what is need for a t-series swap?

[dori_86]

i currently am buying a t-series diff to change over my s-series, do i need a drive shaft that fit's the t-series or can i use the on ive got? http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/huh.gif

(i also know all about the sway bar etc.)

ive done searches for this info cant find it? soz if this is a re-post (99.9% sure it is but i need answers!!) http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/laugh.gif

[crazy86]

Nah, you need a T series tail shaft (rear half) its about 1/4" inch (5mm) shorter. You could get one made though.

[Monster]

God i'm good! http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/tongue.gif

Try this... (http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forum/index.php?showtopic=643)

[jnr 13b]

well i have a T50 box with a tail shaft that is made to fit sprinter with T series diff convertion.

I got it off "irally" from toymods. I paid $200 for the box and tail shaft.
so it you want you can pay me $200 and you can have it. I was told that to Box is in a prefect condiction.

or otherwise you'll have to find a Tseries tail shaft from the T series Diff.
is just doing it this way you have another T50 gear box.

[dori_86]

hey jnr 13b ur an SA guy arent u? PM me with ur details

[xsoarerx]

i heard that when you get a JDM 86 disk brake diff dont you have to get a jdm brake booster as well?

can you run say an ae90 brake booster instead?

[jnr 13b]

I don;t really the have a problem with the brake on the diff at first.

but now my hand brake is not really working. It has been tighten up all the way.

if anyone know how i can fix this. I would be very greatful for it.

[jnr 13b]

on the other hand.
thank you for all the interest on the gear box and tail shaft.

I not really in need of money.

it have a little while seen i had a look at the box and tail shaft.
so i can have a look at the condiction for you guys.

But i from Sydney, I go the Oran Park with the guys from IDA as much as I can.
so I can bring it there if you guys are really interested.

as for sending it for SA or WA. well I not too keen, cause I'm too lazy to organise the pick. but if you like you can get them to pick it up from my place.

other wise sorry I can't really help you.

[Monster]

I'll be pitting with a maye at the IDA day this Sat, PM me your mob number, we can meet up there and discuss what needs to be done (Between that and meeting with Alexi regarding sponsorship for the IDA website)

[crazy86]

the JDM disks require more brake pressure than the ADM drums, so if you just change to Disks with no other changes, your braking will be worse than before, because the car is basically relying on just front brakes. The handbrake will also not adjust itself correctly to take up the slack in the system.

There are 3 things you can do

1. remove the internals from the stock proportioning valve. This will give you more pressure to the rear, but probably too much, and will chew up your rears really quickly, and also be quite unstable braking into a corner, especially in the wet. This should only be a temporary measure.

2. Go buy yourself a JDM booster and P valve. this will solve your problems in an idiotproof way, problem is cost and difficulty in finding one.

3. Install an adjustable P valve. this gives you the benefit of the JDM P valve, but you can also adjust the balance to suit your driving style on the track. If you want to see some pics of this setup, have a look in my members rides thread
click da pick \/ \/ \/.

[xsoarerx]

Originally posted by CRAZY86@Jan 18 2006, 08:33 AM
the JDM disks require more brake pressure than the ADM drums, so if you just change to Disks with no other changes, your braking will be worse than before, because the car is basically relying on just front brakes. The handbrake will also not adjust itself correctly to take up the slack in the system.

There are 3 things you can do

1. remove the internals from the stock proportioning valve. This will give you more pressure to the rear, but probably too much, and will chew up your rears really quickly, and also be quite unstable braking into a corner, especially in the wet. This should only be a temporary measure.

2. Go buy yourself a JDM booster and P valve. this will solve your problems in an idiotproof way, problem is cost and difficulty in finding one.

3. Install an adjustable P valve. this gives you the benefit of the JDM P valve, but you can also adjust the balance to suit your driving style on the track. If you want to see some pics of this setup, have a look in my members rides thread
click da pick \/ \/ \/.
when you install the adjustable p valve, do you still have to remove the internals from the stock proportioning valve or can you leave it be and run both because i see on yours your run both?

[jnr 13b]

Originally posted by CRAZY86@Jan 18 2006, 08:33 AM
the JDM disks require more brake pressure than the ADM drums, so if you just change to Disks with no other changes, your braking will be worse than before, because the car is basically relying on just front brakes. The handbrake will also not adjust itself correctly to take up the slack in the system.

There are 3 things you can do

1. remove the internals from the stock proportioning valve. This will give you more pressure to the rear, but probably too much, and will chew up your rears really quickly, and also be quite unstable braking into a corner, especially in the wet. This should only be a temporary measure.

2. Go buy yourself a JDM booster and P valve. this will solve your problems in an idiotproof way, problem is cost and difficulty in finding one.

3. Install an adjustable P valve. this gives you the benefit of the JDM P valve, but you can also adjust the balance to suit your driving style on the track. If you want to see some pics of this setup, have a look in my members rides thread
click da pick \/ \/ \/.
thank mate

what would option 3 cost to do?

how hard will it be to do?

cheer

[crazy86]

Originally posted by xcedricx@Jan 18 2006, 04:20 PM
when you install the adjustable p valve, do you still have to remove the internals from the stock proportioning valve or can you leave it be and run both because i see on yours your run both?
I kept my original P valve, because it means i didnt have to modify any existing lines, i just made up a new pair of lines to replace the original going from the MC to the old P valve. That way i can just put all the original stuff back if i need to (one thing i do with all my mods is they all must be able to be returned to stock if required). You do have to gut the old valve though, so keep the bits somewhere safe. You can remove it all together, but that will require more work, as chances are your aftermarket valve does not have the same threads as the toyota brake lines, so you will need to cut the fittings off, put new fittings on, and re-flare the pipe ends etc.

[crazy86]

The most expensive part of option 3 is the actual valve, the only other cost was 2wo pieces of brake line about 1-2 feet long each, cost me 20 bux. the nuts n bolts from Bunnings, and the plate is just a peice of trimmed down scrap from my local engineer. Fitting takes about half an hour, then the only other cost is brake fluid, and bleeding your lines out.

[jnr 13b]

hey Craig

do you thing it'll fix my proplem if i fit a set of Hydraulic hand brake in m car?

I'm just try to work out which way is better to go.

cheers

[crazy86]

hmm, mabey, but it would be good to fix your bias properly to start with, it will make a noticable improvement to your stopping distances.

Hydraulic H.Brake would be nice, but the hard part is mounting it somewhere without removing the original handbrake. Screech (steeve) has one, and it intrudes into the drivers space too much. It depends how hard core you want to go, but it could be possible to find somewhere neater to mount it if you do a bit of engineering.

Does your handbrake work at all? (eg if your car is rolling in neutral at about 25-35 kays, will it stop the car?)

[jnr 13b]

it not working at all
It will row back on a small hill

[crazy86]

well, you could start by stripping out the stock P valve, and see if that gives enough pressure to the rear to get the pistons to adjust properly. But you may have other probs. When was the last time you bled it? do you get any pad wear at all? (or brake dust on your rear rims?)

[jnr 13b]

well the brake was bleed not too long ago. pads are find.

well I'm going to at the hydraulic hand brake.

Just that the old cable one out for now.
I can alway but the cable hand brake back in when ever I like.

plus I dont really drive my car on the street much anyway.

thank you for the halp Craig

[crazy86]

remember a Hydraulic Hansbrake alone will not hold your car on a hill overnight http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/wink.gif

[jnr 13b]

yes
I know that. thank fo rthe reminder.

but first gear should alway do the trick