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Thread: 4AGE 20v no idle

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    Default 4AGE 20v no idle


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    Itís stock silvertop. Turns on and runs for a second then dies. It will stay on if I accelerate it a bit but as soon as I let off throttle dies. I disconnect the afm and it idles perfect. The afm is new and the tps is new. I suspect vacuum leak. I deleted the throttle opener thing and I also deleted the metal vacuum lines underneath the itbs as well as the canister evap and all that. I donít think itís necesarry. I cleaned the iscv aswell. Anyone shed some light on how I have to route the vacuum lines with all that stuff deleted?

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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexFourTwenty View Post
    Itís stock silvertop. Turns on and runs for a second then dies. It will stay on if I accelerate it a bit but as soon as I let off throttle dies. I disconnect the afm and it idles perfect. The afm is new and the tps is new. I suspect vacuum leak. I deleted the throttle opener thing and I also deleted the metal vacuum lines underneath the itbs as well as the canister evap and all that. I donít think itís necesarry. I cleaned the iscv aswell. Anyone shed some light on how I have to route the vacuum lines with all that stuff deleted?
    How much do you have to rev it up to keep it running? Maybe just adjust your idle up?
    The vacuum pipes underneath are attached to an electronic idle control so that's probably your problem..

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by burcoty View Post
    How much do you have to rev it up to keep it running? Maybe just adjust your idle up?
    The vacuum pipes underneath are attached to an electronic idle control so that's probably your problem..

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    Well itís just a bit rev to keep it up. My cluster isnít working but Iíd say maybe quarter throttle? If youíre talking about the iscv or icv it only has a connector and 2pipes one to suck air and one that goes to the vacuum rail. Not the one I took off. Iíve heard you can delete the metal vacuum lines under itbs and you can also delete the throttle stop since itís only for starting.

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    The throttle stop is called a dashpot and its benficial to the engine making it smoother as you go on and off throttle by slowing the close at that last point so you dont just lose all your air instantly. You can do this effect digitally with an idle controller on an aftermarket ecu. It should have a one way valve so it retains vacuum. If the valve is missing it can malfunction or not work. It needs a vac reference.

    If you removed the vac lines, that's pretty normal. You need to make sure the port at throttle 1 is closed, and number 4 goes to the booster. Cap the 4 nipples under the itbs that point down.

    Have you checked using the ae101 levin manual that the itbs havent been molested in their adjustment? You need vacuum gauges to see if they sync. You can sometimes find a vac leak by spraying a fine mist of water all over the inlet while running and seeing where it stumbles.

    The iscv connects as you say to the big port on top of the vacuum manifold on top of the motor, not the metal underneath. From memory that metal just extends the fuel lines and the vac lines.






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    Quote Originally Posted by LittleRedSpirit View Post
    The throttle stop is called a dashpot and its benficial to the engine making it smoother as you go on and off throttle by slowing the close at that last point so you dont just lose all your air instantly. You can do this effect digitally with an idle controller on an aftermarket ecu. It should have a one way valve so it retains vacuum. If the valve is missing it can malfunction or not work. It needs a vac reference.

    If you removed the vac lines, that's pretty normal. You need to make sure the port at throttle 1 is closed, and number 4 goes to the booster. Cap the 4 nipples under the itbs that point down.

    Have you checked using the ae101 levin manual that the itbs havent been molested in their adjustment? You need vacuum gauges to see if they sync. You can sometimes find a vac leak by spraying a fine mist of water all over the inlet while running and seeing where it stumbles.

    The iscv connects as you say to the big port on top of the vacuum manifold on top of the motor, not the metal underneath. From memory that metal just extends the fuel lines and the vac lines.
    Thanks for the insight red, I shall install the dashpot back on. I already have port 1 closed and the ones under itbs looped. The port 4 going to booster. Since the dashpot connects to the metal lines I removed, where can I get vacuum from? Im not sure if the itbs are up to factory spec. But since it runs fine with the afm disconnected Iím guessing itís fine. Iíll update once I install the dashpot back on. Also the afm connector is only using 5 of the 7 wires, the last 2 are cut. Can this be mundo problem?

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    Alright I found out in order to keep the engine running I have to block the iscv. Done deal. I also installed the throttle stop aka dashpot just to have something for the throttle to sit on and I adjusted the throttle screw to sit a bit higher. I didnít even need to connect the dashpot. So happy o figured it out. Lol I know itís not the right way but this car isnít built the right way so thatís good enough for me. It idles good has good power with the afm connected. Happy stoner thanks for everyoneís help and inputs. Really appreciate it.

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