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Tim.duncan
7th December 2009, 04:53 AM
Hey guys

im trying to remove the crank timing belt sprocket so i can re seal my oil pump and the sucker just will not come off!! its nearly impossible to get a puller in there as the oil pump casting goes around it leaving very little room. im probely going to end up grinding down my puller arm just to get in there but just wanted to know

is there any tricks for getting this off?

cheers

ke70dave
7th December 2009, 09:03 AM
yer i had the same problem. i destroyed a puller trying to modifiy it to work... i ended up destroying the pulley at the same time. and it still wouldnt come off.

then one day my mate came round, he cant talk, but i left him to play with the engine for a bit. i come back 5mins later and hes got the damn thing off. he just the claw end of a largish claw hammer. apparently it came off very easy....

so give that a go i reckon, it sounds agricultural.. but if it works...

Jonny Rochester
7th December 2009, 11:11 AM
2 flat screwdrivers. One in either side. Lever both of them at exactly the same time.

Nikkojoe
7th December 2009, 11:15 AM
For the ones that do not come off, you will have to discard them. I had 1 recently, 2 screw driver trick as jonny described failed hard, a puller chipped the back edge of the pulley off, so i just got my dremel out and cut a chanel in the gear and split it. I only did it because i had another to replace with, but that said it shouldn't be hard to get another from toyota or these forums.

lo_rolla
7th December 2009, 01:14 PM
Softly tap it with a hammer going the whole way around it, Might be best to use some thing like an alloy drift, but the hammer should be fine so long as you don't hit it too hard. Spray it with CRC / Penetrene, give it some more love taps, then try the 2 screw drivers, pulley remover or the claw of a hammer.

I never would have thought of the hammer claw, it's just something we never had in any workshops I've worked in...

FAST EDDIE
7th December 2009, 07:11 PM
they are fked to get off chisel has come out many times lol but i once got a stuck one off by heating it with the heatgun, i aslo scored a crank where the oil seal goes which isnt recommended haha!!

Javal
7th December 2009, 07:26 PM
2 flat screwdrivers. One in either side. Lever both of them at exactly the same time.

I use two medium sized prybars. Wiggle wiggle.

Gunner
7th December 2009, 07:33 PM
there is the 2 holes that are about 6mm tap em out and use them for the puller.

Nikkojoe
7th December 2009, 07:36 PM
there is the 2 holes that are about 6mm tap em out and use them for the puller.

there are no holes..... However you can drill 2 holes and tap, although if its really stuck as ive seen another where the thread strips!

For the guys that are saying pry bars with crc and any sort of penentrant, it fails when the edges start chipping off and bending. Split the sucker in half, like i did.

Javal
7th December 2009, 07:39 PM
there are no holes..... However you can drill 2 holes and tap, although if its really stuck as ive seen another where the thread strips!

For the guys that are saying pry bars with crc and any sort of penentrant, it fails when the edges start chipping off and bending. Split the sucker in half, like i did.

Yeah i've had that happen once.

Eddies suggestion of a great big fuck off cold chisel works just to get the pulley moving a tiny bit, then prybars.

stuartgze
7th December 2009, 07:59 PM
I have played this game before with a gze crank pulley. there should be 2 threads tapped into the pulley either side on the main nut. I use a puller like this one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LANDROVER-LR3-4-4L-V8-CRANKSHAFT-FRONT-PULLEY-PULLER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem51849f3a44QQitem Z350117378628QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fA ccessories

But mine was for a mini flywheel that i modded a little. Buy a tool similar to this it makes the world of difference.

Gunner
7th December 2009, 08:09 PM
there are no holes..... However you can drill 2 holes and tap, although if its really stuck as ive seen another where the thread strips!

For the guys that are saying pry bars with crc and any sort of penentrant, it fails when the edges start chipping off and bending. Split the sucker in half, like i did.

Sorry got confused with the suby ones

s14seriesII
7th December 2009, 09:27 PM
I have played this game before with a gze crank pulley. there should be 2 threads tapped into the pulley either side on the main nut. I use a puller like this one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LANDROVER-LR3-4-4L-V8-CRANKSHAFT-FRONT-PULLEY-PULLER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem51849f3a44QQitem Z350117378628QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fA ccessories

But mine was for a mini flywheel that i modded a little. Buy a tool similar to this it makes the world of difference.


there are holes in the crank pulley not the timing gear

drill 2*5mm holes and tap to m6 find 2 bolts and a harmonic balancer puller or similar

i do this almost weekly doing oil seals on 4a/7a's

Jonny Rochester
7th December 2009, 09:33 PM
Someone else did this once, but failed. They snapped the tap off inside the sprocket, and munted everything else around it. They effectively ruined a 7A motor, which they then gave to me. 7A-FE bits for sale.

s14seriesII
7th December 2009, 09:35 PM
lol in that case cut and split the timing pulley to remove and buy a new gear then refit.. or not be useless with a thread tap lol

Nikkojoe
7th December 2009, 09:57 PM
It's funny though, ive had a good run with 20+ 4a's removing this gear, however I have only encounted this problem when I got my 4agze this year. I think ill chuck up a pic of what it looked like after I was finished with it :)

Oly AE86
7th December 2009, 10:33 PM
I have done the drill and tap method with success, makes the pulley off-balance but I don't think it would be anything to worry about.

Have also used the hot/cold method, heat the sprocket with gas torch (Map 1ltr Gas etc) and then cool the crank with can of CO2, worked a treat. Just need to be careful of fire ( if you spray first then heat second) , and overheating the main seal, but its something that you would replace anyway.

Javal
7th December 2009, 10:36 PM
Have also used the hot.cold method, heat the sprocket with gas torch (Map 1ltr Gas etc) and then cool the crank with can of CO2, worked a treat.

I can see this working really well actually. Must try next time.

Tim.duncan
7th December 2009, 11:29 PM
cheers for the replys guys

yeah i have tried a few of those methods already and also have killed the pully! i just want the stupid thing off. ill igve the drill and tap a go first, its already dead so i might just cut it off as nikko joe sugested. its good to hear im not the only one having problems with this

any one got a spare pully they dont need?

biggo
8th December 2009, 07:41 PM
I did this the other day, had a pretty stuborn pulley that wouldnt come off.

Drilled and tapped 2 holes failed so i just drilled the hole out bigger and cold chisel it till it splits.

was on a 3sfe tho, same shit different story.

FAST EDDIE
8th December 2009, 09:12 PM
dunno but maybe toyota still sotcks em id say they are the same as 4ac??

Jonny Rochester
8th December 2009, 10:57 PM
I think the 4AC one is different from memory. But I think you can get the 4AG one new.

lo_rolla
9th December 2009, 01:39 PM
Our last ditch method at the last workshop was extreme heat, with the threaded holes and the puller.