where to find threaded rod + turnbuckles

[sundee]

Car - ae86/ke70

motor - NA

use - NA

problem - NA

occurs/started when - NA


personal situation - I want to embark on making some adjustable upper trailing arm for my 70,
ive decided to go superpro 90A in the arms untill i decided to make it an equal lengh solid setup later on.

anyway:
all i want to know is where can i buy the threaded rod with the turn buckle and nuts from to do the job?

locations around sydney would be good.
can u order over the web?

any tips would be great!

cheers

[Sam-Q]

your not willing to have it adjustable with one end off the car? If you get desperate I might be ordering a large left hand thread tap so I can make my own and I might be able to organise something.

[sundee]

i would prefer to have them adjustable in the center with a LH and RH thread with the turn buckle in the middle... but if i cant find these, i should be able to because guys are using them.. ill hit u up sam

[Sam-Q]

I have been looking into buying the left hand taps and dies to make these myself though, I should look a bit harder

[sundee]

im going to go down my local supplier on saturday if their open and see if they have any or have a catalogue to look through. if i find some ill let you know.

[Sam-Q]

ok thanks, I found a left hand M14 x 1.0 die and taps but I perfer something closer to 20x1.5

[sundee]

i find the upper arms really flimsy! i actually bend my last ones on my 86.
so im going to use a pair of lower arms to fab up some adjustable upper arms.
will be alot more ridgid and stronger. havent measured yet but the upper arms are only about 12mm OD and the lower are closer to 20mm i think.. thats at a guess, id have to measure to be sure.

you havent found anywhere where u can buy them pre made off the shelf?

[Skylar]

Dude, how did you bend the upper arms? It's virtually impossible to do it under normal conditions. and there really isn't any need to make them bigger until you're lifting the front wheels off the ground.

You can buy adjustable bushed rear upper (and lower) trailing links from whiteline but they are like 280 a pair. I ain't paying that.

Sam, mcmaster carrrr (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/PSearch2.asp?reqTyp=parametric&act=psearch&FAM=taps&FT_4217=188883&FT_1544=72052&FT_262=157993&session=taps;1544=72052;4217=188883;262=157993&sesnextrep=793303189340953&ScreenWidth=800&McMMainWidth=590) Any reason you want it that big? Wouldn't it be hard to find a bearing with a shank that big?

[hugh]

I think Bunnings usually has long, threaded rod...pretty sure I have seen it there before..

[*E7*]

ok thanks, I found a left hand M14 x 1.0 die and taps but I perfer something closer to 20x1.5

sam-q,

I work at Cost less bolts, i can hook you up with any sized taps and dies you will need, and also supply left and right hand threaded nuts.

depending on your method, you could get away with only using right handed nuts.

-dave

[sundee]

Dude, how did you bend the upper arms? It's virtually impossible to do it under normal conditions. and there really isn't any need to make them bigger until you're lifting the front wheels off the ground.

You can buy adjustable bushed rear upper (and lower) trailing links from whiteline but they are like 280 a pair. I ain't paying that.



Sam, mcmaster carrrr (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/PSearch2.asp?reqTyp=parametric&act=psearch&FAM=taps&FT_4217=188883&FT_1544=72052&FT_262=157993&session=taps;1544=72052;4217=188883;262=157993&sesnextrep=793303189340953&ScreenWidth=800&McMMainWidth=590) Any reason you want it that big? Wouldn't it be hard to find a bearing with a shank that big?

yeah AJPS make them aswell, but i want to make them myself.. a bit if DIY
i have no idea how it bent, it came out bend..
i only though of using lower arms up top purly for thread size, i assume the lower arms are hollow so i could insert the threaded rod inside and then weld, instead of butt welding it. that was the main reason


I think Bunnings usually has long, threaded rod...pretty sure I have seen it there before..

yeah they have it but its gonna be hi tensile stuff. and Gal coated is no good for welding.. it just splatters

[*E7*]

yeah they have it but its gonna be hi tensile stuff. and Gal coated is no good for welding.. it just splatters

wouldn't recommend welding the high tensile stuff, as the heat can cause hydrogen embrittlement in the steel.

I can also supply high tensile threaded rod in most sizes with nuts to suit.

very little is available in left hand, usually a spherical bearing with a left hand thread would be used.

I have also looked through a tractor spare parts book, where thay have prefabricated adjustable arms with spherical bearings for their linkages.

haven't yet looked into price as yet.

was toying with the possibilty of using them for adjustable LCA's

-dave

[sundee]

wouldn't recommend welding the high tensile stuff, as the heat can cause hydrogen embrittlement in the steel.

I can also supply high tensile threaded rod in most sizes with nuts to suit.

very little is available in left hand, usually a spherical bearing with a left hand thread would be used.

I have also looked through a tractor spare parts book, where thay have prefabricated adjustable arms with spherical bearings for their linkages.

haven't yet looked into price as yet.

was toying with the possibilty of using them for adjustable LCA's

-dave

i didnt know that about hi tensile.. thanks dave!

im not planing on using spherical bearings, all i want to do is make my upper trailing arms adjustable, so i can correct the pinion angle.

all i want to do is cut the upper arm in half, weld a nut on each end, then take some threaded rod, 1 half left hand thread , the other right hand, wind the 2 threads into a nut atleast 15mm wide then weld at each end to secure the rod, wind on 2 lock nuts, then wind on the 2 halves of the arm and bolt it up.

im not sure what grade of threaded rod to use, because i would need to weld a nut in the middle so the arm can be adjusted.

[Sam-Q]

Skylar: thanks for the link, a lot of money though... The reason I would want it that big would be because of rigidity. For example if I make some strut braces like I am thinking of doing then I could make an adjustable mechinism for it instead of those rod ends. For strength Vs weight its hard to beat a large diameter with a thin wall. The stength of an M12 thread in the middle of something would be dreadfull compared to a fine thread M20 with a 15mm hole down the middle and it would probably weight the same too.

hugh: their called an All-thread, not what we need here though.

Dave: thanks for the offer I will send you a PM. How how could we get away with using a right hand thread though?

sundee86: I have modified my own lower arms before. If you like I can supply you what you need to weld the bit in yourself, you will need to undo one end off the car to adjust it though.

[sundee]

thanks Sam-Q ill keep it in mind, im going to aim for an on car adjustable item.
if i can find a 1 piece threaded rod with turn buckle that would be perfect, if not im going to make some up.

[Go Fish]

here is a kit available for exactly what you want in control arms..

http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=772

[sundee]

here is a kit available for exactly what you want in control arms..

http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=772

hey thanks champ, I've actually purchased that kit for my LCA's. But it's not
what I'm after for the trailing arms. If u have a look at the
AJPS panhard rods, that same turn buckle setup is what I'm aiming for. Actually u have just given me a thought!! Cheers

[*E7*]

How how could we get away with using a right hand thread though?



utilizing the same setup as the stock caster rods.

nut on each side of a fixed point.

one end would remain standard, one end would be boxed so thread could pass through with a nut on each side.

[Sam-Q]

yeah fair enough, that wouldn't fit too well with my ideas of an adjustable strut brace though.

[*E7*]

alternatively an angle bracket would also suffice for the adjusted end.

hole through the angle with nut either side.

angle could be braced back to itself for extra strength too

[*E7*]

better thought again...

you could use a solid trunnion for a strut brace with a nut on the outside only.

would always presumably be under tension, so wouldn't need a nut on the inside.

kind of like the adjusting mechanism on a intercooler piping hose clamp (heavy duty type)

-dave

[takai]

Its not always under tension though. Very little holding it in place rearwards apart from the driveshaft, and that can quite easily pull itself out and tear bolts.

[Sam-Q]

yes I think the other side is under tension, however your idea gives me a creative idea, ok this ishard to explain but I will give it a go:

one end of the bar is a threaded end, it goes between two spaced apart plates with a nut in the middle, so simple yet so effective. As a bonus I could do a twin system and not compramise my strength. Need a drawing?

[takai]

I think i see what you are getting at there Sam. For the effort and packaging though get a left handed tap, or see if you can turn it up on a lathe, i know the one i used to use at RP had a reverse coarse thread setting for cutting LH threads.

[*E7*]

Its not always under tension though. Very little holding it in place rearwards apart from the driveshaft, and that can quite easily pull itself out and tear bolts.

sorry mate, i was referring to a strut brace that time, not the trailing arms.

[*E7*]

yes I think the other side is under tension, however your idea gives me a creative idea, ok this ishard to explain but I will give it a go:

one end of the bar is a threaded end, it goes between two spaced apart plates with a nut in the middle, so simple yet so effective. As a bonus I could do a twin system and not compramise my strength. Need a drawing?

damm you sam q (hey that rhymes :) )

i have kept thinking about this, and come up with another way as well.

this one i need to draw, but it won't be pretty.

it would consist of the bar being hollow, with a sleeve that will encapsulate some of the other bar. (one can slide in and out of the other)

a tag would be welded to both sides of each bar (inner and outer) , and a set screw would then be used to adjust the spacing between the tags (lengthening or shortening the rod) by screwing the setscrews in or out of the nut welded onto one of the tags.

sort of like the principle of a motorbike chain tensioner

i call dibs on the patent, or 20% royalties if someone else makes it ;)

[*E7*]

the above could also be done to stock parts, eliminating the need for extra materials

[Sam-Q]

ok I need a drawing, and it has to be one of those shonky paintshop ones or else I wont look at it

[*E7*]

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/gallery/1249802050/gallery_5644_289_3564.jpg

[Sam-Q]

hahahahaha!

I like it!

interesting idea, gives me more to think about

[Sam-Q]

hey is there any reason why a large diameter turn buckle type arangement cant be used for a lower control arm?

[*E7*]

hey is there any reason why a large diameter turn buckle type arangement cant be used for a lower control arm?

I would want mine to be a heavy duty mofo, not some of the weaker commercial rubbish that is out there.

I have done some research on Tractor linkages that are adjustable with spherical bearings at each end.

there would be some of those that would be suitable, but i haven't yet enquired about price.


I still maintain that a basic one would be something like this...

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/uploads/monthly_10_2008/post-5916-1225268052.jpg

[Sam-Q]

wow thats one serious rod end, biggest I have ever seen. I was thinking more along the lines of using the existing bushed end and then having something like 25mm turnbuckle made with a hollow pipe.

[sundee]

The LCA above looks like the T3 kit, just not as good..