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Thread: 4age - dry sump conversion

  1. #1
    Veteran starni_boy's Avatar
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    Default 4age - dry sump conversion


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    Basically I'm at the point where I'm building my car the way I want it, disregarding costs and all that jazz.

    Engine will be a fully built 20v 7age. I'm trying to get through my head whether to baffle the stock sump, or run a dry sump setup. I know that dry sump is a lot of work, but I really couldn't care less.

    I want reliability (if there is a such thing from a built motor) from my engine which will be revved pretty hard (9000 rpm odd), and even a performance increase if possible. I'm just not sure which way to go.

    Any help is appreciated.

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    I cant say i've ever priced up a dry-sump setup .. but i'm fairly sure it alone will be more expensive than your entire engine setup?

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    Veteran biggo's Avatar
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    accusump?
    85' JDM TA63 GTTR sedan - Godlike
    89' JDM GZ20 Soarer - 1jz + R154 bus

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    Senior Member Hen may possibly be a nut's Avatar
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    I am a big fan of the stock 4A oil setup. They are very hard to kill from lack of oiling. I lost count of the number of times I came off track at the end of a drift night with oil right off the bottom of the dipstick, and yet never had any problems. My motor lasted three years and died a totally unrelated death (crank snapped behind timing pulley).

    Hen

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    User fantapants's Avatar
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    there is a thread floating around on toymods i believe for a tidy relatively cheap and uncomplicated dry sump specially for the 4a.... assume it would be applicable to the 7a

    dry sump can be better in the long run, but creates more service points... ppoints where shit can just gremlin on you.

    id love on just to have one.... and would give me a chunk of room
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    increasing the size/capacity of the standard wet sump wont give any power increase, obviously a dry sump set-up will. i believe increases are 5~10hp on a highly tuned motor which is a fair bit really.

    what is your actual question?

    got some specs of the rest of the motor? what block, crank rods are you using? 7afe based or stroked 4ag? if i wanted to go for a larger capacity build id be using a CYB stroker kit personally

  • #7
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    u will pay a few thousand for the dry sump setup, and im pretty sure u may have to look outside australia for it, i know someone whos done it before, i think they got some bits from NZ and some from the states, but be prepaired to pay atleast 4 K , the pumps are like 2 K on their own. i can find out for sure if u want.

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    Veteran starni_boy's Avatar
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    There are no specific engine specs at the moment. Just idea's building in my head and I really want to figure out what I'm going to do in this regard, and also just trying to make a discussion on what people's idea's are on this topic.

    Didn't think that the pumps would be that expensive on their own! F*ck that!

  • #9
    Veteran biggo's Avatar
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    Yair they arnt cheap.

    I still reckon accusump if you have doubts about reliablity. They can be had for around $200-300 for a cheapy
    85' JDM TA63 GTTR sedan - Godlike
    89' JDM GZ20 Soarer - 1jz + R154 bus

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    Veteran DAMO46's Avatar
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    when i wanted to use a dry sump setup from the fella that builds 7age strokers and the best clubmans Australia has to offer.

    Do you really need a dry sump setup? The PRB sump has been proven on the race track in cars pulling up to 2G corning forces and has passed the Eastern creek turn 1 test. For some reason the long left hander at eastern creek is an oil surge engine killer. The only question is whether there is room for the wider sump in your chassis. If you are running street legal tyres you don't really need dry sumping,

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