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.wolfwood
13th July 2006, 01:17 PM
hey all i was jsut thinking about tmy cooling setup on my 4agze so i went to take a look at it and to me it just doesnt seem right, could explain y it always get so hot.

well i decided to take a few pics and put em up so that i could get some feed back from yous.

btw i didnt do this the previous owner did.

here are pics.
[attachment=4808:attachment]
[attachment=4809:attachment]
this is my inline type thermostat so cant be right, help...
[attachment=4810:attachment]

verm69
13th July 2006, 01:56 PM
i'm not really sure... but i can tell you it's quite different form mine..

sorry i'm not much help

Medicine_Man
13th July 2006, 02:00 PM
Air lock in the cooling system?

mattysshop
13th July 2006, 02:01 PM
i think you have the remote thermostate housing bolted together the wrong way... but that shouldn't affect it..

check the following (sorry to keep on hounding you)

* water pump impellor
* thermostate (is it opening? are you running one?)
* the water pump pully looks like it is seriously underdriving the water pump.. which is good to a degree, but it might be too much..
* run a engine cooling system flush.. that looks like it could have alot of scale on the inside of the motor.

there is a start.. there is a certain calculator to see how much your actually under driving you water pump but i can't find it.. they look like there the same size!! the water pump needs to be much smaller than the crank pully.. or try running a bigger crank pully..

also i have a pretty much brand new FWD water pump, if you want to come and pick it up, be my guest.. nobody wants to buy it.. so if it helps you.. let me know..

Matty

.wolfwood
13th July 2006, 02:17 PM
hmm... think i might try putting a diff water pump onthere and the correct thermastat set up. nfi what you mean by "seriously underdriving the water pump". the thermostat in pic was probably around the other way i puled it apart to see if fucked and put it together like that jsut for pic...

i might take the water pump of you depending on what other people say..

thanks for help

.wolfwood
13th July 2006, 02:41 PM
just tok water pump off and the propera blades look fine. although the hole in the block were the water goes in, behind water pump in the hole its all rusted, so that cant be good... god dam it this car is so pissing me off

mattysshop
13th July 2006, 03:48 PM
underdriving the water pump.. ie turning is slightly slower.. allowing the water to spend more time in the radiator cooling.. particularly usefull with high revving motors.. where the water pumps spin off thier tits..

eg. the crank pully is for arguments sake 200 dia...
on a normal water pump setup it would be something like 100mm dia..

yours looks more like both of them are almost the same size..

bigger water pump pully make the water pump spin slower, to slow causes problems.. doesn't matter what radiator you have in it.. if the water doesn't go though it enough.. it just won't work..

on the flip side.. if you increase the size of the crank pully like in a GZE high boost pulley.. it will actually speed up the water pump.. thats why the proper way to do a GZE boost pulley conversion.. is big crank pulley, and increase the water pump pully to help bring the pump speed down..

as yours is all offset werid on the front pully.. i honestly belive this is your problem.. not having the correct size water pump pully..

2 solutions..

1.. get a smaller pump pully (ie have one made approx $80-100 billet ally)

2.. get an altenator bracket from an AE82 4AGE.. with the altenator if your using the GZE one on the other side (GZE alt same plug/internals etc..but different houseing).. also the water pump pully off that engine..

put the altenator bracket back on the inlet side of the motor.. and the AE82 altenator will now line up with your rear pully on the crank.. so you can run a stock fwd water pump pulley..

then run a cooling system flush!! cos it looks quite gunked up..

Matty

.wolfwood
13th July 2006, 04:13 PM
^^ okay thanks for that, its rather simple i guess. will sjut have to get those parts and run loger wire for the altinator to plug into and that. um and should i also get the belts of the ae82?

and to i use the thermostat thats from the ae82, will it be attatched to the back of the water pump ir what?

hmm i do have an eletric davies craig water pump but no one seems to know how to install it LOL. its an inline thing. i bought it off josh young and he siad it just sticks inbetween the botton radiator pipe.

what way to you think i should go?

ta ben

mattysshop
13th July 2006, 05:06 PM
normal water pump should be fine.. the AE82 water pump is the same thing.. remote thermo houseing etc.. 82 deg thermostate seems to be the normal 4AGE one.. get new belts.. there cheap..

Javal
13th July 2006, 05:10 PM
Use the Davies Craig EWP. it's at all difficult to install, just get a shorter belt and bypass the water pump completley and plum the EWP in-line. easy.

make sure you mount in a secure location, but use a piece of rubber on the mounting point (same way some fuel pumps) because i've heard of these things failing due to excessive vibration.

The EWP has a few advantages, but the most notable one is that your engine will rev up quicker cause there is less load on it because it doesn't have to drive a water pump.

Javal.

.wolfwood
13th July 2006, 05:21 PM
i cant do it im a newb

Javal
13th July 2006, 05:31 PM
There's no real advantages or disadvantages in not using a thermostat - It will take longer for your car to reach operating temperature, but that about all i can think of. I'd keep the thermostat in if it was me.

The wiring of it shouldn't be hard at all, i mean, you want it to be on from the moment you turn the key, so just hook it up (piggyback style) to something that only runs while the key is in th 'on' position (but you may need a higher rated fuse for the item you run it off). All it is is a bloody electric motor hooked up to an impeller blade in a fancy lil housing.

Javal.

mattysshop
13th July 2006, 05:59 PM
no thermmostate can lead to overheating, the water moves too fast through the radiator.. and creates hot spots in the motor.. as the water just circulates around the front through the easiest path....

EWP is alot harder to wire in than that.. a controll device to switch it on and off to equal out the temp.. you cant simply run it off a switch not on a road car atleast..

mattysshop
13th July 2006, 06:17 PM
here is my setup... never have i ever had an issue with cooling.. although it is NA.. it gets driven very hard.. 8000rpm.. everyday.. no worries..

running full thermostate.. 82 deg as mentioned above..

yes i am running an oil cooler.. but thats just been added.. and it takes ages to get up to temp now.. think i might have to cover it with a bag in winter!

yes as you can see... i am running the stock ally radiator also.. and a clutch fan (rwd water pump used ofcourse)

mattysshop
13th July 2006, 06:18 PM
also your pump is ment to have quite a bit of stiffness/resistance when your trying to turn it.. like a fresh wheelbearing..

.wolfwood
14th July 2006, 02:40 AM
hmm i need a rwd water pump and everything that is needed, wouldnt happen to have a spare set up would ya. i would use the EWP but i cant install that. and i dontreally know if someone like slyder could do it if i took my car to his shop-ants who eva it is.

mattysshop
14th July 2006, 08:38 AM
i have a nearly new FWD water pump, and fwd pully.. but you'll need to get your own ae82 4AGE altenator and bracket..

there is not any difference in the pumping capacity of a 4AC/ RWD 4AGE water pump.. how ever i can get brand new toyota genuine ones (including the RWD thermostate housing at the back of the water pump) for about $100 plus postage

.wolfwood
14th July 2006, 10:14 AM
yeah sounds kool, well im down for that if you can get it for me, i live on goldcoast so i might be able to pic it up or what eva if not too far away.

let me know champ

ta ben

Hen is a total nutcase
16th July 2006, 08:30 PM
In the third picture in the first post I think the hose from the back of the water pump should be connected to the pipe on the thermostat housing which is currently not connected (covered in white crap, pointing about vertically down). The one it is currently connected to should go to the radiator bottom tank.

The way it is connected now, the thermostat will block all flow into the water pump when cold (no bypass) so it may never warm up and open.

Afraid that is all from memory as I am not near my car at the moment.

Also, the topic of thermostat vs. no thermostat has been debated lots. Google can provide some well researched answers.

Hen