20v into T-18

[stouty]

I know this has probally been coverd a hundred times but im a huge noob when it comes to engines.

I was wondering if anyone could post a link or if they have done it give me some info of whats needed. And a run down of parts to convert to RWD too please.

Thanks

[Golberg]

Its the same deal as doing it into any other E7. The only difference is you need all the steering stuff from a KE70 or AE71.

And of course you need all the usual crossmembers and mounts etc from a manual AE71.

[slydar]

well first you would need to set the car up for 4age. theres a couple of ways to do that.

then its the same as any ke70 or ae86 20v conversion really.

converting a 20v from fwd to rwd can be done so many ways though.

the best way is using alot of expensive japanese parts for converting the water inlets and outlets to the same as an 86 4age + then you need the original ae86 rwd parts like the water pump and alternator bracket. this is literally $1000 of $s.

another way is just a bypass plate at the rear of the head, block the rear outlet on the side near the headers, and then just set it up with an external thermostat housing much like a cheap fwd to rwd 16v conversion.

lastly, you can just leave it all stock and run some pipes..

another newer option is to run a bypass at the rear, block off plate at the site, and a thermostat at the top from on a billet plate. this way lets you keep the stock water pump and is pretty neat too.

basically though man, it depends how neat you want it, and how much your willing to spend to have a tidy/er engine bay. just have a dig around.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Ive noticed techno toy tuning now has a rwd water kit for the 20v that puts the pipes under the inlet, and retains the complete factory fwd coolant flow. It has a rear fitting that points the hoses to the inlet side, instead of the exhaust side, and keeps the thermostat there as intended. Then the head and waterpump stay connected and you intercept the coolant (to the radiator) at the correct spot.

If you look at how the 20v cooling system works, it cools the inlet first after the radiator with the standard setup, and it cools the inlet last the way most people set it up for rwd (myself included). Obviously Toyota were smart when they routed the water, and it would be best to keep this setup if possible.

$680 US dollars is a bit expensive, but its the ultimate setup in my opinion.


http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=781

[stouty]

That kit looks like it would be the way to go bit $$$ but very easy and as you mention and they do keeps everything original which could only be good.

What things would i need to set it up for 4age.
# 4age bellhousing
# 4age crossmember
???

[LittleRedSpirit]

bellhousing
flywheel n clutch
starter
motor
water kit
filter socks
bellhousing to block braces
sandwhich plate
efi fuel system
engine mounts
ae71/86 engine crossmember
ae71/86 rack and column
extractors and exhaust
aftermarket ecu
loom to suit
dizzy deletion plate
custom radiator hoses
good condition standard or new radiator

Youd be better off to wait until someone parts a car and buy a whole package. It saves money and time. :shocked:

[ae86]

matt-ae86 has a mass part out now, and has a quality rwd water system complete with adaptronic ecu and 20v tune already on it in parts section.

[stouty]

Yeh have been thinking to look for a part out would save alot.

I already have bellhousing and crossmember with mounts that i got for free so basically would need clutch, flywheel, complete engine with loom, ecu, steering set up. would be around the $5000 mark i guess.

[stouty]

Yeh he is in perth and looking for local sales. Would be sweet but.

[Sam-Q]

I have serious doubts about the real advanage of the T3 kit, and I am not saying that because I sell something different. From what I understand toyota put that large channel behind the throttles to stop them icing up. I plan on doing some non contact temperature measurments between my own engine and one with the original cooling path to see the real difference.

[LittleRedSpirit]

What do you mean icing up?

Are you refering to the same type of idea as cold start hose through the throttlebody?

I was under the impression cold start wasnt present on a 20v. Its all kind of irrelevent as the motor heats up since the coolant just does laps of the motor and doesnt at that time have a re-entry point to speak of. Plus, if the coolant in the head is what you are referring to, its a long way from the throttle body where the cold start hoses usually run on Toyotas.

Im having trouble gasping the meaning of what you wrote, Sam.

Can you explain further?

Im sure its not a big difference, because 20vs remain reliable, I just think it may rob us of a couple of ponies to intercept the coolant at the wrong spot due to higher inlet temps. It may be one more reason why we never achieve the quoted hp figures from Japan.

[Anthony]

anti icing and cold start are different things. when air rushes past a small orifice ice crystals can form. This is believed to be at least one of the main reason for the coolant passage below the inlet flange on the 20V.

Same reason an SR20 has coolant lines on the throttle body even though it has fully electronic idle control.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Ok, thanks Anthony, that makes more sense now.

I guess in a climate like Australias, these things are not major conserns being there are few places that could be cold enough to cause problems.

[Sam-Q]

ok I had decided there are two things I am going to do between my engine and one with the old fashioned cooling system flow:

1- non contact temp gauge from the head under the throttles

2-thermocouple in the top and bottom radiator pipes

[todd]

i would spend the extra cash and get an RS chita kit and do it the best way possible.

[Sam-Q]

well the "best way" is personal opinion, personally I think the front outlet pipe is great but the rear sucks. Particually if you dont want a heater/need a left hand facing heater barb (early corolla+celica)/want to have different sensor threads/want something a bit more slimline/etc... But as I said its just what I find ideal, in my rear bypass plates the ISCV valve needs to be mounted on the lower bolt only, I am sure some people woudln't accept that. Oh that and its not "JDM".

I wouldnt think negative of anyone who prefers the RS Chita kit though, oh and I think its about 50X better than that bloody T3 kit.

[todd]

yeah i will admit i like your rear setup is better than the chita one, but i was talking more relatively in terms of a 'package' as such. and can defiantely agree on the t3 one being sub par lol

[corknose]

why dont you buy dirty86 or something hes in nsw sydney selling everything for a ae86 to be converted into a 20v

[LittleRedSpirit]

Oh well, I reckon the t3 kit looks like the best option as its same as standard. The chita kit adapts a jdm ae86 water system doesnt it?

I think toyota would have put science into their design beyond what we can comprehend, as far as temperature stability and general water system function goes. I think since the T3 kit uses the same in and out points it must be the ideal.

I dont think the 2hp you would make extra if the inlet were in fact cooler would be worth the 680 dollars. For 300 dollars or so Ive got all the bits I need and its tested and functions excellently. Its not worth either the chita or the t3 kit if you really think about it.

Nice how we could all have different opinions and still get along.:thumbup:

[todd]

nah i hate you all.

[stouty]

why dont you buy dirty86 or something hes in nsw sydney selling everything for a ae86 to be converted into a 20v

Do you have the link to his sale thread i cant find it.

[corknose]

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php?t=8598

[Sam-Q]

I dont think the 2hp you would make extra if the inlet were in fact cooler would be worth the 680 dollars. For 300 dollars or so Ive got all the bits I need and its tested and functions excellently. Its not worth either the chita or the t3 kit if you really think about it.

Nice how we could all have different opinions and still get along.:thumbup:

I tottaly agree on both points. This is what forums should be about we all have different opinions and want different things but its still a productive conversation