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Thread: Silvertop 20v vacuum/fuel hose connections??

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    Senior Member dtour's Avatar
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    Question Silvertop 20v vacuum/fuel hose connections??


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    Hey im doing a 20v conversion into my ae86.
    i am using the RS Chita water kit, adaptronic, map sensor usual shit.
    before i go messing around with connections i would like to know what they are for. ie. which is fuel in, return, vacuum hoses and so on.
    also what should i do with the idle control thingy? <- gone blank
    here is a pic so u know what the hell i am on about



    thanks heaps!
    Jon

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    Veteran slide86's Avatar
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    allow me to post some awesome info after ive had tea

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    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Its a bit confusing when you first look at that mess of hoses but if you strip it away and trace the hoses and think for a while, you can work it out.

    You will find the fuel return comes from the fuel reg at the front of the rail, it also has a little vaccuum hose to the reg part on top.

    The fuel feed is to the other end of the fuel rail, you cant miss it.

    There is a large vaccuum port at either end of the throttles. Delete the front one with the right length of bolt and a sealing washer, then connect the rear facing one to the brake booster via a one way valve to keep the vaccuum to the booster.

    The throttle rest again has a small pressure reg that must be reconnected or it will idle high, also the vapour purge solenoid is under there, but Id just relocate it to the body somewhere and run hoses to the manifold and the charcoal cannister.

    Then it looks tidy as and you save a couple of kgs of weight. you can fit a plastic charcoal cannister from a later model car, like a mazda or a kia, which is removable on a slide bracket and is way lighter. They also bolt in on a single 10mm bolt so you can locate it more rearward to help with weight distribution, and bin the ugly old fashioned oversized ke charcoal can.

    There is a medium sized vaccuum hose on to of the itb manifold that should go to the map sensor, as it gives a nice balance of the vaccuum on all the ports.

    There is also an idle control valve under the fuel feed, which you can just leave there, as it defaults to half open. Best practice would be to connect it, but its 4 wires and would be a pain compared to most of them to control id say. Apparently a ford icv is easier and only 2 wires? Perhaps connect one of those. It really just allows the right amount of air to enter the motor once the throttle are shut to maintain a good low and innofensive idle. I quickly got used to mine idling at 1600 revs. A good idea might be to put a little filter on it so it cant suck dirty air into your ports. I never did that, but I will when the motor goes into another car.

    There is a top cover vent on the back of the head, Id suggest connecting that and the dipstick to a catch can that breathes through a filter to the atmosphere. That way it cant suck dirty air, and you have no dodgy places to pump out oil if you roll the car. i had a cams legal 2 litre can that i bought from repco and mounted where the charcoal cannister used tio live.

    Hope this helps!
    Last edited by LittleRedSpirit; 18th August 2009 at 08:41 PM.






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    Matt your a legend, just saved me asking basically what 'dtour' just did....... I'm sure something else will confuse me, but I will mention it when I have read through this again properly.....

    Oh yeah I have a nifty way (or so i think) of mounting the ICSV and Purge? valve, well in my application, I'll upload some picks shortly
    ------------------>>>Need something welded locally??? Hit me up, I may just be able to help<<<------------------

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    goes something like this..... (using a factory rwd water/cooling setup)

    Using the only one of the throttle supports mounted on the second last TB.
    moved the ICSV forward and down so its held in place by the top bolt hole to the head... The the purge valve is mounted on the support.
    Photo says it all really...
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    ------------------>>>Need something welded locally??? Hit me up, I may just be able to help<<<------------------

    BENT MECHANIX - Garage 20:

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    Senior Member dtour's Avatar
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    Slide86: still having tea?

    LittleRedSpirit: will have to go down and have a look to wrap my head around it...

    dont be shy posting the more information that i get that matches makes me feel better

    anyone know where i can get the connector for th ICSV mine is missing same with the vvt and water temp sensor?

    Jon

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    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    If you can find out the part number you can buy the connector new, I have a list of all the part numbers on a 20v loom, just not this one since its not on my loom.

    Any questions feel free to ask, there are some good photos, all depicting ae111 itbs on this page I made a while back. I think all the hoses are much the same either way... I didnt use rs chita kit, I used the Yager fitting which meant I had to remove the metal tubes under the throttles. All they did was add weight and mess anyhow, so I simplified the whole setup, which is explained above.

    http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index...howtopic=29506






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    *taken from the 4age masterbook*

    this is from a blacktop engine, but they are very similar....



    here is how you can mod the ISCV hose to make it neater and so it avoids the other coolant lines.

    you can see in pics 2-8 how they are modifying the inlet on the manifold from the 90 degree angle to the 180 degree angle.

    picture 9 shows the finished result.


    here is an alternative to the fuel lines.



    you can see in pic 13 how they are removing the tab on the fuel line so it can be fitted differently.

    in pic 14 you can see the fuel line fitted to the manifold, pointing in the down position so that the line can run under the manifold to the factory ae86
    fuel line location.
    picture 14 also shows the ISCV hose relocated to its new position.

    pic 15 and 16 shows modifying the hose to add length so it can reach the factory fuel filter location.

    picture 17 shows the finished result




    pic 18 and 27 are probably the good ones here. they show the fuel line routed under the manifold in pic 18, and the lines connected to the hard lines in pic 27.

    *if any of the info i have posted is incorrect, please feel free to correct it*
    Last edited by slide86; 18th August 2009 at 10:52 PM.

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    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    hey i found a random handful of connectors, some spare tps and map sensor plugs, and I have a plug here that might be icv for a 20v. Its part number is 90980-11145.

    90980 is a unique prefix for all toyota wiring connectors as far as I know, theres a manual for id purposes on the net, easy to find if you just google 90980. I actually borrowed the Toyota hard copy from a good friend to look mine up. Some plugs may not feature a number due to the way they are designed or damaged. Thats why the manuals handy.

    Anyhow, Ill go and see if this plug fits my icv and come back and tell you.

    Yep, It fit the ae111 icv.

    If you want it you can have it.


    Function Quantity Part Number
    Air Temp Sensor 1 90980-11163
    TPS 1 90980-10711
    C.O.P. 4 90980-11885
    Injectors 4 90980-11285
    VVT 1 90980-11162
    CAS/Dizzy 1 90980-11150
    Temp Sender 1 90980-11062
    Purge Solenoid 1 90980-11156
    Alternator 1 90980-11349
    ICV 1 90980-11145
    MAP Sensor 1 TBC
    Speed sensor 1 TBC
    O2 Sensor 1 TBC

    PS the cop number is for 1zzfe cop ignition.
    Last edited by LittleRedSpirit; 18th August 2009 at 11:04 PM.






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    Senior Member dtour's Avatar
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    thanks fellas,

    heaps of info there should all work out

    will check with the dude wiring it up if he wants me to supply the missing ones or not but still, how much u want for the connector?

    Jon

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