CA/SR Conversions into AEs and KEs

[bennyq]

This thread is for all questions regarding the install of CAs and SRs into AEs and KEs.

Questions in regard to S13 struts go elsewhere.

[tezza88]

Its not that bad mate
after you weld the mounts in - no firewall bashing/cutting= fits shifter location but engine sits far forward or cut the wall and better balance? up to u
i also hear the R33 non turbo gearbox makes shifter location so much better which means less cutting into ur shell.
Heaps of guys on the forum has done it already, just search around. I'm in the middle of working on one with a mate also.
I'm not too sure how much extra or if its worth using the Pulsar version justr because its FWD and for 20v 4age (FWD) to RWD cars, waterpump/lines and dizzy needed to be converted
and the lack of power without the turbo probably not worth the work?
If possible, i'd sell the SR and probably buy a 4age to bolt in without any fabrications. (but thats just me)
Other guys who'd finish their SRbuilds would probably have a better understanding of the difficulty

[stx-16]

it is really fucking eazy i done mine in less then 5months and less then $3000
but bad news is you cant use the fwd sr20 sell it and get a rwd one
if you need any hep at all like about mounts or what ever just ask me and ill help you out

[Matt-AE86]

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/20507-SR20-CA18-engine-gearbox-mount-kits-to-AE-KE-chassis!!

[FAST EDDIE]

not hard have done one in my ae86 and one in my ke70, used the 86 engine xmember in the sprinter to retain steering geometry and used teh s13 engine x member in the ke70 which makes it realy a bolt in affair

[bennyq]

cheers for all the help guys. i had a feeling the fwd sr20 was going to make this difficult, but im optimistic and believe it isnt impossible. i dont see pulsar sr20s go for much, so i cant see the point in selling it really.
ive done a little bit of reading and seen that rb20 gearbox's fit well for the conversion? i didnt think they would bolt up to an sr20?
i was planning to get the gearbox out of a wrecked silvia or something like that...

[Skylar]

pulsar = distributor at back of head like 20v. Throttle body is at back of motor no? Does RWD manifold bolt up? If you bolt a RWD head on, one of the bolts on the oil pump/timing cover is in the wrong spot(not hard to deal with).

fwd is wideblock isn't it? I dunno what that mean in relation to rwd'ing a motor though.

To run RB20 transmission, you need to swap the front housing off an SR20 trans. Only advantage to this is it brings the shifter 50mm closer to the engine (and away from the handbrake).

[Sam-Q]

pulsar = distributor at back of head like 20v. Throttle body is at back of motor no? Does RWD manifold bolt up? If you bolt a RWD head on, one of the bolts on the oil pump/timing cover is in the wrong spot(not hard to deal with).

fwd is wideblock isn't it? I dunno what that mean in relation to rwd'ing a motor though.

To run RB20 transmission, you need to swap the front housing off an SR20 trans. Only advantage to this is it brings the shifter 50mm closer to the engine (and away from the handbrake).

I think that engine has quad throttles

anyone want this to be a universal sr20 conversion thread? I can make it a sticky

[bennyq]

i would like for it to be a universal sr20 conversion thread :) the more information the better i say! cheers.

[stx-16]

only gtir's have itb's

[matt99]

Ive done it.

SOO easy.

S13 crossmember, SR box, so many things just bolt up.

[kaibeecee]

S13 member is messy though. you've got to deal with a S-chassis PS rack and blocking the lines or using the 86 rack. and unless you're going to use S13 LCA's and other front ancilliaries, its a pain to use the 86 LCA's etc.

FWD motors aren't the best to convert to RWD, but it is possible.

things to look out for:

-RWD exhaust manifold
-RWD intake manifold & fuel lines
-RWD engine mounts (from block to intermediate mount)
-distributor is at the rear on some motors, you can get a SR20det loom and go ignitor/coilpacks which is tidy.
-RWD box/starter/bellhousing plate
-YES, I can supply engine & box mounts to suit RB20 engine mounts to mount SR motors into AE chassis. cheaply.

[Gunner]

Pretty sure a RWD SR box will not bolt to a FWD SR engine.

[matt99]

S13 member is messy though. you've got to deal with a S-chassis PS rack and blocking the lines or using the 86 rack. and unless you're going to use S13 LCA's and other front ancilliaries, its a pain to use the 86 LCA's etc.

Messy?

Puts the engine in a perfect spot in relation to the struts. All you do with the steering is use a S12 rack and either R31, S12 or S13 LCA's (<order shortest to longest) SOO easy and all bolts up.

[Sam-Q]

Messy?

Puts the engine in a perfect spot in relation to the struts. All you do with the steering is use a S12 rack and either R31, S12 or S13 LCA's (<order shortest to longest) SOO easy and all bolts up.

how do you join the corolla column to the nissan rack? you used the S13 coilovers right?

[Sam-Q]

i would like for it to be a universal sr20 conversion thread :) the more information the better i say! cheers.

alright I have edited the original post contents and title to suit. I am looking at making a main directory type listing so this will not be a sticky for now.

[matt99]

how do you join the corolla column to the nissan rack? you used the S13 coilovers right?

Yes, I used BASE HEIGHT ADJUSTABE S13 coilovers.
Theres a few ways to go about doing this:
The first way (best way): Get the uni that joins the rack in both your 86 and a S12/13. Take them to a uni place/tailshaft place/bearing place and tell them what you want. They will either make magic with your two, or make a custom one.
Second way: Cut the bottom off a S12/13 steering column, then cut the bottom of the 86 one, place a sleeve over one end, butt them together, weld them, grind them smooth, slide sleeve over weld and weld the sleeve in place.
Or then theres the third way, which is how I did it, and I recon its a bit shit, hence I wont mention it.

Concidering this is now a tech article, I will come back later this evening and heavily detail my whole build.

[coreyballs]

Hi im just wondering if anyone knows where i can get an alloy radiator (2 or 3 core) for my ae86 with a sr20 thats not custom in brisbane? has anyone had this problem? cheers for your time...

[foamy]

Hi im just wondering if anyone knows where i can get an alloy radiator (2 or 3 core) for my ae86 with a sr20 thats not custom in brisbane? has anyone had this problem? cheers for your time...


I can get you one from NZ from a company called Fenix radiators. Your probably looking at $400 to your door.
Their website is: http://www.fenixautopart.com/ (AE86 radiators aren't listed there but I know their NZ branch stock them). We deal with them a fair bit through work, for the quality and the money you pay you can't really go wrong.
If you punch in race3388 into their search, you could probably even adapt that radiator to fit...

[worked]

if you can retain the ae crossmember and suspension do it, i found the s13 frontend a bit odd feeling, and the binding issue on full lock is a poofter

[worked]

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/5/7/551757.jpg

figured since it's a sticky for a conversion thread, and you need to wire it up, here is this bit of info

[matt99]

if you can retain the ae crossmember and suspension do it, i found the s13 frontend a bit odd feeling, and the binding issue on full lock is a poofter

Get out of my car Ed, haha.

[worked]

it looked like a c*nt in the big entry comp at basky. i know my ca ke sent me towards the main road at the last turn at basky once cos it bound up and i was too weak to wind lock out and too dumb to back off the throttle!

[kaibeecee]

Messy?

Puts the engine in a perfect spot in relation to the struts. All you do with the steering is use a S12 rack and either R31, S12 or S13 LCA's (<order shortest to longest) SOO easy and all bolts up.

see thats too messy. other option: get an ae crossmember and a mount kit, keep stock rack, uni, steering arms and the rest. what you're listing would add a whole week or two of sourcing parts and labour. puts engine in proper spot and blah blah blah. an SR/13 rack & crossmember is more expensive than an AE one in comparison. so your price example would DEFINITELY inflate for anyone else (unless they know people or shops or whatever.)


Yes, I used BASE HEIGHT ADJUSTABE S13 coilovers.
Theres a few ways to go about doing this:
The first way (best way): Get the uni that joins the rack in both your 86 and a S12/13. Take them to a uni place/tailshaft place/bearing place and tell them what you want. They will either make magic with your two, or make a custom one.
Second way: Cut the bottom off a S12/13 steering column, then cut the bottom of the 86 one, place a sleeve over one end, butt them together, weld them, grind them smooth, slide sleeve over weld and weld the sleeve in place.
Or then theres the third way, which is how I did it, and I recon its a bit shit, hence I wont mention it.

Concidering this is now a tech article, I will come back later this evening and heavily detail my whole build.

again, too hard and messy. and cutting/welding steering components is illegal for those who want to engineer their package. keeping the AE rack and member would eliminate all that wasteful modification that you've just listed.

i don't mean to come off as a self absorbed prick or someone thats pumping their own product, but its just the truth. the idea of it is to do the motor and box relatively simply, not adding TOO many custom parts into the mix which would affect their car should they want to revert it to a 4A or similar down the track.

[worked]

have a spell mate, reply to my pm so i can buy your shit, then go back to caining matt russell!!

i think your missing a point tho, up until your kit, what else could people do? make their own? yes but then you can't return it to standard like you say in your post
yes people have gone a messier route, but only through a complete lack of an alternative really

[kaibeecee]

just replying to your PM now :)

previously i guess people just modified the existing mounts on the member, or customised stock SR ones. no way of knowing really, there's a hundred ways to do it!

each to their own though. i will say, there is no right or wrong way to do things, so please don't think i'm trying to say so, but there is a cost and labour effective way around everything while still getting a solidly reliable result :)

[worked]

the sr x-member conversion was the most cost effective method which had a few drawbacks unfortunately, but some bonuses (huge lock with NP knuckles)
alot of people have had sucess with the s13 crossmember, leigh pidwell, lloyd smith, simon michelmore.......*cough*matt russell*cough*

[matt99]

see thats too messy. other option: get an ae crossmember and a mount kit, keep stock rack, uni, steering arms and the rest. what you're listing would add a whole week or two of sourcing parts and labour. puts engine in proper spot and blah blah blah. an SR/13 rack & crossmember is more expensive than an AE one in comparison. so your price example would DEFINITELY inflate for anyone else (unless they know people or shops or whatever.)



again, too hard and messy. and cutting/welding steering components is illegal for those who want to engineer their package. keeping the AE rack and member would eliminate all that wasteful modification that you've just listed.

i don't mean to come off as a self absorbed prick or someone thats pumping their own product, but its just the truth. the idea of it is to do the motor and box relatively simply, not adding TOO many custom parts into the mix which would affect their car should they want to revert it to a 4A or similar down the track.

Time for sourcing: One day (one trip to wreckers).

S13 crossmember - I paid $20ea for both of mine.
S12 rack - $50ea.
S12 LCA's - Managed to get them all for free.
Couplings I have found are about $30.

Benefit's- MASSIVE range of coilovers availible. Big brakes. Longer travel in S12 compared to AE.
Theres no cutting and welding of steering components NEEDED to complete it this way, its just udually desired.

This is the way I built my first one and im BASICALLY doing it the same again in my good one.
I still can revert back to 4A very easily. I cost's really jack all to do and opens your options up much more.

Honestly, just because I have done it this way doesnt bias my opinion, I still think this is a better (and cheaper (for me maybe?)) way to do it.

[kaibeecee]

thats OK if you can do that all for cheap, but others dont have the same knowledge/sources to get all that for cheap. dunno about your area but S12 racks don't come along every day at the wrecker. and it seems like a lot of parts for the same result. but horses for courses ;)

what do you do for a gearbox mount?

[matt99]

S12's pop up a bit at the wreckers here. Safe to say theres always at least one in stock at each of the wreckers in Melbournes East. I think those prices are reletively normal for anyone to get, I see crossmembers pop up for $100 but they never sell for that, bit of price crunching helps.

Gearbox crossmember depends on what gearbox/bellhousing combination your using. All custom of course. In my case SR bellhousing with S13 box, use the standard S13 rubber mount and the holes needed for that and the holes in the 86 body are all in line, so a simple straight bit of steel/etc. is easy enough to knock up. For RB box's you need to make one that goes forward a little, and RB25 boxes with SR bellhousing cut and shut need to be stepped back. There pretty easy to make. The hardest is three bits of steel (box section/whatever) and just get under there and mark it out really.

[worked]

so lets look at positives and negatives and get them out so this can remain a tech article
(add to what i've missed, i'm a fuckhead remember)
kaibeecee mounts -
retain ae crossmember
retain all ae steering and susp components
tunnel needs a light knock
no modifying of steering shaft needed
enginemounts required (use rb20 ones)

s13-
modify s13 crossmember to fit in
no enginemounts required
cheap!
tunnel will require a tap as well
custom gearbox crossmember needed
steering shaft needs modifying
s12 manual rack or restrictor in s13 ps system to make the steering not ridiculously light (you';d have to ask a powersteering guru what they do, i've heard of it done but never looked into it myself, regardless with s13 ps it feels dumb in a light ke)

note: both setups will require engine and gearbox out to change clutch
this is only to get the engine sitting in your engine bay
you still need to sort:
tailshaft
diff
fuel system
radiator
fmic and piping
wiring (i'm having a chat with the bloke that makes these to get some shipped over to aus to have a try of, simple setup that has all yoru relays for power to the ecu)
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/5/7/64455.jpg

be good if we could find out measurements for tailshaft with sr and rb box with a certain diff, info on diffs that are readily available to be modified, what raditator to use, make a diagram for intercooler mounts etc
the simpler we make it for others the more people start repowering shitbox 4kc corollas with sr20s

[Skylar]

That thing totally looks expensive and a waste of money. So easy to wire CA/SR into whatever car, no need for fancy tyco relays.

[worked]

150 us, it is expensive but keeps it neat
it's easy for people with experience to wire in SRs man, like the wiring diagram i posted up the top shows, but there had been some interest in these so here they are

[matt99]

Just on tailshafts Ed, ill measure mine when I pull it out in a week or two (got to get one made for the new build).

For reference sake though, I have been told NOT CONFIRMED that if your using a RB20/30 box with SR bell housing on it and a 31 diff, you can use a 1982ish bluebird tailshaft.

[worked]

mint
i reckon i'll go an rb20/30 box (didn't realise rb30 boxes were the same, sweet)
i read on here somewhere that a bloke got his ke70 borgie diff tubes put on an r31 borg centre, with the axles shortened (if so i don't see why you could use two shorter side axles like you do matt)
this would be handy to know if confirmed

[matt99]

Yeah, RB30 puts the shifter in the correct position as well. Easy enough to get too obviously. MX7 gearbox would be even better (VLT) im assuming they bolt up the same again but are probably stronger.

I wonder what axles that guy would be using? I think passenger side 31 axles will still be too long. Would probably cost the same to do that to the diff as it would be to swap mounts on a 31 diff and shorten it, etc.

[Sam-Q]

I must of missed something, why an S12 rack in particular?

now matt are you running front wheel offset wheels to make that fit?

[worked]

in one of my rants a few posts up i sorta outline it sam
with the s13 powersteering rack it feels shit, either too light when hooked up or i found it odd with ps disconnected, s12 is a manual rack just like ke/ae, and fits in place of s13
this said, lloyd smith ran an s13 ps rack in his 1uz ke70, just drained the fluid and says it feels good

[matt99]

S12 rack, direct bolt manual replacement for S13 powersteer rack. No need for power steer in the 86 and gives you more engine bay room due to not having pumps, etc.

I usually have 15x8 -4 wheels up front. But for reference sake I have used 15x7 +19 aswell and also had my 15x10 -12's on there for a look. All fit, gaurd work required for the 8's and 10's obviosly.

[Sam-Q]

oh I see, how is the length of the rack though? the same as the s13 model?

[matt99]

Nope, same as S14 (one tooth longer than S13) or possibly even one tooth on top of that again.

[matt99]

Well I have a little bit of time before I hit the sack so I may as well give a quick run down of the relevant details for this thread for my current SR20 sprinter and maybe run through the one im building at the moment, the one im helping build and one I have help build in the past (KE).

Motor: S13 SR20DET redtop.
Enginecross member: S13.
Steering rack: S12 Gazelle.
LCA's: S12 Gazelle.
F Swaybar: -
Hub and knuckle assembly: Unmodifyed S13 SR20DET.
F suspension: S13 JIC base height adjustable coilovers with S13 cambertops.
Bellhousing used: S13 SR20.
Gearbox used: S13.
Gearbox crossmember: Straight peice of 50x25mm box section steel.

Engine crossemember bolts in by filing out the two rear holes in the crossmember to line up with factory AE86 crossmember holes in chassis rail. S12 rack bolts to the S13 crossmember as long as you use the S12 rubbers and clamps. All the LCA, brake and steering componentry bolts on just the same as a S13 would. The rack on the otherhand needs something to couple it to the 86 steering column, as previously outlines, a coupling can be made up which is your best option, however I have seen "cutting and shutting" of steering columns done and also clamp stretching (my current car).

The firewall only needs minor moving as long as your not stressed about a tight sqeeze back there. My current car was crudely smashed with a sledge hammer to fit this in. The start of the trans tunnel needs to be mover\d out (wider) slightly more to accomdate for the wider bellhousing on Nissan box's.

I use a S13 box with puts the shifter position about 100mm further back than where the standard 86 shifter hole is. By using a RB20/30 gearbox (bolts directly to a SR bellhousing) you eliminate this problem somewhat and it only ends up 5mm back further than usual. Also bluebird and other nissan boxes can be used, unsure of positioning with bluebird/pintara/navara gearboxes. My gearbox crossmember is plain and simple, staright steel with some holes. If your using the same gearbox/bellhousing combination as me, this will be self explainatory once your under the car.

Diff, im using a shortened R31 skyline (28spline borg warner) diff with 3.89 (auto) ratio gears and a $100 ebay minispool. Corolla mounts have been added on and the drivers side has been shortend and used two passenger side axles. R31s came factory with one axle around 30mm longer then the other. Another desireable diff option is G and F series. VS commodoore brakes bolt directly onto R31 brake mounts and if you weld two mounts together you get a good working hydro set up VERY easily.

Im also using a S13 radiator, not sure how this goes with factory rad supports as mine was removed (car was previosly a write off), but im lead to believe they still fit.

In my new car im pretty much doing the same thing as my current one, so ill dot point the changes im making from my current set up.

Modifyed steering knuckles, maily for less turns lock-to-lock.
Moving the trans tunnel back 100mm, for room to get to gearbox bolts and also have the shifter hole looking nice and clean.
Completely seam welded (irrelevant really).
Thats about all really, I think my current set up work and will work fine. The only things I would change are the few things I have listed above.

Im currently watching/helping a mate do the same conversion. He will beusing a RB box and retaining the 86 rack, but on the S13 crossmember. Should be interesting to see how it handles compared to my ones.

In the past I watch and when bothered lent a hand in Leigh Pidwells old SR KE70. Slightly different story here.
KE trans tunnels are wider than an 86, and his still needed some serious "massaging" to fit his RB25 (R33 skyline box in). S13 gearboxes are'nt the strongest so a 25 box wis the answer for 280rwkw. This requires a cut and shut bellhousing. Also, Leigh used shortened S13 LCA's, although I think they ended up being the same length as R31 ones (which would be ideal for this conversion by the way). Other than that, the basic's were all the same. However please BRACE YOUR UPPER TRAILING ARM MOUNTS ON THE CAR BODY FLOOR if your pushing big power, they have a tendancy to pull off.

Random hints:
Use an RB30 speedo drive in your gearbox and your standard speedo should still work, could be out by a little bit but its better than nothing at all. S13/14, RB20 boxes all have electronic speedo drives where as RB30 is cable.
One of the black wire is your tacho sended and it NEVER seems to work with standard tacho's, but will work with an aftermarket one.
ROUMERED if using I think a R31 diff and a RB20/30 box a 1982ish bluebird tailshaft will fit.
AE86 cambertop will work with 99% of S13 coilovers, saves you drilling a hole to fit your S13 camber tops in (no biggie anyway).

I know this is all pretty vauge, but at least it opens it all up for more questions.

[worked]

r31 LCAs fit mint and only require a hole to be drilled to fit your castor rods
i had to wind more thread on my stock castor rods and the s13 x member seemed to sit the LCAs firther forward
stock swaybar will mount up to LCAs but sits the link at a dodgy angle, still connected and still worked tho

[70rolla]

i just brought a na sr20 vct motor and 5 speed s14 gearbox which was origionelly out of a turbo silvia
the box has os giken gear set a 3000 pound pressure plate and a jim berry racing clutch single plate to hold 500 hp gear box has done 90kms work also has custom short shifter

this is all going into a ke so does that mean i have to buy ae71 x member and gear box cross member or could 86 x member work better

also will i have to massage the fire wall a bit ? i know i have to cut the tunnel but how much ?

and what speedo cable etc will i need to use ?

[Sam-Q]

70rolla: read two posts above

Matt I remember asking but I don't see my post, using the S13 crossmember and coilovers doesnt that give you a huge track? also you should tell your friend to stop what he is doing with the 86 rack into the s13 crossmember, it's just wrong.

[matt99]

You can either use E7/86 crossmembers with on of the conversion kits, or you can use a S13 front crossmember and a simple home made gearbox crossmember. Details of making both work are all listed above in some of the previous posts. Firewall will need some bumping around the trans tunnel entrance mainly, an inch should be fine.

As for speedo cable, TRY a R31 skyline gearbox speedo drive.

[matt99]

Matt I remember asking but I don't see my post, using the S13 crossmember and coilovers doesnt that give you a huge track? also you should tell your friend to stop what he is doing with the 86 rack into the s13 crossmember, it's just wrong.

S13 x-member and S13 LCA's do drastically increase the track, still useable but undesireable. Thats why im using S12 LCA's on the S13 x-member as there are around 8mm shorter each side from memory. R31 LCA's would be better again at around another 6mm or so shorter than S12.

S13, S12 and R31 LCA's are all compatible with the S13 crossmember and also S13 hubs.

Why not do the 86 rack on the S13 crossmember? Is it due to the position it will end up in? As we are going to change all of that to reduce bump steer and binding moreso than the modifyed knuckles already will.

[70rolla]

ok cheers and what is the best and cheapest computer to run

[matt99]

Standard SR20.

If you do mod's, put a Nistune chip in it.

If you must go aftermarket, I would go Power FC.

[70rolla]

it doesnt coem with a computer

[70rolla]

i need cheapest option that is most likly aftermarket

[matt99]

Your best bet to track down anyform of SR computers is on eBay or on NS.

[70rolla]

ok so like a stock set up with loom and everything

[worked]

yeh mate and use the wiring diagram provided above or get someone to wire it in

[Sam-Q]

S13 x-member and S13 LCA's do drastically increase the track, still useable but undesireable. Thats why im using S12 LCA's on the S13 x-member as there are around 8mm shorter each side from memory. R31 LCA's would be better again at around another 6mm or so shorter than S12.

S13, S12 and R31 LCA's are all compatible with the S13 crossmember and also S13 hubs.

Why not do the 86 rack on the S13 crossmember? Is it due to the position it will end up in? As we are going to change all of that to reduce bump steer and binding moreso than the modifyed knuckles already will.

ok so you use the shorter control arms and then wind the camber plates all the way in to correct the camber from doing so? if so I can't fault this combination on the perspective of messing up the geometery as it's pretty much transfering everything directly over without screwing things up. Every other way I have seen however is wrong in many ways

Basicly the ae86 rack unless it happens to be the same length and you get to mount it in the exact same position will have issues, hows the lengths compared? why change it in the first place when you say the S12 rack is an easy option?

[matt99]

ok so you use the shorter control arms and then wind the camber plates all the way in to correct the camber from doing so? if so I can't fault this combination on the perspective of messing up the geometery as it's pretty much transfering everything directly over without screwing things up. Every other way I have seen however is wrong in many ways

Yeah basically. By using AE86 or even S series adjustable cambertops along with the slight camber adjustment down on the knuckle ou have a massive amount of adjustability.



Basicly the ae86 rack unless it happens to be the same length and you get to mount it in the exact same position will have issues, hows the lengths compared? why change it in the first place when you say the S12 rack is an easy option?

The 86 rack is shorter than S12, but possibly the same as S13. Honestly, I would be going with S12 for the fact it will bolt to the x-member and also have a better range of travel, etc. I have explained this to him but he still wants to try and utelise the 86 rack for some reason.

[Sam-Q]

hold on the S12 rack is shorter than the s13? by much?

I woudl also always try and lean towards having something bolt in, even ignoring the very difficult job of getting it exactly right in it's position it's also a real bitch to swap the brackets over seeing part of it is an integral part of the crossmember

[matt99]

Sorry no, S12 is longer than S13 by one tooth.

[Sam-Q]

one tooth? how about the distance between the inner tie rods? ie: total width

[matt99]

About 20mm difference from memory. I have a 86 rack and a S12 rack both sitting outside, will measure tomorrow. Think I might have a S13 out there too.

[70rolla]

I saw in a mates old s13 that he had a switch for the Vct ?
What do you do with it in a ke do you run it or ?

[Rice86]

my understanding is run the VCT, otherwise its will be just like a normal sr20de
VCT is variable control timing? so nissan v-tech
only s14/s15 motors came out with VCT
SR20de from the s15 AUTECH version is another one that is refine and factory tune to output more power, some say, that the SR20de Autech does 14.5 down 1/4mile and others, its as fast as the AUS spec s15, all we know is, its a dirty Nissan

[Skylar]

Just a clarification. VCT/NVCS isn't VTEC/MIVEC/VVTL-i/VVL, it's VVT/VANOS

[70rolla]

explain more?

[Skylar]

VCT/NVCS/VVT/single VANOS move the inlet cam in relation to the cam sprocket/pulley with it being either on or off.

VTEC/MIVEC/VVL/VVTL-i have two camshaft profiles that the ECU decides to swap for whatever reasons they have. Basically it has a low lift, low duration profile AND a high lift, high duration profile on the same camshaft.

The aim of both systems is make as much torque as it can throughout the whole rev range with one being more advanced/technical than the other.

[Sorry_Afk]

Hi, was wondering what people have done in regards to getting their speedo and tacho working.. whether there are mods you can do to get the stock ae/e7 ones working or whether aftermarket units where used. If so what ones?

[Skylar]

Speedo was already discussed in this very thread.

Tacho: buy 4 diodes and wire them into each coil trigger wire and then to the tacho. Or buy a MSD 8920 tach converter. 10c vs $50

[Sorry_Afk]

.Ah yep, found it.. Cheers. Anyone know what diodes i would need to use?

[Skylar]

I think I used 50v 1 amp diodes. Like just basic ones. The diagram says to use a Zener diode and a resistor in addition to the four diodes but mine works fine with just the diodes.

[sld sho]

hey guys just bought a s13 na sr20de complete motor and also a ae86 x member allready modified for the sr20. just wondering can i retain standered stearing rack? will it be in the way?

[Sam-Q]

you would not run to run anything but the standard steering rack, if it doesn't fit the make it fit. That said I don't see why you would have a clearence problem

[sld sho]

allright that has shed some light ill will look into it once the engine is in...
also another question what other major issues would there be with the conversion?
is there another thread out there that has a write up of exactly what you need for the conversion? and what you will need to do?

[foamy]

The major issue with this conversion is money. You will want a strong diff, tailshaft, and good enough brakes and suspension to make the most of the motor. To properly complete a conversion like this you shouldn't see change from 8k (assuming you do most of the work yourself).

[Sorry_Afk]

There is no clearance problems with the stock steering rack - i had to lower my crossmember to fit the motor and box in then bolt it back up, but there is plenty of room if you correctly position the motor

[bones]

what brakes do people run if they keep the 4a crossmember?

[bones]

also what diff ratio should i get for my r31 diff?

[Jacobxxx]

what brakes do people run if they keep the 4a crossmember?

friend has s14 sr20de in his ke70 and he's still running adm ae86 brakes, said he hasnt had any issues.

[cpmgnt]

so is there any way of getting the speedo to work with the sr box or is the only option is the rb box because i have a full 180sx s13 sr20det to use as i got t-boned not 2 long ago and how much room is there between the stock dump and the firewall

[Jacobxxx]

can work with Sr box, Pintara or early R31 speedo drive, just need to unscrew the end of it with the wires hanging off it.

[Jacobxxx]

source stx-16

[Skylar]

Yeah, a whole bunch of older cars with W71C (or B) trans will have speedo cable.

[cpmgnt]

so then can u put a spedo cable in there and u meaning off the box yeah

[Skylar]

Yeah. Pull the cable adaptor out of them old cars in put it in place of the electronic sender found in S13/14/15/R33/34. Then connect stock speedo cable.

[cpmgnt]

ok thanks mate