EWP (electronic water pump)???????????

[Mr Awsome]

ok so what i want to know is.......

how you go about fitting and electronic water pump on a 16v 4age and how good are the davies craig EWP's?

[Rip it]

I have use one of these with good results, although not on a 16v.
All you do is make a plate that seals off where your water pump used to mount, you still use the original outlet, this is where the EWP connects, effectivly you put it in the middle of your bottom hose.
You can either have a simple relay and switch set up or you can get an electronic controller that you can change the switching temps on.
Personally I think they are a really good thing, they stop cavitation and you control when the water is being pumped ie: below running temp - leave off, when up to temp - turn on.

Jake.

[Dylan]

Josh Yound had one on his 16V , pics stolen from toymods

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/3821/engine0044xw.jpg (http://img3.imageshack.us/i/engine0044xw.jpg/) http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/engine0044xw.jpg/1/w1152.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img3/engine0044xw.jpg/1/)

http://img83.exs.cx/img83/9246/engine0079wd.jpg

[ToySprinta]

I run one on mine. Used to run the controller, but found more consistent temps with a thermostat

[slide86]

so it just runs in series with the lower rad hose and flows from the engine into the radiator as per normal

[Sam-Q]

I had a good bitch about these on Toymods. More than once have I heard of their expensive controller not working the way they should. and to hook it up right you need an external thermostat and a heap of piping.

I am about to do an experiment soon on using a small powerful brushless motor to drive the existing pump directly. That way you can use all your existing piping.

[redsprinter]

Sam let us know how you go .. have looked into the EWP .. but have heard mixed report on reliability .

[Sam-Q]

yeah no problem, I will post the updates on here if I have any. I plan on buying the toothed pulleys today if all goes well

[Mr Awsome]

hmm would be interesting to see how you go sam

[Sam-Q]

this is what I have in mind:

http://www.vpw.com.au/images/univ%20billet%20WATER%20PUMP%20KIT.jpg

but more compact, cheap and easy. I plan on using a small brushless motor to drive it and specifically for a FWD type 4A pump

[RobertoX]

I'm keen to see what you put together sam. By the way I reckon running a thermostat is a good thing, basically set up the water pump so that it runs as per the factory circuit either circulating water around the block or putting it through the radiator.

I think the fact that the pump doesn't circulate water around the block when it's turned off is actually a disadvantage.
If you basically just change the set up so the drive for the stock pump as an electric motor you would get the advantage of controlling the pump speed. The disadvantage is of course that you have to run the electric motor all the time which may reduce its life ?

You any good at circuitry? you could set up a controller that switches the speed of the motor depending on the temp of the engine. Slowly circulate water when its cool and the thermo is closed, then speed it up when the thermo opens...

[Sam-Q]

my thought exactly. This will be a two speed and it wont take my circuitry to do it either, just modded off the shelf bits. I will slow it down as much as I can and watch the temps and then speed it up at the point at which the thermostat turns on, or something like that.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Ive looked into these, even owned one without installing it, and the reason was that I was informed how poorly the fancy ewp controller thing worked in most applications.

If I was going to use one it would be controlled via thermostat. The idea is good, but the hardware just isnt up to the job. Several people have told me about the same issues with them.:right:

[Sam-Q]

oh also in these motors the only thing that wears is the bearings, no other wearable parts.

[Sam-Q]

Ive looked into these, even owned one without installing it, and the reason was that I was informed how poorly the fancy ewp controller thing worked in most applications.

If I was going to use one it would be controlled via thermostat. The idea is good, but the hardware just isnt up to the job. Several people have told me about the same issues with them.:right:

funny that and when Autospeed do a dyno run with and without it the company threatens legal action in 5min flat. I still haven't found out the result of that.

[boost+k]

i had been running one of these with the early analog controller and it worked fine untill i had a slight overtemp and the whole pump expanded and let all the water out the seal... it must have airlocked around my temp sensor because my gauge went down and i didn't relise, needless to say it killed my motor

and now i've heard they have brought out a new alloy cased version so i guess im not the only one that has had this happen

so i had come to the conclusion to run the mech pump off a electric motor like sam has posted but havent found a suitable motor yet (and havent swapped my engine out yet)

i had planned to use my old controller to control the motor but after alot of thinking and looking at how it works i've now started building my own controller because the davis one changes the voltage from 3-14v to controll the speed but i'm gonna do pulsewidth modulation so not to get massive current draw at low speed and be able to run whatever motor i can find and not worry about the size and draw

another thing to check when you take out your thermostat is the routing of all your heater pipes and stuff, on my sr i had to move alot of the pipes around or it would be flowing fresh cold water past the temp sensor, donno what a 4age is like tho

[Sam-Q]

so i had come to the conclusion to run the mech pump off a electric motor like sam has posted but havent found a suitable motor yet (and havent swapped my engine out yet)


pulse width is superior yes but there is one better again, its full frequency adjustment with a 3 phase motor. Here is the type of motor that I think is the way to go:

http://superandcheaper.com/FC380-2848sink-1.jpg

obviously not that exact one but you get the idea. DC input and three phase output. I will probably go for a 1:3 underdrive from the motor to the pump. The thing about these is that they are cheap as, controllers are off the shelf, powerful, very efficient and very light. This one is a cheapy and it supposedly can handle 41A peak, is only 135 grams and has a diameter of 28mm. I would get one that is a bit more of a known product though. I know about these because of the research on my trike 4 project which is a 3x3 recumbent off road trike with electric assist. Linky: (http://s-86.com/s-trike4.html)

[boost+k]

cool, i like the look of your trike, i will have a read about it as soon as i get a chance, and yea 3 phase would be a awsome option, i didn't relise they were out there, time for some more reasearch :))

need to find what is available in my part of the world aswell (NZ) but i'm keen to get this done my mid jan providing my other cars don't hold me up

[Sam-Q]

its all here:

Hobby city (http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=222) cheap quick postage so where you doesnt matter luckily

Kv = rpm per volt. Send me a message for more details

[takai]

Yeah, i was looking at doing this a while ago. But never really got around to it. I have a couple of little RC engines (and a couple of BIG ones) although i was looking at using a cheap thermofan and gutting it for the motor

For now though im just running an underdrive pulley

[Sam-Q]

I have a T3 under-drive pulley on my engine and I didn't notice the difference. I guess I just need to get off my butt to do this project and then report on the results

[takai]

I noticed it, its bright red :p
Nah, it did stop cavitation at around 9000rpm.

[Sam-Q]

ere silver actually. So how did you know it stop cavitation?

[takai]

I would always see about a 10deg rise in water temp through the high speed kink and into Northern at Mallala, all of which was pushing 8000-9000rpm all the way. After i put the underdrive pulley on it went away.
I can only assume that it was cavitation, as thats all that makes sense.

[Sam-Q]

yes makes a lot of sense and yeah I would think it could only be that.