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Grant #2
29th January 2011, 06:32 PM
Hey folks, I have a stand alone (VEMS) and I have noticed that VVT is becoming intermittent. The ecu itself has been quite reliable....I'm wondering if I killed it from driving many miles with a trd 4-2-1 header below it.

Anyone else have something similar happen?

Is the oil control valve itself repairable? How much does it cost to replace it?

Thanks!

Sam-Q
29th January 2011, 11:33 PM
could be the pulley or the solenoid, I have yet to hear of a bad solenoid

Anthony
30th January 2011, 01:53 AM
its about $150 for the valve or $300 for a pulley. The pulley is a 100,000km service item, the valve is not. Youd prob find one second hand easy enough (in fact Im pretty sure I have some) if it does turn out to be the valve, but I doubt it. Likelihood is wiring, then ECU, then pulley, then OCV.

Grant #2
30th January 2011, 07:13 AM
Thanks for the info guys. I was under the impression that the pulley for a blacktop is quite a bit more money then that, no?

One interesting thing is that I just changed my oil and VVT hasn't missed a beat after a I drove about 100km's. I don't understand fully how the VVT pulley works but I'm wondering if dirty oil was holding it up? I'm expecting VVT to act up again, but I will report what happens.

Anthony
30th January 2011, 12:55 PM
OK, sounds promising. Your oil must have been pretty dirty :)

Grant #2
31st January 2011, 01:35 PM
Went to what we call an autocross today....VVT seemed to be on the ball.

VVT is pretty important to me, with a trd 4-2-1 header and 2.25" piping and a moderately quiet muffler, VVT is really noticeable when it is working.

I checked the oil when I emptied it...didn't look too bad, and it was synthetic too. I switched to dinosaur oil this time around because I intend on dropping the oil pan soon for some welding. I still fear it will become intermittent again. My VVT pulley itself is quiet..no rattle.

One possibility is...my stand alone was acting kinda funny at one point, maybe because I welded on the rear muffler without disconnecting the battery (at the front of the car though)...it is possible some files got corrupted. At the same time I changed my oil I loaded an older map and did some fuel tuning.

Anthony
2nd February 2011, 11:32 AM
That makes more sense. Yeah its important no matter what pipes etc you have. Worth at least 10% of power through the midrange so if its cutting in and out you certainly feel it.

Grant #2
2nd February 2011, 11:37 AM
I agree with you, but I just noticed when I had a straight pipe and a catalytic converter it was less noticeable than when I put my quiet muffler back on. low to mid-range feels a lot stronger.

Anthony
2nd February 2011, 12:23 PM
OK, must all be working together nicely then :)

MAGIC MAN
5th February 2011, 06:57 PM
old oil or incorrect grade oil effects it, same on vetec's and mivec's, i had a mechanic mate of mine tell me that at around 100,000k's to use diesel oil in these type of engines to clean out any gunk in the oil passages. use it for a couple of times then go back to correct grade oil, seemed to work on everything he did