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View Full Version : 20v top water outlet - Yager Performance fitting



NIZLAH
1st March 2010, 10:13 AM
Sold............

LittleRedSpirit
1st March 2010, 02:22 PM
use it, go on. These things are great. No need to worry about not having a bypass, it works fine.:P

4000GT
1st March 2010, 02:33 PM
So this turns the outlet 180 degrees to now face towards the inlet to run the pipes under the intake manifold?

NIZLAH
1st March 2010, 03:33 PM
use it, go on. These things are great. No need to worry about not having a bypass, it works fine.:P

Its not quite ideal as I had hoped for Matt, otherwise I would... I have something else in the pipe-works hopefully, fingers crossed.

NIZLAH
1st March 2010, 03:35 PM
So this turns the outlet 180 degrees to now face towards the inlet to run the pipes under the intake manifold?

It faces the outlet towards the rad in rwd application...... These are mainly used in clubman set-ups but suit other rwd (AE/KE) set-ups quite well..

4000GT
1st March 2010, 04:03 PM
Ah, so this is at the front of the motor, so the line no longer goes to the pump?

So whats the path then, pump to bottom of radiator, this product for sale then passes to the top of the radiator? And ports at the back? Whats the reasoning of the change in water path?

NIZLAH
1st March 2010, 04:10 PM
Ah, so this is at the front of the motor, so the line no longer goes to the pump?

Correct....... So either use a jdm pump set-up or run the bottom rad hose into the back of the fwd pump.

4000GT
1st March 2010, 04:13 PM
Thanks for the reply. I edited my response, couple more thoughts! I have a heavily modified blacktop 20v with stock water pump.

NIZLAH
1st March 2010, 04:29 PM
Thanks for the reply. I edited my response, couple more thoughts! I have a heavily modified blacktop 20v with stock water pump.


yeah no worries... I always confuse myself with the direction of flow etc, but I'm pretty sure it goes ------> bottom rad outlet into back of waterpump, then into block, through head and through rear bypass plate (Sam Q's for example) back through head and out the top outlet (Yager fitting) and into the top of the rad. This way there is no bypass, I was planning on modding it to fit one as I already have the RWD pump, but its not really needed as the thermostat is housed in the Yager fitting.

Hope that helps.... (Matt aka. LittleRedSpirit) should be able to help with any uncertainty's if you swing him a pm, he knows what he is talking about.

Niz

4000GT
1st March 2010, 04:35 PM
Sounds like a clean solution, just need to get my head around the rear ports!

Sam-Q
1st March 2010, 05:40 PM
it's a very clean solution,

I think what you need to do is have a look this for your answers on rear ports:

http://s-86.com/s-newcoolingguide.html

LittleRedSpirit
1st March 2010, 05:43 PM
If you already have a fwd water pump installed you can just block off the port behind the extractors, then redivert the water straight back into the motor at the back of the head. This is done by either welding some metal accross the stock rear thermostat housing to delete the thermostat and radiator hose connection, or by using a machined samq style plate accross it. Either way you want to retain the temp sensors there, at the rear of the head. Then the water is let out of the motor at the yager thermostat fitting, and passes through the radiator to get drawn into the waterpump again.

I use this system, it works fine so i say go for it. I do have a cold rev limit thats rather low and then run an underdrive pulley on the waterpump. I dont think either of these is necessary, just dont rev it too hard until its warm, but you shouldnt do that anyhow.:P

4000GT
1st March 2010, 06:19 PM
Doesnt this mean the water runs in reverse to the stock path?

Sam-Q
1st March 2010, 06:48 PM
Doesnt this mean the water runs in reverse to the stock path?

yes but only in the port above the throttle bodies, nothing to do with the block to head cooling

LittleRedSpirit
1st March 2010, 06:54 PM
It just means that the water is intercepted and cycled through the radiator at a different point. The main critiscism is the water cooling the inlets last. if you want it to work as Toyota intended 100% then spend 800USD to get the techno toy tuning kit. How careful are most people about inlet temps anyhow? If you just have trumpets in an open engine bay then you need not worry about where the water is intercepted. if you were running an airbox over the throttles then there would be more point to using the TTT kit.

4000GT
1st March 2010, 07:09 PM
Thanks for the comments, sorry for the OT thread starter.

NIZLAH
7th March 2010, 12:33 PM
Still available guys....

Sam-Q
7th March 2010, 12:57 PM
hey Niz do you want me to get a bypass hose tig welded onto it for you?

NIZLAH
7th March 2010, 02:56 PM
hey Niz do you want me to get a bypass hose tig welded onto it for you?

Nah I'm good Sam, I want to run a different outlet.... cheers though...

ichigo1
8th March 2010, 10:31 PM
I like to get one please can you send bank details to send money and then can you post to Perth

NIZLAH
8th March 2010, 10:34 PM
I like to get one please can you send bank details to send money and then can you post to Perth

Sent you a pm mate....

NIZLAH
11th March 2010, 06:54 PM
I like to get one please can you send bank details to send money and then can you post to Perth

waste of my time,

still for sale guys...... Don't leave comments like this if your gonna be straight rude and not reply to pm's or follow through..

NIZLAH
16th March 2010, 06:15 PM
bump some more

NIZLAH
23rd March 2010, 05:56 PM
still here ......

NIZLAH
27th March 2010, 10:48 AM
Sold............