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aus_86
13th May 2011, 10:36 PM
hey guy

i was just checking some stuff out on you tube, 4agze builds. was a guy that said he used a 20v vvti crankshaft in his 4agze(didnt state weather it was a late model or what).

im looking at getting the most out of the gze as possible. everyone says turbo is the way to go. true but i thought this would be a great build ready for a awsome gte!!

so my question is, is a 20v vvti crankshaft lighter than a ze crankshaft(AE101)? would i come across anny problems using the ze block and spool rods and forged pistons?

cheers guy thanks for the help!!

jdm86gtz
14th May 2011, 11:26 AM
Cranks from 86/87-00 are all the same regardless of valve count or induction

Skylar
14th May 2011, 07:45 PM
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?61501-4age-Crank-Info-for-4agte-usage

aus_86
14th May 2011, 08:01 PM
well that just wont do. a tomei crank is ike 4G US(think).

what have people done to there motors to make them more responsive?

i have cams, lightened crank pulley, lightened flywheel. going to get AFM rods and pistons. spoke to a machinest and they dont think they will be able to do a lot for me.

Todd
14th May 2011, 08:30 PM
well that just wont do. a tomei crank is ike 4G US(think).

what have people done to there motors to make them more responsive?

i have cams, lightened crank pulley, lightened flywheel. going to get AFM rods and pistons. spoke to a machinest and they dont think they will be able to do a lot for me.
quad throttles, head work (porting polishing etc), lighter pullies, obviously intake filters and stuff like that too.
theres heaps you can do.

aus_86
14th May 2011, 08:55 PM
slight change from thread topic but what the best inlet-manifold for the 4agze? STD=crap! what would be the best for power and throttle response. quads or custom manifold with NA TB as it 10mm bigger.

Skylar
14th May 2011, 09:50 PM
Get a small diameter twin plate with auto flexplate. Amazing response but chops gearboxes into pieces a lot easier than your normal lightened flywheel with heavy duty/button clutch.

Skylar
14th May 2011, 09:54 PM
Fuck all that work. Just bolt on a (big'ish) turbo and run it straight into the supercharger inlet.

Inlet restriction is still there but makes power from idle to redline... without dying up top.

aus_86
14th May 2011, 10:41 PM
i want to get this monster driving and then get a t28/disco potato on after as i have already bought brand new extractors. would like to see the differences.

im confused about the auto flex plate part! what do you mean by flexplate, when you say that i think of automatic flexplate. if we are on the same page then how do i dolt the clutch to it?

Skylar
14th May 2011, 11:52 PM
Yeah, auto flexplate. Sorta like this:
http://motoiq.smugmug.com/MotoIQ/Tech/Clutch-Tech/SRT4-Twin-Disc/790110200_XxZen-L.jpg
except you just sandwich a strengthened flexplate in the middle of it. Go look in VA61DETT's build thread on toymods where he built like 3 flywheels using a puny tripple plate because they, and everything else driveline related, kept breaking.

That one above is a 7.25" below is a 5.5". The whole clutch is about the size of your hand. Super low polar moment of inertia and quick rev up (and down). Carbon as a friction material is real nice, easier and more impact absorbing than a metal friction material.
http://motoiq.smugmug.com/MotoIQ/Tech/Clutch-Tech/11-Z-carbon-Clutch/759866211_ZjuaB-L.jpg

Oh, and T28 is probably a little small to be feeding the charger. Not saying it won't work, but you can go bigger without detriment.

aus_86
15th May 2011, 12:03 AM
does someone do a 4age kit?

twincharged? not as easy as it sounds. need a way to keep the hot air from the turbo out of the blower as it would cause problems internaly in the S/C. thought about making a small twincharged on a A12 and then putting it on a larger scale!

Skylar
15th May 2011, 12:20 AM
I really have no idea, if anyone does a 4age kit. I doubt anyone would have one off the shelf. Can always get one made if you are really after response.

Water injection post turbo/pre sc12? Run big turbo at low boost so it moves a lot of air without heating it too much? I'm guessing for twincharge, you don't run the sc at more than 7 or 8 psi and the same with the turbo, no? Well, in case on sc12 anyway.

aus_86
15th May 2011, 12:24 AM
cant find the thread your talking about can you put up a link?

cheers!

Skylar
15th May 2011, 01:21 AM
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?38398-The-VG30-MA61-Goes-on-line/

I hate how the dude has a whole machine shop and all I have is an angle grinder. Super cool stuff though.

Stain
15th May 2011, 02:21 PM
You could just take your stock crank to a machine shop and get them to knife edge and balance it.

aus_86
15th May 2011, 07:09 PM
checked out the flexplate build, he just made his own flywheel out of steel. but i think you could be onto something with the flexplate!! i shall look and make some calls!

as the flexplate only if a part of the clutch to bolt to and in MUCH lighter than a flywheel!

as for the knife edge, isnt that just make the round part of the jernals get grinded into a right angle for ease of rotation? i want to drop kilo or just over! and then balance it all up.

Stain
15th May 2011, 09:05 PM
not the journals, the counter weights! the counter weights get ground to a point to take off weight and let it cut thru the oil in the sump easier.
but I don't see that taking such a large amount of weight off a gze crank would be a good idea...

considering gze/20v cranks weigh 12.695kg/27.99Lbs and rev quicker and higher than the early 16v engines which weighed 11.660kg/25.70Lbs.
and the TRD Formula Atlantic specs stated that the crank has to be a minimum of 12.7kg/28Lbs... just food for thought.

aus_86
15th May 2011, 09:44 PM
yer i wasnt sure what knife egde was.

i just thought and have read that a lighter crank is more responsive than a heavier crank. i guess technology would have a bit part to do with the early and late ge cranks. yer knife edge is a go! anything else that can be done to help in the respone area? even in the head??

Stain
15th May 2011, 10:30 PM
i suppose my main question is... why are you trying to tune a boosted engine like a n/a engine?

and secondly, are you going to be using lightweight con-rods and pistons? because the counter-weight on the crank is to... wait for it... counter the weight of the rods and pistons...
they're the size and weight they are for a reason. the only time you'd wanna be lightening your crank is if you've put in after market light weight rods and pistons and looking to balance the internals of your engine again.

aus_86
16th May 2011, 12:43 AM
well i figured all the mods that will help a N/A must also be a good improvment for a forced indution build also. you disagree STAIN?

yer spool rods and wiseco pistons, t3 pulley kit and lightened flywheel.

Skylar
16th May 2011, 03:26 AM
Reducing the mass of the rotating assembly makes it rev easier and puts less load on the turbo which will in turn spool slower.

Supercharger may not care but the turbo certainly will. Is this something you want?

aus_86
16th May 2011, 06:39 PM
Well as stated its for a blown motor so as said it won't matter till I get want more grunt then I will get a turbo and a new crank.