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Thread: HARD brake pedal question

  1. #11
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Could also be caliper related, ae86 manual suggests a stuck piston, the way to see would be drive it and after it happens for a bit stop and see which brakes are hot.






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    I did that with a laser thermometer and all of the brakes were hot. None remarkably more than the others, rotors and drums on each side.
    Also, I've since replaced the calipers and rear brake wheel cylinders.

  • #13
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    When you rebuild the drums its possible to put the adjuster in backwards and create a system where the drums tighten and not retract with every use. But that would just drag the rears.

    Bloody strange. I think on drum cars they proportioning valve is more of a pressure limiting valve, it should not be able to create the problems you are experiencing.






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    Well. The new master that came is completely WRONG!
    SO, I'll have to wait and see....
    I've been looking at the adjustment on my old booster. It is adjustable. But looks like a real P.I.T.A.
    Nice information about the proportioning valve not causing symptoms like I have. I wont me so with it then.
    Last edited by ZEROPILOT; 9th July 2018 at 08:36 PM.

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    It will be the brake pedal freeplay adjustment. If there is not a few mm freeplay then the brakes will lock on after driving due to the fluid getting warmer after a few stops and expanding. Have had this happen to me before. add another 1 or 2mm to the pedal freeplay and try again.
    RT142 Estate.

    AJPS.

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    I just got the new parts.
    When I placed the "OLD" master and booster together, outside of the car, I could see that when i pushed the master up flush with the booster, the pedal rod pushed back just a hair....So NO free play and some drag.
    Same with the new parts. So I was able to adjust the rod on the booster before I assembled the master for a few MM of free play.
    It's all assembled, but it's been too hot outside to finish the project. Maybe i'll get it bled out today.
    I understand about the brakes dragging. But would that also make for a hard pedal?
    I have good vacuum. I started the engine and ran it for a minute or two. Then about half an hour later, yanked off the vacuum tube from the booster and I heard a WOOSH. Vacuum was still there.

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    I replaced the master with another rebuilt one and I did another complete brake bleeding of all fluid. I backed off the booster push rod one full turn and made a tiny bit of free play. Re-assembled everything and......Hard brakes still!I replaced the booster vacuum line with more reinforced vacuum tubing, thinking that the line might be sucking in, and I tested the manifold vacuum at the manifold and the booster. Almost 18.The last thing I did out of despiration was to blow air into the vacuum port of the booster instead of vacuum (something sticking?) and shot some WD40 into the port as well.Now the booster works....just a little. But enough to tell me that my rebuilt booster sucks!

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