICK!!! if anyone needs a set contact me.

    GOING SATIN BLK SOON!






    HERE ARE MY WHEELS FRESHLY re-COATED!!







    OMG JUST BOUGHT A JDM ZENKI REAR BUMPE VERY CHEAP W/ BRACKETS!!!!

    it'll be here tonite




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    well here's another small update. I was kind of disappointed when I noticed this a week after buying the car.

    The car road well and even cornered respectfully well. It was not super bouncy, kinda firm. No big clunks on huge dips. So I felt it was ok. What lead to this inspection was a brake grunt ( cracked pads with 1mm thickness).

    When I pulled the wheels off this is what was found.



    (Removed caliper, brake line seen here)



    Until I can afford some tokico blues & springs, here's some shots of my hang time. ( all over M.J.)

    I definitely got some cleaning up to do. Feels like a mini-build already











    Here's a small update on what I've been doing. It's my first time working on a 86' corolla so I'm learning as I go.

    I decided to refresh & replace some parts while the car is down, since the suspension is so dangerous and I had a oil leak from the dizzy I haven't drove the car but twice. Seller - Home. Home - Shop =(

    Being a "Technician" ( nissan , but I drive Hondas) I decided to Rebuild my own dizzy w/ a new U-Seal!! << pain in the butt! Very hard to source, so I bought 4 J.I.C
    ( u seal out I'll update the finished unit later)




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    My old suspension, and brake setup dirty and an eyesore. ( moaned upon braking- pads cracked as well)





    The refreshend components. Calipers, backing plates & hub < not pictured.







    The replacement rotors & pads set, via 88! ( < shameless plug, sponsor me hahaha. bought them before I got the bad news...always happens this way LOL)





    All I await now is struts & springs.

    here's some updates on the car. It seems like it requires more work than I thought as I replace parts.

    Finished rebuilding the dizzy coated the VC's black w/ new seals & plugs...Sorry again I forgot to take pics, but it's 100% sealed & working fine. while I was replacing the VC gaskets I decided to do the cam seals also. I had spotted oil & derbis behind the rear sprocket cover.




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    I'm not a pro, this is my first time on a 4age. Easy engine to work on. So I used this tool. To accomplish this task it took me a total of 1hr including resetting the timing. so not too bad! here's the tool that made it all so simple.

    Timing is set @ 10 BTDC Idles @ 750. But the bad is I don't have the black DIAG. Box in my engine bay??? I guess the previous owner left that out during the swap =( Feels a little sluggish on accel, but I do have and exhaust leak. After i fix the exhaust I'll see how it runs, I may set it at 15 & 850.



    here's a pic of the brake parts touched up....





    I did the rears on car ( dont need those rotors anymore)


    Finally got to pick up some shocks. BNIB Tokico Blues 160.00 Got some new insulators. Thanx to my buddy Norman @ Colonial Honda in Glendale





    Installed w/ 5w20 to aide with heat transfer cleaned the casing a bit.



    ( tried to get part numbers for ref.



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    as requested! not to clear tho'.............still needs another good one I think!



    after the dirt in the background dried my boss had a porter clean it up, I felt kinda bad! :devil:


    NEW IMPROVED VID!!!
    ( by my standards at least!)

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KykMujGfEaU

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    Decided to trim black some parts today, the factory mirrors and front bumper! haven't insatlled my zenki F&R's yet I'll wait for awhile.

    ( I'll post pics of the rear painted later!)




















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    Picked up one of these for $200



    just got a new photo sent to me shot by my homie.................



    here's some updates

    "the Blast heard around the world

    well I knew I had an exhaust leak from the gasket area & b pipe section of my header/exhaust. I planned to fix it all when I had alot more loot to play with. Unfortunately it all deteriorated faster than I had planned.

    Last saturday I had went to a muffler shop to fix a broken exhasut hanger ( bad news), afetr work. It just seemed to have bothered me, the thought of my N1 can bouncing up & down while driving. Pet peeves I tell ys'. Anywho, While I was at the muffler shop I stated my thoughts to the welder on what type of setup I'd be interested in doing soon or down the road, whichever sounds best.While underneath the car we went over pros & cans admiring the previos owners 1 PIECE EXHAUST SYSTEM. He & I shot the bull for a while throwing out some prices and ideas. After getting the quick tack weld done, I told him I'd return next week to get some work done. he explained to me how over rigid my current exhaust hangers were, and what he'd use etc. so I left jazzed about my new 3hp upgrade in the works.

    So w/ my window dropped, sitting flush to the door line, arm dangling out the window, and my 4age barreling down the road at 85mph, I cruised home with a feeling of relief. unbeknown to me the crucial phase of catastrophic failure was happening as I drove home.

    Almost home now, smiling, my mind at ease. Then just as I reached the 2nd to last right hand turn before my drive way, I hear this extremely loud open header noise - which brought on my sigh of "oh explicit". I knew that instant that the dangling exhaust was the glue to my flex-less exhaust sys.

    dangerously I drove it back to work the following monday & went to town w/ my tools & a cut off wheel.











    My new plans will include ( further pushing back my upgrade cooling system)

    A cheap header obx, mimo, tsudo
    4-6 flanges, making it a bolt on exh.
    Flex pipe
    150-250 2 1/4-2.5" manderal bent piping (trying to source titanium piping from a friend)
    NEW o2 Sensor
    super secret muffler

    Maybe:

    Hi-flow cat
    10-14" resonator ( n1 tooooooooo LOUD!! )

    here's one from my cache

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    got my new extractors, if you need some I get them only 6 left TRD/OBX/TSUDO AE86 4-1 Header today!! for a damn good price. I can't wait for the install. I'll post a review. I gotta save for a new quiter muffler and new piping. about 150 more, so hopefully in two weeks. So far I'm impressed with it! First thing I noticed was the good welds. I hope they're strong.
















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    here it is!!


    MY TRD/OBX.TSUDO STYLE header Write-Up/Install


    Well guys I started the install of my header late yesterday, just before I got off work. I couldn't wait. I had to special order new Exh. Mani studs & lock nut from Toyota, that arrived just moments before I was going to leave. As you all know I have no exhaust pipe. So I'll begin at the header installation.

    Part #'s we all know or should know the QTY. is 5





    Step 1:

    I cannot speak for all, but I feel this will be mandatory. You will need to check all weld-on bungs, and or merges/collectors!! I reccomend you clean and De-burr areas pictured. ( EGR port/ o2 sensor bung.)

    EGR


    o2


    Inspection of collectors




    Once everything is within your liking, proceed to step 2 of install. If you've bought new studs also proceed to 1a.

    Step 1a: No pix.

    If you do not have, I reccomend you buy or borrow a cheap tap & die set.
    - Thread or Chase each Exhaust manifold w/ the 10 x1.25 tap.
    - Clean tapped hole w/ brake or parts cleaner.
    - Apply small amount of anti-seize to new Exh. manifold stud ends ( that threads into the head )
    - Install stud w/ a GOOD hand-snug ( if you have girlie grip, prepare for a long day! hehe j/k try your best ).


    Step 2:

    Next you will be installing the Exhaust Manifold Gasket ( supplied w/ header ) Here I removed the dizzy, my preference only.
    - I took the liberty to clean w/ a toothbrush sized wire brush around the Gasket/Header mounting locations.
    - If you choose to remove the dizzy, mark dizzy location, and be very gentle, trying not to turn gear upon removal. you will upset ignition timing, either way a small adjustment will be needed upon re-install.
    - Just slide the new gasket on



    - In this pic below you may have noticed stud(s) removed. I've heard stories of people. installing their aftermarket headers and having install troubles were the flanges have issues w/ headstuds in. So I tested this header w/ each location problem.
    A: Center Hole/Bolt - Removed then re-installed, to test location B
    B: Outer Left Bolt Beneath Dizzy - Removed then re-installed, to test location C
    C: Outer Right Bolt, closest to firewall - Removed then re-installed - header Installed w/ all 5 bolts in head.

    Note:
    - With all headstuds in the header did require a slight rock side-to-side motion. No damage to studs occured.
    - Header fit snug ( like Airmax 92's)
    - Some flanges may have a different clearences, and ea. car is different. if you experience any difficulty upon install try to remove the stud in the problem area, or dremel the clearence needed at the flange. <- not endorsed or reccomend. Last resort if all else has failed.





    Step 3:

    This is a picture showing you the proper install postion to clear the rack column
    - Turn you header until the flange points upwards towards you
    - Slowly lower your header paying attention so you don't bind anywhere and force header in, damaging any other components.


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