4age running like poo

[rthy]

4kc power from 1000>4000rpm
but once tvis start to open up it flys but like shit all power under 5000rpms?
is that normal? http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/huh.gif

my previous redtop had way more response under 5000 but wasnt "standard"...
or have i been drivng the gze to much... http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/fap.gif

[mattysshop]

check your timing.. if it's anything under 25 knock it up baby! hahaha.. if you disconnect the tvis, it will disable itself, and stay in the open position.. some people say on a stock motor with minor mods it's best to keep it.. but i have just put a bigport into an 86 with tvis butterflies removed, and it's quite torquey..

redtop.. meaning? 100kw smallport, AW11 bigport w/7 rib block?? little more clarification to what you were comparing it to.. cos my smallport motor walks all over this bigport one http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/smile.gif and it doesn't really have that much work done to it..

[rthy]

yea its a 7rib bigport (both are)
i think im timing is less than 10btc...

oh yea and where is the fuse for the dash lights? my tacho and other stuff died so i gotta find the fuse ah....

cheers

[mattysshop]

dash lights? or instruments.. cos the fan/oil pressure/temp/tacho run of the 1 7.5amp fuse under the driverside kickpanel..

make sure you use a piece of wire, or paper clip to bridge T1 and E1 to adjust your base timing..

[rthy]

thants dood
i also played with the timing again today and fees like 50rwkw's yay now does pesky pushbikes can piss off

[selk]

injectors.... how many kms on the engine ?

[rthy]

engine was from a jdm front cut with around 150>200,000km's

the timing was way off so it runs way better now but idles at like 2000rpms...

[selk]

all the time ?

[mattysshop]

with timing...

as long as all the associated stuff is up to scratch.. good iridium sparkies, good condition leads, coil etc etc.. running good fuel (98ron).. timing can be wound off the clock.. to at least 20.. advance it to 20, make sure you jumpered the T1 and E1 together to get base settings.. and wind it up to 20 at least.. see how that goes.. but only if the engine is in general good condition.. you shouldn't hear any pininging at all.. they are quite resiliant bastards!..

[selk]

20 degrees BTDC ... seems a bit high, i ve got mine at around 14

[roadsailing]

a 4AGE has more power than a 4AC at every point in the rev range - especially at 7500 RPM.

i should wind some more timign into mine maybe...

[mikes86]

idle at 2000 rpm says to me vacum leak. Disconect all the cold start n poo from under your throttle body. Do a lil search and you'll see what i mean. Wind the timing up to around 20-25 or do it the old school way wind it up drive up a steep hill in a high gear and if it pings bring it back a lil bit http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/smile.gif

[rthy]

fixed the clutch the other day and check the btc... its like 0... so i move it up alil closer to 10btc and goes much harder now but revs between 1100 and 1500 on idle when warm.

is that the tps or do i just keep adjusting the dizzy?

cheers

[mattysshop]

14... you wuss.. 20+ is fine on a good condition 4AG..http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/smile.gif

[rthy]

yea the previous motor was like 15btc and was pretty good

i just gotta use this car as a daily until such time that another daily can be arranged...

[mattysshop]

make sure you are bridging T1 and E1.. and trust me.. you can wind it to at least 20 deg safeley...

when you advance the timing, it will increase idle speed slightly.. you might need to adjust it accordingly.. with the idle screw.. if still having a hunting idle.. may be a problem with the wax pellet cold start.. try disconnecting the 2 small cooling lines from the bottom of the throttle body, loop them into each other works best, you can block them off too, doesn't really matter.. then once the car is running you should be ablt to set your idle speed once at normal operating temp..

[Vance]

WTF is T1 and E1 may i ask?

my 86 seems to run like an absolute carnt of a thing, idling at 6 - 7 hundy when warm, missing like a bitch on low throttle (anything less than 25 % throttle at revs around 3 - 4 grand in lowish gears like 2nd/3rd will see it missing to the point where it slows down, not speeds up!) and dosent make it to the limiter before it just stops revving (i think the ECU adjusts timing based on throttle position, as when i use shitloads of throttle it will just miss and not rev any higher than about 5 1/2 grand at a guess, but when i use about 60 - 70% it will rev out to 7000 plus.)

i have mucked around with the dizzy a bit and found that when i rotate it counter-clockwise, it will start really easy but stops revving earlier (does the misfire thing), and when i turn it clockwise a bit, it is a carnt to start, sometimes just refusing to turn over, but has wicked power and revs right out to 7 and beyond.

any thoughts on what the hell is going on with this behaviour?

i have been told the timing is out by a tooth, and just assumed that it was fixed properly, but the dizzy was wound clockwise all the way to the end when i picked it up, possibly as a bandaid solution, and the timing could have never been fixed?

plus i also get massive vibrations coming through the accel pedal at about 3400, and the severity seems to change when i fuck with the timing. could that be a bottom end knock, and when i advance the timing it exaggerates it?


sooo many problems... http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/tongue.gif

[rthy]

T1 and E1 is to slow down the rpm to do timing
my problem was the warmup idle thing was always open so that was one of the problems. i just closed it off.

i had a similar prolbem where i had no power tilll tvis (5000rpm+). the problem was it was reset to 0btc.... so reset it again to 15btc and runs much better now http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/smile.gif (i will try 20 later on http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/wink.gif)
+10btc is standard

[mattysshop]

T1 and E1 stops the ecu from making adjustments to the timing.. thus allowing base timing....

grifter - your description is vauge, but i know if you follow all these steps.. some might not be necsisary if already done.. but you need to eliminate your problems 1 by 1..

step 1... always run your 4AGE on 98 RON fuel..
step 2... buy a timing light if you don't have one (not that expensive)
step 3... new spark plugs (some NGK iridiums will be mint, and you will never have to change them.. they last beyond 100 000km's)
step 4.. inspect dizzy cap and rotor button.. replace as needed..
step 5... check and or replace ignition leads..
step 6... put your engine on TDC (crank mark) and pull dizzy out.. you shall notice 2 small dents at the gear.. one on the gear and one on the dizzy body.. line them up (replace dizzy o ring or add some gasket silicone while your there) and put back in..
step 7... with T1 and E1 jumpered together with a peice of wire.. setup the timing light and check base timing..
step 8 with engine running still move dizzy to give approx 15-20 deg of advance.. if you hear a ping, stop and back of a touch..
step 9 tighten dizzy, remove wire on the t1/e1.. adjust idle speed at throttle body to just under 1000rpm, or what ever your happy with.. and take it for a fang..

if you do all of that.. i will garuntee you it will run a million times better..

the sluggishness is your timing is out..
the missing couls be spark plugs/leads/dizzy cap/rotor button..

so at least start with the timing.. if you don't wish to do it comprehensivly.. once it is at around 15 deg.. should be quite good.. and if it is still missing systematically eliminate each item by replacing..

Matty

[Vance]

^^^ cheers mate, next time ive got some spare time i should look into that.

ive replaced the leads with 5mm top gun things, and spark plugs with the NGKs. i also only ever use BP ultimate.

i still dont really get the T1 E1 thing, like how/where do i connect the wires to jump it together? i am a fair mech noob, i know a lot of theory but practical hands on shit i am fucked so excuse the lack of any idea please http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/tongue.gif

[mattysshop]

you get a piece of wire... plug it into T1... then plug it into E1....

are the NGK iridiums? or standard plugs?

[Vance]

yeah but where are the T1 E1 things and what are they? are they plugs on the ECU? if i went out to me car with T1 and E1 in my head i'd have no idea what to look for and where.

im pretty sure the plugs were iridum ones, they cost a shitload and said that they wouldnt need changing for ages.

[mattysshop]

there is a small box with 'diagnosis' on it in the engine bay... flip the cap off.. and on the underside of the cap is a map if you like of the pins... stick a bit of wire in to bridge the one that says e1 and t1...

[Vance]

CHING CHING!! thats the info i was looking for!

thanks mate. i'll prob check that out over the weekend (only chance i will get when its actually light outside, fukn work) and hopefully it fixes my shitbox a bit.