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View Full Version : Distributor VS. CAS



blair
25th October 2010, 09:28 PM
Car - 86

motor - 4a BP head on Silvertop Bottom.

use - pedovan

problem - I don't understand/ cant find good enough photos.

Whats the go between 4age bigport distributor, and 4agze CAS?
(only in terms of mounting) from all the photos i can find, it only looks like CAS has one lobe to bolt through, where my bigport distributor has 2? (to keep it central when adjusting i suppose)

occurs/started when - Going COP and CAS with standalone Ignition :D

personal situation - i have aids. always puts a dampener on alot of situations.

BP 2 lobes:
http://i.pbase.com/u14/aw11mr2/large/38687485.PICT0174.jpg

CAS 1 lobe?:
http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/0/146331400_full.jpg
http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/73/146331373_full.jpg
http://i.ebayimg.com/12/!B6S(pvw!Wk~$(KGrHqUOKjEEyVN)tq8oBMw5v1Lk(w~~_12.J PG

I'm missing something obvious, arent I?

takai
25th October 2010, 11:08 PM
Number of ears doesnt matter, they just lock it down. Ive cut one of the ears off my dizzy to get the exhaust manifold off more easily.

Big difference is inside. The GZE CAS is a 24-1 setup, whereas the Bigport dizzy is a 4 tooth hall effect.

blair
25th October 2010, 11:25 PM
Coolio sounds good then :)

ke70dave
26th October 2010, 01:48 PM
Number of ears doesnt matter, they just lock it down. Ive cut one of the ears off my dizzy to get the exhaust manifold off more easily.

Big difference is inside. The GZE CAS is a 24-1 setup, whereas the Bigport dizzy is a 4 tooth hall effect.

the bigport dizzy also has a 24tooth wheel in it as well.

it has 2 pickups in it, one for the 24tooth wheel, and one for the 4tooth wheel.

the smallport dizzy (and GZE cas), has 3 pickups, a 24tooth wheel, and also (from what i recall) 2 sensors on a 2 tooth wheel.

the smallport/gze setup knows when each piston is at TDC, so it can run sequential injectors.

where as the bigport dizzy only knows when a piston is at TDC (doesnt know which one it is, just knows one is at TDC), and runs batch on the injectors.

more info here

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=49983

Skylar
26th October 2010, 02:18 PM
It don't really matter. You can use either.

If you run smallport distributor/CAS thing with the 24/1/1, you use the 24 tooth and G2 (IIRC) on the single notch wheel. If you use bigport distributor with the 24/4 tooth wheels, you cut 3 teeth off the 4 tooth wheel to get you a reset and run the 24 tooth wheel. Both set ups will get you full sequential operation.
If whatever ECU you have only has one engine speed input you use the 24 tooth wheel and cut two opposing teeth off making it a 12-1 setup. This setup can only run waste spark/banked injection on 4 cyl.

Then again distributor is perfectly fine until you start running big rpms.

timbo
26th October 2010, 02:24 PM
aren't you running carbs blair?

blair
26th October 2010, 02:30 PM
Sure am :)

But wanting to get an ignition curve to stop blowing motors up! while i'm at it, may aswel go COP and CAS to make the system all yummy!

blair
26th October 2010, 02:32 PM
p.s. i'm not cutting teeth off a distributor... thats too super cool for me

timbo
26th October 2010, 04:11 PM
oh right, rather than set/constant advance?

i would also agree on not cutting teeth, sounds el-dodgerino

Skylar
26th October 2010, 04:24 PM
Why is it dodgey? It's just a spike on a piece of metal. Mate runs his rally car on link g3 or g4 like that. Works fine to 8500rpm.

Also, why not just keep standard ecu and let that run the timing? or by standalone ignition, do you mean tuneable ECU?

blair
26th October 2010, 04:41 PM
I dont fucken have an ECU!

I have twin Carbs. Have been running them for like 3 years with standard dizzy standard plugs and leads. runs a bosch module which keeps timing constant (so have to set static/idle timing at where i want it to be at top revs)

which means it sits at around 30deg at idle = poooooooooooo.

Standalone ignition is just that. it will control the ignition only. gets a pulse from the CAS and works it out from there using a curve/timing change point (timing vs. revs)

takai
26th October 2010, 05:15 PM
Then machine up an adaptor for a 4K dizzy. That way you can use the vac advance or get the weights recurved for it.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/3/0/4/0/55802.jpg

http://img277.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/1/3/3/8/ms65crown-img600x450-1223741832akjfnk78603.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/3/0/4/0/55804.jpg

blair
26th October 2010, 07:15 PM
I've looked at that option.

I would rather go to coilpacks and a better ignition system overall that is adjustable without having to fuck around with changing weights or machining/welding. I've melted a couple of dizzy's now. even with a heat shield.

I also have an odd break down somewhere, when it gets hot after ALOT of labour it doesnt like to revv. i've tried brand new plugs and reconditioned dizzy's and new leads etc etc but cant seem to figure it out!





Funny how you ask one simple question (NOT seeking for advice) and people try and build your car for you the way they think it should be built.

(N)

timbo
26th October 2010, 11:44 PM
lol. agreed.

shut it down!