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slider4life
7th March 2010, 09:01 AM
hi guys as it states im having some issues with the cooling of my 20v. so heres whats happend so far,

i only picked the car up about 2 weeks ago and it ran at about 80 to 100 deg on a drift gauge there is in cabin, the sensor is located at the back of the head were you block off an outlet. i had to replace a heater hose so i dropped the coolant and fixed hose topped back up started the car made sure there was no air lock in the head. car got around the 100 to 115 mark then id shut it down, no pressure in the bottom hose, i know fixed that after abit of searching around found a stuffed rad cap. that issue is now fixed and i have pressure in bottom rad hose and it sits on about 95 deg at idle.also i have put a new thermostat in and it opens at 82deg, and thermos come on at 80 to 85.

my problem i cant fix is that driving around town it sits at about 90 -95 but when i drop back a gear and give it u gut full of revs the temp gauge drops to 70deg as quick as the revs come up from 2000rpm to 4000rpm then i back of it sits at that temp and then slowly rises again till it reaches 90 95 deg.

the only assumption i have is the water pump isnt spinning hard enough and when i give it a boot ful of revs it spinns harder and forces water into the block. im so lost right now dose any one else know what it may be

Sam-Q
7th March 2010, 09:05 AM
needs pics of what you have to make sure someone hasn't put a bypass in the system. Have you changed the thermostat as it sounds like it's getting stuck.

slider4life
7th March 2010, 09:39 AM
yeah mate i changed thermostat twice cause i thought the same

Sam-Q
7th March 2010, 09:42 AM
now I don't want to sound patronising but did you put a twin stage thermostat in there? not a single stage?

Have you inspected your water pump?

It would not be the head gasket there is no pressure buildup.

What rear plate are you using on your head

slider4life
7th March 2010, 10:04 AM
ok you got me a little of gaurd there im pretty sure it is the thermostate has like a tail on it is this right.

havent inspected water pump not to sure what im lookin for it dosent leak i know that.

i dont think it head gasket the collant is clean no real blow by ect.

the plate looks like it made out of alloy it shiney

Jonny Rochester
7th March 2010, 10:06 AM
If you have a 20v conversion in a RWD, you had better show us what conversion bits you have. There are a number of ways to do the water setup. Do you have a clear map in your mind of where the water flows?

Sam-Q
7th March 2010, 10:10 AM
yeah as above, we need pics

slider4life
7th March 2010, 10:12 AM
to be honest no, this is what i have in my head on how it works, top rad hose to head threw bloc, past the sensor in back of block down to thermostat then bottom hose at that bottom hose it tees off and goes to heater tap to heater in cabin then back out of cabin, from there i think it goes to back of block maybe i will have to check as i havent had car long so not to familiar with it. i cant post pics as im at work will as soon as i can to help you understand.

slider4life
7th March 2010, 10:25 AM
i just had a quick look at it and the top description is right except were the heater hose comes out of the back of the cabin it goes behind the block down to a metal tube then to the back of the water pump thanks guys hope that helps

Jonny Rochester
7th March 2010, 10:29 AM
It sounds like your confused about your water setup.

The water pump forces water into the front of the block. The water goes up past the headgasket into the head. In the 20v, the water is dirrected to the rear of the head. The water comes out the back of the head somewhere, and you should have made a rear fitting to route the water back into the right side hole in the back of the head. From here the water travels along a passage in the right side of the head, to the front. Then you need a water outlet (I make and sell this) at the front of the head. Then it goes in the hose to the radiator. From the bottom rad hose, if goes into the RWD waterpump via the thermostate.

The heater is seperate. It can be deleted. Or you can fit the heater pipes anywhere you like.

A small bypass is wanted for water to go around the thermostate when it is closed. This is often made part of the thermostate housing, but you often have to hook up a pipe to make it work.

slider4life
7th March 2010, 11:25 AM
hey guys i got a few pics to help out but not sure how to post them up. god i hate being computer stupid it says in the help to creat an album in your control panel but i cant find that button

lolwat
7th March 2010, 11:35 AM
hey guys i got a few pics to help out but not sure how to post them up. god i hate being computer stupid it says in the help to creat an album in your control panel but i cant find that button
godzilla_gtr_92@hotmail.com email them to me i iwll put them up

slider4life
7th March 2010, 11:56 AM
email sent hope you can make sence of the pics

lolwat
7th March 2010, 12:04 PM
pics coming now one sec

lolwat
7th March 2010, 12:06 PM
90289030902990319032

slider4life
7th March 2010, 12:21 PM
thanks mate

Sam-Q
7th March 2010, 01:24 PM
I see what looks like a Kaizen rear block off plate, modified OEM 20V bull horn pipe, trd copy extractors, blocked off idle control valve, 4Ac water pump and a potential problem.

In the last pic you have a 5/8 hose running off the back of the top water pipe, where does that go?

slider4life
7th March 2010, 01:35 PM
I see what looks like a Kaizen rear block off plate, modified OEM 20V bull horn pipe, trd copy extractors, blocked off idle control valve, 4Ac water pump and a potential problem.

In the last pic you have a 5/8 hose running off the back of the top water pipe, where does that go?



it goes to the heater tap then to cabin back out of cabin to the metal pipe under that 5/8 hose to back of water pump

Sam-Q
7th March 2010, 01:43 PM
well thats wrong for a start, that means hot water is sitting in your heater core at all times and negates much of the point of the heater tap. It's meant to be back of head/top water pipe to heater flow control tap to heater core in to heater core out to back of water pump. This won't cause an overheating problem. Have a look at the plate on the back of the head and tell us how thick it is. Its on the intake side next to the dizzy.

slider4life
7th March 2010, 01:51 PM
it looks to be about 5cm thick with three sensors the one closest to the exhaust side has a white end nothin is hooked up the top has a plug wich i think is conected to my haltec and the one on the inlet side has on spade terminal male and isnt hooked up either there semms to be one big block off plate at the back made out of the same material as the one on the side with the sensor

Sam-Q
7th March 2010, 01:55 PM
I know it's hard but get you get a pic of that? I suggest you take the front of your pump off and make sure the impellors are intact

lolwat
7th March 2010, 02:03 PM
and beofre you take your pump see if there's any play in the pulley, to see if the bearings in it are farked

slider4life
7th March 2010, 02:26 PM
here is pic of backing plate

slider4life
7th March 2010, 02:28 PM
first pic is of top of motor facing to floor that plug for my haltec i think second pic is from extractor side thanks guys

lolwat
7th March 2010, 02:30 PM
fucking hell someone like there loctite red elastic

Sam-Q
7th March 2010, 02:33 PM
crude but providing it has a channel on the inside it should be ok, if your pump proves to me ok this may need to come off next

slider4life
7th March 2010, 02:36 PM
oh sooo gay that equals motor out

Sam-Q
7th March 2010, 02:41 PM
no I don't think so, if you undo your engine mounts and trans mounts completely when the thing has it's weight supported you should be able to swing it forward enough to get your hands in there to take it off. If you want a slim replacement let me know.

slider4life
7th March 2010, 02:55 PM
no worries sam-q so dose this need to have gallaries in it what am i looking for????

Sam-Q
7th March 2010, 03:03 PM
you need to have a read of this:

http://s-86.com/s-newcoolingguide.html



http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/5/2/38639.jpg

(1) needs to join to (2)

slider4life
7th March 2010, 03:42 PM
thanks sam q ill look into it and let you know how i go and what parts i may need. awsome cooling thread you have mate much help

Sam-Q
7th March 2010, 03:48 PM
sure thing, you keep us all updated ok?

H8CHIR6KU
7th March 2010, 04:50 PM
when you say your fans come in at 80-85 degrees does that mean they turn on at 80 deg then turn off at 85??

slider4life
8th March 2010, 10:09 AM
no comes on at about 80 85 deg then stays on until it gets cooler then that temp

FAST EDDIE
8th March 2010, 10:32 AM
i dont know much about 20v cooling setups, more 16v, but what about the fact the guage may be faulty???

Anthony
8th March 2010, 11:08 AM
The 5/8 hose coming out of the modded top water outlet is to go the bypass, not the heater. I would plumb this back the steel pipe that tuns out the back of the water pump, ignore the heater for a bit and see if that fixes things - it should. Once it's working you can look at plumbing the heater in correctly.

slider4life
8th March 2010, 01:33 PM
i will try that right now and let you know how i go. i also have a thermo gun what temp should i be reading at the back of the head im reading from 90 deg to 110 deg is this too hot or not. as in sam-q thread it says its not unusal for it to run hotter but what temp is hotter for these engines thanks guys im slowly getting there

slider4life
8th March 2010, 02:40 PM
so i just disconnected the heater and ran the pipe off the top of the hose to the back of the water pump to act as a by pass. temp sits at about 95 deg as it sits on idle then if i give it a free rev to 4 grand about three times it gets to 80 deg. this to me means there is no flow still in the block there for i need to take that back plate off to see if it has a channel cut into it for flow.

or is it my water pump not spinneing quick enough and as i rev it it flows better??????

this is :steamer:

Sam-Q
8th March 2010, 10:31 PM
hold on back of the pump? can you get a good picture of your pump as it is? it should go to the top of the pump

Anthony that position in the top outlet can be used for the heater

slider4life
10th March 2010, 09:35 AM
yeah it comes from the back of the pump not the top the top is blocked off for some reason??? dose this not work that way sam-q??

86JAP
10th March 2010, 06:37 PM
bloody hell man, cant wait to see this shit fight of a cooling setup u got this weekend!! lol

Sam-Q
10th March 2010, 08:58 PM
definately no, it should go into the top of the water pump or else you have made yourself a radiator bypass. Block it off for now and try it like that.

slider4life
12th March 2010, 08:10 AM
sam_q i can totally understand that would work as a by pass but for some unusual reason it has worked the car gets to about 95 deg and dosent move from there it may go down to 80 deg when im up it for the rent but ither then that it good. do you think i should leave it the way it is or should i change it the way it should be as it is proven. as they say go with what works. although im not sure how this is working to be honest.

Sam-Q
12th March 2010, 01:21 PM
I need a pic of the water pump, I don't want any mistakes