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Sil80GRL
12th January 2006, 12:57 AM
Hey guys,
Just wadnering if it's worth picking up a jap spec big port, or if i should jsut gor for a small port ae92? My engine may need replacing (will know soon) and yeah, jsut wandering. Someone said the small port will feel gutless compared to mine? But also mine apaprently had mroe power than most stock ae86's? Tough call, any advice?

poh_86
12th January 2006, 01:11 AM
100kw 7rib block with a bigport head u got a hybrid

Sil80GRL
12th January 2006, 01:14 AM
SO the big port head will go on to the 7 rib block with no problems?
Does the 7rib have higher compression? same compression? obviously less kay's than mine!
cheers dude

rxbenny
12th January 2006, 01:14 AM
meh
6 of one half a dozen of the other
the ae86 big port will be an older motor
the ae92 will be newer meaning potentially less wear on the motor
just go for a black top 4age and call it even ......... that is what i am going to do .......
but you have to decide what you want to do and to what car also

everything is hearsay until you do it cos then you have first hand knowledge but both are good on paper and have their benifits.

people will argue that the ae92 4age makes 100kw
and the ae86 4age makes 86 in oz spec tune and 96 in jdm blah blah blah
i reckon newer motor = less wear = good thing but each to their own

Sil80GRL
12th January 2006, 01:17 AM
Good point. I might give a ae92 block with an ae86 head a try, if I can http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/smile.gif
The car is a jdm 86. For drifting http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/smile.gif

poh_86
12th January 2006, 01:20 AM
basically with the 100kw block its 7rib compared to the bluetop 3rib.. can take more of a beating hope that helps

rxbenny
12th January 2006, 01:27 AM
when making the hybrid use back the big port cams
they have slightly more lift and duration.

mattysshop
12th January 2006, 07:39 AM
i have a 100kw smallport AE92 motor in mine.. ported head, linished/balanced rods, 20thou decked off the head, still running smallport cams.. it tears through the gears right to limiter in 4th, and is well on the way to it again in 5th..

it might seem a bit doughy down low if anything, but once it gets to about 4000rpm they take off, they really start to come on song around the 5500-6000 rpm.. in stock from the bigport might feel quicker because of it's lighter/smaller ~ ergo weaker internals, and the TVIS that give a bit better low down torque, although toyota quote they have less torque than the 100kw i think the TVIS system actually makes a great deal of difference for low down torrque, and i'll admit my car is gay off the line.. feels kinda like turbo Lag.. but once she has some revs behind her.. look out!! http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/smile.gif

in short, the bigport might feel a little quicker, but it's not really, the 100KW motor will last alot longer especially if your not planning on a rebuild straight up.. they are a stronger motor in nearly every aspect.. crank, rods, pistons, block, oil pump etc are improved on, plus there is a spray bar that squirts oil up into the bores!!

if you can't find a complete 100kw ecu/loom etc.. just get the whole harness/ECU/injectors from a bigport 4AGE.. more common, and works a charm http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/smile.gif

ae86levint
12th January 2006, 07:59 AM
i've driven stock bigport and small port, i would always take the ae92 engine it revs out quicker has more peak torque as well as a smooth linear power spread compared to the bigport which has the tvis and a dip in the midrange because of it. having said that i've spent a bit of time driving both 20v types too and i wouldn't convert an 86 to 20v either, just my personal preference tho.

sic86
12th January 2006, 08:54 AM
What makes the 7-Rib block stronger than the 3-rib?

Cheers

mattysshop
12th January 2006, 09:16 AM
it has 4 ribs more http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/smile.gif belive it or not, but under extreme loads the block CAN flex, the extra ribs help this flex, the block has a higher volume oil pump, and most a spray bar/oil squirters that point up into the bores at the gudgeon pins for cooling and lubrication. also the crank has 42mm bigends as opposed to the 40mm bigends in the 3 rib block.. the internals of the 7 rib are more robust than the earlier 3rib versions too.. 20mm gudgeon pins VS 18mm in the 3 rib.. there are soome other small differences with which 7 rib block eg 20V, 100kw, GZE etc the early GZE (AFM MR2) with the 7 rib block did not have the oil squirters though..

Sil80GRL
13th January 2006, 06:37 PM
Matty - So what about a bigport head on a small port block? Not worth it? I don't have the cash or expertise for a rebuild at this point in time (unless someone wants to help http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/rolleyes.gif ), but eventually i'd like 170-180 n/a hp.... One day http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/happy.gif I have a 16v because it's a JDM levin.... But not sure of the health of the motor :/

riceburner
13th January 2006, 06:54 PM
Originally posted by Sil80GRL@Jan 13 2006, 05:37 PM
I don't have the cash or expertise for a rebuild at this point in time (unless someone wants to help http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/rolleyes.gif ),
Either wait till you can afford the rebuild or sell it and buy an Excel.

170-180 n/a will cost money and lots of it too do it right so its reliable.

100kw would be best (newer the better) if your not keen on 20v.

Cheers

Steve

Sil80GRL
13th January 2006, 07:28 PM
I don't want to rebuild it at them moment.... And as if I'm stupid enough to not rebuild it right... How about no smart comments and jstu a bit of help?
I'd rather have a stock engine (like the one in there now anyway....) than either none or an excell.. ffs....
Yes, I know the 170hp will cost a lot of money... Hence why I said I don't want to get it done atm....

mattysshop
14th January 2006, 12:46 AM
for 170-180 hp rebiable you would need minimum

100kw bottom end.
higher comp pistons (forgies if you can)
fair bit of port work
deck the head for around 10.5-11.0 wouldn't go much more than this on our fuels
aftermarker valve springs
cams at least in the 270 duration area and around 8mm lift
underbucket shims
aftermarket ecu
quads would be awsome
tuned length headers
mmmmmmmm i'm getting thought already for my next motor.... http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/smile.gif

Sil80GRL
14th January 2006, 10:15 AM
Yeah, that's kinda what I was expecting. http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/smile.gif
If you decide to sell the one in their now, let me know dude http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/tongue.gif

Monster
14th January 2006, 01:38 PM
Just a point, alot of the tuning houses in Japan use the big port bottom end because yes they are slightly weaker, but have less friction points than the small port.

Just a thought http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/biggrin.gif

selk
14th January 2006, 01:58 PM
or using tha gze bottom ends

mattysshop
14th January 2006, 04:24 PM
Originally posted by 20v Monster@Jan 14 2006, 12:38 PM
Just a point, alot of the tuning houses in Japan use the big port bottom end because yes they are slightly weaker, but have less friction points than the small port.

Just a thought http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/biggrin.gif
they use then but they but they use aftermarket rods, ior rebuild the motor often.. for reliability i'd use a 100kw bottom end..

also GZE rods arn't any stronger than 100kw rods, from what i have seen at least http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/smile.gif