I went ahead and swapped the relay off my spare wiring harness, had the same issue. I took off the cover on the steering column and nuked the switch with contact cleaner, lights worked right away.
I think the hazards are fused separately to your turn signals so best bet would be to check that first
If its not that I'd check an make sure the switch is actually plugged in, then replace it if still no luck
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I went ahead and swapped the relay off my spare wiring harness, had the same issue. I took off the cover on the steering column and nuked the switch with contact cleaner, lights worked right away.
I'm currently sourcing an A/C Panel and I'm hunting down the correct driver's side door card.
For the sound system I used the OEM deck off my 1992 Toyota Paseo/Cynos and used Pioneer speakers, a bit of the driver's side plastic under the dash panel was ripped apart to fit 6" speakers but the 4" mounting points for the speakers remained. The passenger's side was relatively untouched. The rears installed easy, but I still need to make a speaker panel probably out of MDF. I decided it to do it the hard way and solder the post-'87 wiring harness to the already cut wires from the 83-86 harness, instead of using solderless connectors, for a cleaner look. I blew a fuse in the process since it was a tiny little 10A instead of a 20A. It sounds great!
The only thing left now is my front brakes, those will be addressed by friday and I'll hopefully have my car registered and driving by the weekend. I've planned out my 4AGE swap over the summer since I'll be free from college applications and school and my health will have improved by then.
I pulled the car out since the garage is closed during winter, I sat it outside for a day before I towed it back home:
I went ahead and gave it a few test drives at home. It seems to need some timing and fine tuning of the carb still, but it runs well enough to shift through it's gears. More coming soon.
Wondering if anyone has any insight on an issue I've run into with my headlights. The driver's side headlight doesn't open or shut all the way, how do I adjust this?
There's an adjuster on top of the motor beside the light. If you have a friend turn them on and off you can see it spinning. Just turn it when they're off until its in the fully closed position.
If they dont open all the way after that you may find that the gears in the little motor are stripped and that the motor needs replaced.
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Thanks, I'm also having trouble with the dash lights and the a/c lights. They do not light up in when turning the headlight switch on? My brake light on the dash will also not shut off.
Could be a blown fuse. If the brake light is always on it means the handbrake wire might be playing up
Been a few weeks, got a lot done. I fixed my dash lights, installed a kouki GTS gauge cluster, installed brakes and cooked a new driver's side front caliper after locking it up. I bled the whole system of air and the brakes feel much better and they function fine. The transmission leaks but it seems to leak less (self-healing toyota???) when I top it off. The winter is hitting the US harder than usually this time of the year:
Before the storm hit I took the liberty of working on my interior, I remade the backing for the passenger's side door card and I'm doing the driver's side at the moment:
There's some odd stuff stuck to the bottom vinyl, It chips off but it gets too thin to remove in some spots, don't want to risk ruining the vinyl trying to remove it chemically.
When I swapped gauge clusters I found that someone install some crap LEDs in place of the bulbs, I promptly removed them and replaced them with the correct green bulbs:
Turns out I forgot to grab parts from the last owner, he shot me a message and I was able to get the correct bumper extensions along with extra seatbelts and some spare parts. I also got to drive his manual SR5 which drove like butter.
More stuff on the way, I'm planning on doing the 4AGE swap sometime this summer since time will be much more flexible.
Wondering if anyone knows what might be wrong with my rear defroster. One connector gets 10-14V and the other has none.