Would you change anything? I want to do 7age build, with cams etc, but want to keep stock ecu I think.
WHat ecu?
um where do i start
7a block .5mm oversize
7a crank stock size
spool con rods
wiseco pistons comp ratio is 12.37-1
7a stock brand new toyota genuine oil pump
7a sump
4age 16v stock head gasket toyota genuine
4age 16v bigport head ported to the shit
264 hks cam shafts at 8.1mm lift on intake and 8.35mm lift on exhaust
toda single valve springs
fidanza adjustable cam gears
Porsche timing belt
t3 quad throttlebody adapters
ae101 silvertop individual throttle body's
i think thats all i can think of for now other than that
stock 2nd hand head bolts
stock 2nd hand main cap bolts
arp 2000 rod bolts (comes stock with spool)
and just Toyota genuine seal throughout
my new plans are to build a new head i have some slightly bigger cams here at 288 8.5mm lift toda i will be using sperteck twin valve springs titanium retainers solid buckets stainless 1 peice valves and alot more port work i will also be getting a set of extractors and port match my head to them there is alot more i can do but without going to overbored if i need more 315 deg total duration and copper carbide guides and seats and titanium valves but that is a bit overbored i think
ill get some skid vids up soon when the next drift event is on i now have a trailer i can use to get it out to the track so i dont know if im going to keep it rego'd unless i can get a pink slip easy enough and with the state its in i dont think its going to happen lol i also get my license back on the 17th next month yay
the dyno pull to 300rwkw
BT20v is making 300rwkw like i said i would without nitrous so now its time for some spray and see if she will run a 10s or less
Would you change anything? I want to do 7age build, with cams etc, but want to keep stock ecu I think.
WHat ecu?
With the 7age you really wanna beef up the bottom end because of the extra stroke they dont wanna rev out as far as the 4age. For an alright budget spool rods are good for 500 bucks can't complain and they shod hold up easy at say like 8100rpm all day. Can't remember how much mat paid for the pistons but it was Probs about 700 you can go cheap pistons but like I said you'd want to build up the bottom end strong. And again with the choice of cr depends on the ecu you want and what the is used for like track or daily.
If staying stock ecu you wouldnt want to put too big cams because your also asking the ecu to compensate for the extra 200cc your putting through the motor.
Depends on budget.
Motec would be smick. But something like a haltec would be good.
i run an adaptronic e420c but if you want to build a 7a do a robo and build it pretty much stock with better rods of course
pm me marvis i may have something good for you soon
the issue you will have with cams is that its not the stock rev range that is affected but the limiter on a stock management the ecu will throw as much fuel as it can into the motor on the limiter fouling the plugs this is what happened to me when i ran stock ecu with my current cams a long time ago driving was fine but when it hit the limiter the plugs got fouled instantly
you are incorrect about the spool rods not being able to handle the rpm as they can, what would give up first its the crank and vibration combined with a ross harmonic balancer you can easily see 9000rpm with spool rods the vibration in the 7a is what makes the engine weak the rods are fine for strength they are balanced very well even better than stock blacktop rods from factory
the spool rods are also shot peened making them less likely to cracking the only thing that would let go is the rod bolts and arp2000 are quiet strong if i want to rev mine more ill get stronger rod bolts we all now a blacktop can rev to 9000 stock and if you want a comparison from blacktop rods to spool 7a there is no comparison the spool rods are far stronger and better balanced i know i have balanced blacktop rods and weighed up spool (spool didnt need balancing)
in the end it comes down to engine balanced you crank, pistons and rods all need to be perfect if not then you wont be able to rev it out
the dyno pull to 300rwkw
BT20v is making 300rwkw like i said i would without nitrous so now its time for some spray and see if she will run a 10s or less
i said they will hold up easy at 8100 all day? meaning they are plenty good.
more goodies shorter diff ratios are on the cards and new pipes combined with my new head im looking for a little more punch
bathurst hill climb is on soon il be smashing that
here is some pics its un regod atm but i gots a trailer and im in the process of getting more rego it hasn't been driven in like a month or 2
just a few pics of the susy and the motor the new head will be getting built soon when i finish a few other jobs for friends
new toda pipes and head should go great then ill get it all tuned up perfect
the dyno pull to 300rwkw
BT20v is making 300rwkw like i said i would without nitrous so now its time for some spray and see if she will run a 10s or less
Usally rocks one but I think it was just in the way when trying to work on the motor.
correct now im looking at building a 7age stroker blacktop 20v 1.9ltr for fun
but i would like to get this car running at her best before anything else im trying to tune her myself but its not easy
the dyno pull to 300rwkw
BT20v is making 300rwkw like i said i would without nitrous so now its time for some spray and see if she will run a 10s or less
Are you still coming to bathurst for the hill climb? I live in bathurst and would really love to see this thing in person.
If you are coming up I'll make a solid effort to come up and watch on the day.