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Thread: Need help with 4A-GE running issue, please

  1. #1
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    Default Need help with 4A-GE running issue, please


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    I've only owned my car a few months. (A 1981 Toyota Starlet with a 4A-Ge swap)
    I had to replace the transmission, all the brakes including the almost impossible to find brake booster, etc. It ALWAYS started and idled very high. But otherwise ran well. I figured it was an issue with the coolant controlled idle circuit....
    A few days ago, I replaced all of the belts and hoses. I found a LOT of rusty sludge in the idle control lines and the idle control itself. I cleaned it out. But upon replacing the coolant and bleeding the system, The car now surges at idle and will not rev up. The speed pulsates up and down and pops and sputters if you give it any throttle at all.
    I have just ordered an idle control block off plate to remedy my original issue of very high idle and now surging idle. My question is, would/could that circuit also make the car not want to rev? Quite simply, I didn't mess with anything else. It ran well.....I replaced the hoses, coolant and the alternator belt and now it doesn't want to run well. I didn't mess with the timing or touch anything electronic.
    Thank you!!
    Last edited by ZEROPILOT; 2nd February 2018 at 09:15 PM.

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    Nevermind
    Last edited by burcoty; 3rd February 2018 at 12:54 AM.

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    My guess is that you have loosen up rust and it is now lodged in the wax-stat not allowing it to close. You have to remove the wax-stat and blow out the rust with compressed air. While you have the wax-stat off. I would also soak the wax-stat in carb cleaner for a couple hours and try to remove the vanish around the spool valve. Then blow it out or use spray carb cleaner to flush out the build up. This cleaning should reduce your idle speed. If you feel adventurous, go to the club4ag forum search wax-stat, for how to dis-assemble the wax-stat and adjust it with a home made tool. But be warned that the pins on the adjust tool need to be on the short side to actually work. Davew7

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    Would a leak or malfunction in this system also cause poor running in general?
    The engine now sputters and hunts up and down while trying to rev the engine.
    I've ordered an idle control delete plate. I live in Florida. Cold starts aren't a big issue here.
    Since i didn't touch ANYTHING else, I'm assuming that the whole thing is trapped air. Especially after removing the control valve and seeing the big, honking hole that lets the engine gulp air when that pellet assembly is stuck open.............
    Last edited by ZEROPILOT; 3rd February 2018 at 03:51 AM.

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    Default

    Thanks

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    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    If you had the throttle body and or manifold off you might have a split gasket and created a vacuum leak that would cause this issue. Erratic things are usually caused by erratic situations, like a vacuum leak that gets worse as the demand for air gets greater.






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    I've got to say that I like your logic!
    However, at that time, all I'd done was replace the radiator hoses.
    It's apart now and I'm using new gaskets for the re install. However, it'll be a week before I get the gaskets and the block off plate.
    This is the car. BTW
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  • #8
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    I can't easily post pictures. Sorry.

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    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Car looks sweet dude.






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