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View Full Version : Lock spacers and custom steering arms



trikzlane
29th November 2010, 08:33 PM
hey guys, i want to modify my steering arms for more lock. (i want more than pwr steer arms give)

what i want to know is does anyone have sketchs/demenions/drawings/plans etc.. on what angles and how to archive more lock but retaining ackermans.

dont give me your opions if you havnt done it, i want to speak to the people who have and know there shit

thanks,
mereki.

ae71ness
29th November 2010, 08:45 PM
have a look at ae70s drift 4agte ke70, he has a picture of his modified knuckles. the proof is in the pudding with those babies.

trikzlane
29th November 2010, 09:09 PM
have seen them but im looking for a specs plan on how far to more parts and so on

shift_rook
29th November 2010, 09:45 PM
who'll be doing the welding, just buy the same as what davey's rocking/ i'm rocking, i hit a gutter at about 40 k's and bent the arm but the weld didn't budge so they're seriously strong, hit me up if you want contact details, ackermans is fiddled with but my steering feels so freaking sweet, wouldn't have it any other way now

Delazy
29th November 2010, 10:10 PM
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/12389-custom-steering-Knuckles-and-getting-max-lock

bit of reading for you...

the lock itself generally isnt alot more than ps knuckles with lock spacer...but the actual difference it makes to how the car drives is certainly apparent

trikzlane
29th November 2010, 10:12 PM
mate is a fitter and turner, makes custom s13 lock knuckles, so he want to trial these on my car, it free so im happy

also i found a thread on custom knuckles so all is good, will keep looking

trikzlane
29th November 2010, 10:12 PM
thats the thread i found already, thanks anyway

trikzlane
29th November 2010, 10:36 PM
read the whole thread but there doesnt seem to be any length, just different opinons

kaibeecee
29th November 2010, 11:45 PM
first off, what steering arms are you modifying, PS or standard?

if standard, take out about 10-12mm at first. measure the offset of the hole to the centre of the arm at its widest point. try to keep a similar measurement ackermans wise. the best thing to do is just experiment

Sam-Q
30th November 2010, 05:07 PM
why not just use the power steering arms and run a lock spacer? or mod the tie rod ends?

Sam-Q
30th November 2010, 05:16 PM
hey how about a quaife rack

70XIN
30th November 2010, 05:25 PM
PS arms + lock spacer/modified tie rod ends is win

Do you have a low enough offset/small enough width to actually USE more lock than that? Robs little 7's hit the inner guard with that setup and plenty of castor..

trikzlane
30th November 2010, 06:34 PM
have lock spacer, reason im doing this is my mate does s13 knuckles and said he trial some corolla ones for me, so there gunna be free
and seamus, i guess ill find out, spacers if it rubs

Sam-Q
30th November 2010, 06:41 PM
ok how about a second lock spacer? do you like the feeling of quicker steering?

H8CHIR6KU
30th November 2010, 06:56 PM
this months issue of drift tengoku is based around modded lock arms. they even how they make them step by step and why they do what they do.

only useful tho if you can read japanese. but pictures tell a thousand words etc etc

AJPS
30th November 2010, 07:39 PM
this months issue of drift tengoku is based around modded lock arms. they even how they make them step by step and why they do what they do.

only useful tho if you can read japanese. but pictures tell a thousand words etc etc

Wish the pic = 1000 words worked in school

trikzlane
30th November 2010, 08:15 PM
this months issue of drift tengoku is based around modded lock arms. they even how they make them step by step and why they do what they do.

only useful tho if you can read japanese. but pictures tell a thousand words etc etc

dont surpose you could scan the pages and post

H8CHIR6KU
1st December 2010, 12:41 AM
Wish the pic = 1000 words worked in school

hahahahahahaha gold!!

i would if i could but i dont have a scanner yet

hopefully within the month i will get one.

Skylar
1st December 2010, 12:52 AM
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/7/5/59890.jpg

That's the only page you really need to see.

And you might not keep the same ackermann stuff if you're aiming for more angle as the bulbous part at the end may hit the control arm so you need to move them out.

Skylar
1st December 2010, 12:57 AM
Probably help a lot if I explained what each picture is.

Top one is shortened arms only
middle is bulb moved out/losing ackerman/avoiding going overcentre
bottom is shortened and moved out

trikzlane
2nd December 2010, 09:05 AM
cheers man, i have a rough idea of what im going to do now

xsoarerx
30th December 2010, 11:55 PM
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/7/5/59890.jpg

That's the only page you really need to see.

And you might not keep the same ackermann stuff if you're aiming for more angle as the bulbous part at the end may hit the control arm so you need to move them out.

thats sick, any chance for a larger version of this pic? even if you email me the file.

Skylar
31st December 2010, 01:28 AM
Is that a resize by photobucket or is that the scanner's size. Can I change the size the scanner scans at?

I hate that scanner. Took me 3 months to figure out that it could actually scan stuff.

Skylar
31st December 2010, 03:15 PM
Nevermind, the pic created by the scanner is 2400xsomething-else-really-big.

email?

ke_70
1st January 2011, 08:36 PM
can you post a link mabey?

Skylar
1st January 2011, 09:17 PM
a link to that picture?

???

assassin10000
1st January 2011, 11:22 PM
Yeah, a link to the fullsize picture.

Or email it to me and I'll resize/post it. Take my 'username' and add @hotmail.com

Andrew

ke_70
1st January 2011, 11:26 PM
Take my 'username' and add @hotmail.com

Andrew

:DD lol

Skylar
1st January 2011, 11:56 PM
There is no link to full size picture, unless you want the location of the file on my hard drive where the scanner put it.

you've got an email Andrew.

P.S. fuck photobucket for not having a upload without resize feature.

assassin10000
2nd January 2011, 12:11 AM
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g122/plate2169/MISC/doriconnakuru.jpg

I also found I had uploaded/saved these a couple years ago, if they're of any interest to you guys.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g122/plate2169/MISC/doriten1.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g122/plate2169/MISC/doriten2.jpg


Andrew

Skylar
2nd January 2011, 12:14 AM
I think I have that mag too. and one more from four years ago showing all the different available knuckles on the market. I think that one even had FC and AE86.

xsoarerx
2nd January 2011, 12:47 PM
lol... funny story, i have that mag and didnt realise.

was in the pile of mags i brought back after last trip and didnt read *facepalm*

Tim.duncan
4th January 2011, 04:15 PM
when welding the arms is there any tricks to it?

can you tig or mig them?

john84ie
3rd February 2011, 12:51 PM
need some help..puttin ae86 coilovers in my panelvan.just after takin the standard stuts out,trying to get the standard steering arm out and it wont budge,any tips on removing or am i missing something?i have power steering arms i want to fit,thanks

assassin10000
3rd February 2011, 01:41 PM
Ball joint tool.

Best one I've ever used is from honda... but its super pricey now!!!
http://www.clubrsx.com/graphics/00000001/07MAC-SL00200.gif


Andrew

johl
3rd February 2011, 09:01 PM
you can hold the lca in your hand with the steering arm on the ground and hit it with a hammer. it will pop it off

Sam-Q
3rd February 2011, 11:27 PM
I just put the castle nut upside down onto the tie rid shaft till it's flush with the end and then hit it hard with a hammer.

drift kid
18th July 2013, 12:06 PM
I am going to be making some new lca's and caster rods out of tube and rose joints, my only dilema is that the sway bar is much to wide and wont allow the wheel to turn inwards much more than full lock standard, has any body else had this issue?

4A-GE Power
18th July 2013, 01:15 PM
Loosen the castle nut on the tie rod end and smack the knuckle on the end near the taper with a hammer firmly until the taper pops. Won't damage the thread on the rod end or mankey your nut up if you want to reuse :)

Jacobxxx
18th July 2013, 08:18 PM
I am going to be making some new lca's and caster rods out of tube and rose joints, my only dilema is that the sway bar is much to wide and wont allow the wheel to turn inwards much more than full lock standard, has any body else had this issue?
Longer LCA's or smaller wheels

Skylar
18th July 2013, 10:12 PM
Extended arm but not with a rod end at the inner pivot. You want to extend the lca between the ball joint and the anti-roll bar/castor rod. Then play with offsets. I think you might need to run a higher offset to reduce the scrub radius.

Jacobxxx
18th July 2013, 10:16 PM
Extended arm but not with a rod end at the inner pivot. You want to extend the lca between the ball joint and the anti-roll bar/castor rod. Then play with offsets. I think you might need to run a higher offset to reduce the scrub radius.
THIS

This is why i'd never run adjustable arms, worst set ups ever.

cooter
18th July 2013, 10:16 PM
theres a yarn about 86 sway bars rubbing on the wheel at even basic locks ke70s. is it possible for you to try a ke70 swaybar in it? they have a little curved section just before the lca attaching point

edit
i assume the car in question is an 86

drift kid
18th July 2013, 10:37 PM
Yes it's my 86 tracker, why are you against adjustable arms jacob? And yeah I already run sigma arms shortened 10mm and I want to solve this issue with the wheels that I have

drift kid
18th July 2013, 10:39 PM
I'm thinking of trying a speedway car style front swaybar with the splined tortion bar and arm style so I can get it much narrower

johl
18th July 2013, 10:43 PM
there isnt anything wrong with adjustable arms, but just where they are adjusted. there is no benefit of adjusting the width between the rode joint and where the sway bar mounts. a much better alternative that almost no one uses is to make them adjustable between the ball joint and where the castor rod mounts. i believe that is what they were trying to say

Jacobxxx
18th July 2013, 10:48 PM
Yes it's my 86 tracker, why are you against adjustable arms jacob? And yeah I already run sigma arms shortened 10mm and I want to solve this issue with the wheels that I have

If you run adjustable LCA's it moves the swaybar mounting point with it giving you no extra clearance from your wheels.
For best clearance, try Standard LCA extended in between caster arm mount and ball joint.

drift kid
18th July 2013, 10:57 PM
Yeah true, but that is basically the setup I have now, I could go a little wider but it won't give me anywhere near enough clearance for the lock I'd like

Jacobxxx
18th July 2013, 11:00 PM
What size wheels are you running up front?

You could always shorten on the mount side and extend ball joint side, but there's only so far you can go.
Don't run a swaybar haha

jay70
18th July 2013, 11:04 PM
yeah try having a go with swaybar disconnected, or maybe try ke70 one? comes nowhere near hitting on mine

drift kid
18th July 2013, 11:08 PM
Running 15x10 -12 superlights
I could probably try a ke70 swaybar and yeah I have contemplated running no bar but the positives seem to outweigh the negatives

Jacobxxx
18th July 2013, 11:15 PM
10" is your issue, run 15x8 -4 superlite and you get 17mm more inner clearance but your outside position is 33mm further in, run 30mm bolt and boom 2" more clearance

lolwat
18th July 2013, 11:32 PM
Running 15x10 -12 superlights
I could probably try a ke70 swaybar and yeah I have contemplated running no bar but the positives seem to outweigh the negatives

ill talk to you about this tomorrow

jay70
18th July 2013, 11:38 PM
dang, should really just ditch the 10s. they don't even look good anyway?

drift kid
19th July 2013, 06:18 AM
Nah like I said, I love my 10's and they wont be going, just thought others may have dealt with this issue before

meadan
19th July 2013, 09:19 AM
If the ke70 one doesnt work out, I would just look at getting a custom swaybar made up.

We got some done for some landcruisers about 2 years ago and they didnt cost much more than a whiteline one. You give them the measurements and they will bend one up exactly to your specs..Cant remember the name of the mob, but I know theyre in Sydney somewhere....

Other than that, it might feel fine to drive without a front swaybar, seeing the car is only for skids. You might need to remove or adjust the rear one to get the balance right, it all depends on how you drive and what feels good to you.

drift kid
19th July 2013, 09:40 AM
Yeah that's another option that I'm looking at, probably the most cost effective solution, I'd love to take the bars out and run it like that etc too just to feel it out and see what is does differently

drift kid
2nd September 2013, 05:40 PM
Okay so my setup is now this
Front:
-removed swaybar
-sigma lca's (shortened 10mm)
-ae86 struts w/ HSD coil conv w/ae92 length inserts and 7kg/mm springs
-t3 cambertops & uppder hat system
-knuckles cut and corrected (about 50mm shorter)
-40mm rca's
- stock caster arm's wound all the way forwars.
-camber set at -4*
-toe set at as close to zero as possible by eye but possibly up to -1*

Rear:
-GAZ comp coilovers w/ 6kg/mm springs
-stock swaybar
-equal length upper/lower trailing arms
-panhard shortened
-all new urethane bushes

This setup feels absolutely amazing and could not recommended a setup like this more, definately very oversteerish but it isn't ridiculous and annoying, had a blast with how it felt.

Jacobxxx
2nd September 2013, 06:21 PM
Notice much difference between no swagbar?

drift kid
2nd September 2013, 07:25 PM
Yeah I'd say that is where the oversteerish tendancy is coming from, and I'd say that a stiffer rear bar would make it more so