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Thread: JZX110 1jz VVTI wiring help!!

  1. #1
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    Default JZX110 1jz VVTI wiring help!!


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    Hi All,

    I have an MX83 Toyota Cressida with a newly install JZX110 1JZ vvti and I am having major troubles trying to figure out how to wire the thing up.

    I have spent hours trawling through the internet looking at wiring diagrams but just can't seem to understand it.

    Any he would be greatly appreciated, thank you

  • #2
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    i have done the jzs171 into the mx83, it wasn't difficult. What are you stuck with? Some simple pointers are...

    Power the ECU first, constant power and accessories power to the ECU. The ecu then powers the main relay trigger, which gives the ISCV power long enough so it can return to the home position. The BM Pin also needs constant power, this is to power the throttle body.

    The Main relay powers the injectors and coils + iscv + heated 02 sensor.

    Before advising anyone to attempt to wire a car themselves, i ask the question what is a continuity test, and how to relays work. How do you negative switch a relay and what is the difference between an ECU input and output?

    If you can't answer those, then please save yourself a headache and pay someone to do it.
    Ae86 Drivingclub - Toyota AE86 Car Club where AE86 | KE70 | Toyota 86 / GT86 | Subaru BRZ | Scion FRS owners

  • #3
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    The first thing you need to know is the ECU mostly switches to earth. In that when it wants something to happen, like the check engine light for instance. Via a transistor start providing an earth to the pin to turn the globe on and to turn it off it will remove it. The fuel pump is operated this way as well.

    Something the ECU tells the car or operates a relay is an OUTPUT. Something you provide to the ecu is an INPUT. The starter signal is a 12v input the ecu is expecting so it can retard the timing etc when you are trying to start the car.


    Powering the ECU..



    Plug E is what you need

    BM - 12v constant power ~20 amp fuse - the cressy won't have this by default i ran a wire to the battery like you would for an amplifier.
    IGNSW - Switched ignition power
    +B, +B2 - 12v ignition that MUST come from MRELAY
    MRELAY - IS 12v OUTPUT from the ECU that triggers the MRELAY
    W - Is the earth supply to the check engine light ( get a globe 12v one side and hook the earth to the W)
    FC - Is the earth supply to your Fuel pump relay.

    This seams like allot of effort, 12v accessories power in, to get 12v out to trigger a relay. Why not just power the mrelay with accessories power you may ask?

    Do NOT do this, as the ISCV is instructed to return to the home position when turning off the car. If you don't allow the 10 seconds or so after you stop the car for the relay to be powered, you will find the car doesn't idle correctly and runs like arse.

    DASH Outputs

    Plug C - OIL is your oil pressure switch, it provides earth to the light on the dash

    Plug D - STA (needs 12v input when you are starting the car)
    STP - is a 12v input to let the car know you have your foot on the break
    Pins 3,D,R,P - Are gear indicators for the dash

    Plug B - L, 2 Are gear indicators for the dash. I can't remember if these are 12v outputs or earths.

    I also advise you to learn how to de-pin and repin the connectors. And if you are genuinely keen on learning this wiring properly, google each of the codes in the diagram and start understanding what they do. And also look up the sensors and how they work.

    #10 for instance is cyclinder 1 injector driver, to inject fuel it provides the earth. IGT - ignition trigger for the ignitor. These wires you don't need to touch at all, but it is good to know how they work and what they do. knk1 is the 1st knock sensor.
    Last edited by Matt; 17th December 2018 at 06:45 AM.
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    Hi Matt,

    Thanks heaps for the info.

    Will continue to play around with it and let you know if I run into any more issues.

    Cheers,
    Ethan.

  • #5
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    Hey Matt,

    Cheers for the help.

    Bit of a late update, but I think I have most of the wiring sorted now (unable to test as I'm waiting for engine mounts to arrive).
    Will let you know how I go with starting it once it's mounted.

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