adjusting handbrake for drift???

[trikzlane]

car - ke70

simply, i want my hanbrake to lock my wheels. i have adjusted the drums, adjusted the rachet and still nothing. i yank it and just slows down.
i am running a locked borg warner diff. what i was thinking is i might need new shoes and or shorter cables maybe??

what can i do???,

(this might be best for grant (vtec) to help me as he still runs a locked borgy and his works awsome but feel free to suggest.)

mereki.

[ke70dave]

best bet is to get some brand new drums and shoes.

over time the drums wear and wont contact the shoes properly. same goes for the pads etc

i replaced my shoes a few weeks ago, but didn't replace the drums. made hardly any difference to the handbrake.

the drum outers should only cost about 70$/pair from repco.

shorter cables wont help you out, just make sure all the anchor points are secure. and that it is adjust well.

[Skylar]

Tap footbrake while using handbrake. Load transfers to front and less work for the friction material (at rear) to do. Should lock up that way.

[.ady]

+1 on above slightly tap on the footbrak and yank the handbrake you sud get isntant lock....i ve got a kouki disc rear and it wudnt lock up for shit.....friend suggested the same thing and yes it works well even in the dry!

[trikzlane]

i will try that, thanks

mereki.

[markKE70]

duno if u have one but made a heaps big difference when i put my drift button is. you can pull up the hand brake heaps harder and i had shity borgy diff and crap pads etc locked up everytime with no footbrake in the dry
the ajps ones are black and dont look to atractive to the po po either :)

[ikus]

iv got the same as .ady (kouki disk rear) and it just slows the car. ill give the foot brake tap a go but anyone know how i can get it locking up sweet without using the foot brake??
ps. sorry for the thread highjack.

[ae86]

depends how you want to go about it, you still want it to be roadworthy ? if so you can change to slotted and vented rotors which is a big help, and then softer compound pads, new handbrake cables if yours are frayed/stretched,

if you dont care just go hydrolic handbrake will beat the pants off of other setups

[redsprinter]

yea had the same problem . so now i shift the weight up front by taping the brake lighty and pull handbrake .. works wonders i reckon it also does less damage to the drive train and poor old handbrake lever and cables.

[ikus]

cheers ae86, yeah i would love a hydro but for now ill just change rotors, pads and cables like you said. maybe hydro after i get my engineers certificate.

i went for a drive and tried the brake tapping seems to work pretty good, for now it will have to do.

oh and your sig is funny as redsprinter.

[Golberg]

Project-Mu make pads for the disc rear ends which are specifically designed for drift.

Similarly Project-Mu make rear drum shoes for T-series rear ends (although I haven't got anything out of gsl rally sport about them).

But realistically if you're running a borgy, your options are pretty much rubbish.

Dave I think you'll find that the drums are more expensive than that, maybe $70 each, but even that sounds too cheap.

I get trade price at Repco and they could get me DBA T series drums for $130 each.

[pen15]

my disc rear end after i installed project mu gear and new discs in the rear was good for a track day and a little street but now its only 1 wheel lockup same with corknose i think there is a massive flaw in the disc rear ends using cables as in the spindle may spin to much for the pot and stop 1 wheel from working

sorry for thread hijack

[steroidchickens]

i am using standard disc brake rear end and it works fine. it wont lock up the wheels in a straight line at 100km/h but it works fine at the track.

i have no idea what pads and stuff it has because i have not touched it since i got it.

but it works fine. i have flat spots in my tyres to prove it.

once you transfer the weight then hit the handbrake it will be fine.

better off learning without it anyway.

[pen15]

when i was at a private road (this 1 to be precise http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noIDckkxP8A) i was weight transferring foot brake and all but could not get 2 to lock up i think i might just need to piss off the cables and go hydro but i will adjust it before the track

[driftke70]

didnt have a working handbrake in my rolla for the last year that i drove it,

just make sure you slacken off the lever in the car before you adjust it at the wheel, and adjust is so you have to gently pursuade the drum back on, it should still free spin. Then take up the slack at the lever.

I put new shoes and lubed my cables and stuff literally hours ago.

[Rip it]

Go a hydro if it is in your budget, if not the above should sort you out. Remember the hydro is not a parking brake, they bleed through after a short period of time. Trust me!!

[lolwat]

i got Driftkids handbrake locking in the dry, by just ripping it up, lossened the hand brake right off, at the handle, then adjusted the drums (scruffed the shoes up) then adjusted the handle (cables) accordingly


(he still had genuine shoes and drums:S)

[Hokey]

as everyone said don't muck around with it. just get new drums and shoes and make sure the wheel cyinders and axle seals aren't leaking and standard borgy diff have mad handbrakes. also the footbrake not only helps with weight transfer but gives the drums a hand aswell in locking them up.

[Skylar]

Hey, completely irrelevent to thread but the 'te' at the end of the jap in your sig should be a 'ta' if you're trying to say what I think you're trying to say. It sounds wrong in my head when I read it.

[trikzlane]

wat?
it say addicted to drift

mereki.

[blair]

i can see 9 Black lines lol!

[Skylar]

If you want it to say that, it should be a 'ta' instead of the 'te'.