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Thread: Strong Head/Block combo

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    Default Strong Head/Block combo


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    hey this has most likely been answered before but what is the strongest head/block combo in the 4age series
    i was thinking of going slivertop head with blacktop quads and a agze bottom end???? any good or should i just stick with a whole slivertop 20v

    the motor is going to get a full rebuild before it gets put into the car...talking full forged rods, high comp pistons,cams, valves etc..
    would the block really matter in terms that im doing a full rebuild and i shouldnt worry about what block to use??

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    Senior Member Simon-KE70's Avatar
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    turbo or NA?

    power expectations?

    the head strength isnt really an issue here... they are all "strong" and cope well with NA or forced induction duties... the blocks however differ with the 20V blocks being towards the lighter rotating bottom ends for higher revs yet more then enough strength for stockish duties... wwhere as the 4agze has forged pistons and rods and will handle boost from either SC or turbo.

    so its all relevant... no point in going the GZE bottom end cause its the strongest if your planning on staying NA

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    its going to be a na build
    power figures dont really concern me but im hoping for it to handle( as best it can ) a 10000 rpm rev limit

    im decided im going to go with the 20v head cause it allows better breathing for the engine

    so your saying i should use the agze bottom end to cope with these amount of revs or should i just stick to the 20v cause im not going turbo??

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    Senior Member Simon-KE70's Avatar
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    power figures dont concern you but yet you want to swing it to 10K revs.... is there any reason for that?

    if your building NA motor, pick a power figure and then get the parts to suit then go from there dude....

    no point in saying "i want it to do 10,ooo rpm but i dont care how much power it makes"

    edit: this post may sound consending but the reality is you need to pick ur parts wisely. for those revs you're going to need BIG bucks spent on the bottom end... maybe rethink your goals a little.

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    dont take this the wrong way. but from what youve posted already, you dont seem to have an understanding of what youre trying to do/engines in general.

    no 4age engine can do 10000 rpm reliably, for any sustained period, without an full after market rotating assembly (crank rods pistons ect) and a dry sump oiling system. this is fact. if this doesnt scare you off, then you also need to consider, even if you do it all yourself, your engine is going to cost you well over $10 000.

    thing is though, if you dont have lofty power goals, there is no reason to rev the engine this hard anyway. i know its fun, and if it were cheap to build an engine that could do it, then you would. but its just not.

    having said all that. any engine 4age from small port (ae93 sx) onwards (silver or black top) is pretty happy to live at 8000 rpm without any mods. as long as its in ok condition. youll be surprised, even 8000 rpm is pretty fun.

    edit.. simon, pretty much put it in not so many words.
    Last edited by slydar; 7th January 2009 at 06:24 PM.

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    Senior Member lo_rolla's Avatar
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    Forged pistons and rods, eh?

    1. All rods are forged.
    2. I'm sure 70XIN had a gze piston tested, and it's hyperutectic, not forged. I myself haven't had one to look at.

    I would be looking at Silvertop block and crank (Knife edged, heat treated and polished) (or billet crank if you got a spare $5000+ on top of the rest of the gear) H beam or Billet conrods, Forged pistons 11.5:1 or higher, 300+ degree cams with 10.5mm+ lift, aftermarket valve springs, titanium retainers and collets, Yaris or TODA shim under buckets, oversize valves 1mm+, ported polish head, cam gears, metal head gasket, ARP head studs, main studs, flywheel bolts, lightened flywheel, modified oil pump for more oil pressure, modified sump and pick up (or dry sump), injectors 300cc+, fuel pump and maybe surge tank etc (or fuel pump plus TODA sports injection kit), fully programmable ecu, after market bearings...

    Do some maths.

    I'm doing that, but I'm in a situation where that will cost me half what it will cost you..

    Just get a gze and turbo it and save yourself 10k.

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    i know someone who built a 10k revving 4age, he spent a lot of money, really if there is no reason for it apart form the fact you can say that you have a 4age that revs to 10k i wouldn't bother

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    Junior Member Killswitch's Avatar
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    What do you want from the car when its finished?

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    toymods is the answer to the gze piston question, they are not fordged, but pressure cast (hyperutectic)

    on another note, 30psi4agte is a testament to the strength of the gze internals...


    Pick a power figure and work for that.... you dont pick a RPM limit and build a motor purely on that...

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    Late model (smallport 7 rib etc) bottom end and bigport head is my recommendation if your trying to stay on a budget and keep it reliable.

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