Handbrake lock tricks

[ae86 slide]

So let's have em lads, what's your tips on getting those rear drums to lock up nice and fast.

Nothing worse than dragging one wheel into a corner with a pathetic single line of smoke.

[Matt-AE86]

1. Loosen the cable off
2. Adjust the cable tension at the drum brakes. I test them by putting the cover back on and see if i can move it by hand
3. Do this to both side, then adjust it so you have a good leverage with your hand. I usually like it so its only a slight pull, just as if you were to park the car. Not having to reef it up and have it pointing to the sky. Adjust it to what you feel comfortable I guess.

This has always worked well for me with drumbrakes.

[FAST EDDIE]

get some good shoes, i never had anything but the cheap ones and they worked but fair shit, i drove an 86 with good ones and it was wicked!!!!

[Golberg]

Project Mu make AE86 drum shoes. I got quoted $220 the pair.

Don't let the Australian distributors say they don't exist, they're full of shit.

Part no. is S186

[.ady]

uras pads work like a hydro apparently soon to find out if they do!

[trikzlane]

tap the footbrake, reef the handbrake and i should come after that

[corknose]

yeh project mu disk pads are useless unleess very very hot.

[ke70dave]

and buy new drums when you buy new pads!!!

no point having shiny new shoeswith crappy old drums.

belive me i found out the hard way. now i think i have to buy new drums AND shoes again...

[Hen may possibly be a nut]

I never had any troubles locking up S or T series drums (used the technique Matt describes) even with straight from the wrecker drums and shoes.

What was a bitch though was the self adjusting-ness of them. If you get on the brakes while going backwards after spinning the shoes adjust out. Brake hard enough and they'll adjust out so far they'll start to rub, and then heat up so much that the handbrake won't work.

One fix I tried was removing the self adjuster thing. They didn't adjust out, but would loosen off over the course of an afternoon meaning huge lever throw and eventually no handbrake. I meant to get around to modifying and refitting the adjusters so they held it in place, but without ever adjusting the shoes out. But changed to ST141 discs and the handbrake has been great since.

Hen

[hachi_dk]

although we arn't talking about jdm disk diffs, the handbrake was soo shit that even in the wet it was hard for me to lock up the wheels.

so heres what ive done since to solve the problem and a bit of info on ST141 disk/drum setup.

ive upgraded to ST141 on a JDM disk diff (unless you get the mounting bracket re-drilled to suit your JDM disk diff, the ST141 will not fit, but seeing as we are talking about drum T series, you guys will not have a problem as the upgrade is straight bolt on)

rears disks are 280mm in diameter which is sick.

st141 uses drum pads for the inner drum (handbrake) and calipers for the disks (footbrake).

you wont have any of the problems as you would with the drum t series "un-adjusting" themselves while using footbrake+handbrake

great upgrade and you dont need rock hard biceps to lock the wheels!

ST141 is well worth the upgrade, but if its only for the occasional dori and you dont mind getting your hands dirty having to re-adjust the drums on your t series then enjoy!

drum t series (when adjusted properly) are almost as easy to lock as a hydro
same goes for a well adjusted ST141 setup.

[resol]

a locker....


-dan

[*E7*]

leaky wheel cylinders make drum brakes very grabby. ;)

[Dan_J]

^^^^^^^

i mite grease em in dw40 and go out 2nite






















bahaha.... no

[H8CHIR6KU]

the last diff i had had 's' series cables on a 't' series diff. after the shoes adjusted up the cable just reached the lever. could only use 1 nut on the end of the cable. thing was so tight and locked bullshit wickedly