few quetions for 20v

[hillclimb86]

getting 20v built at the moment ordering ross customs pistons in the next few days forged 20 thou oversize but not sure on comp what are the benifits/drawbacks of going to 11.5 just after different peoples opinions

does a clutch to suit t-50 (200mm) bolt onto a 20v flywheel or do i need a 16vrwd fly??

what are peoples views on haltech computers??

[rthy]

how much did the ross pistons cost you? are they light?

11.5:1 might require a fairly retarded ignition timing even with 98RON fuel

212mm flywheels and 200mm cant share clutches. just use your standard 20V flywheel and clutch and you should be just fine

[Hyuga]

i'm using 20v flywheel, 20v pressure plate but friction plate from my old 4ac coz it had lots of meat in there when doing my engine swap lol. so now i'm not using all the surface on the flywheel lol. But it works fine I can de clutch under 3000rpm and still spin the wheels =).

[LordNafe]

My advice.... DOn't go for Ross Racing pistons. A good amte of mine had some drama with them in his Nissan.....
11.5:1 would be fine.

[slydar]

11.5 is fine.. you WILL be able to wind the ignition into to.. 4a's are very knock resistant due to the short rod ratio. also i guess youll be getting cams? if so yu can get away with higher cr as your effective CR will be lower due to the overlap.

manual 20vs come with a 212 flywheel.

16v are 200

4ac ones are 200 too but theyre 6 bolt.

id personally go for a 200mm if you have to buy one. 200s can hold the power of an NA engine easy, theyre a little lighter, and all the billet lightweight flywheels are 200mm, so if you wanna upgrade to one of those later, you wont have to get a new clutch.

i wouldnt reccomend a haltech. we've had problems with them on 20vs before, not being able to read the CAS single causing a (severe) missfire/breakdown about 5000 rpm.

[psychofox]

I don't agree with going for the 200mm clutch over the 212mm one - you want the largest available clutch size as it will dissipate heat better and provide more torque handling for a given friction material and pressure plate stiffness (as there is more surface area).

Lightened flywheels are available in both sizes (Toda, HKS, Xtreme, etc) so I woudn't use that as a factor for going for the smaller one. for most applications you want a 4-5kg flywheel for a street driven NA 4A - which all of the 212 mm flywheels are in this range.

If you can, use the 212mm clutch/flywheel - Toyota upgraded it for a reason.

[hillclimb86]

how much did the ross pistons cost you? are they light?

havnt got them yet going today to faber in lakemba to order them $960 so dont know weight yet

will be getting cams made up just need to decide on diff ratio they will only be mild cams though

going to go with 11:1 comp spoke the guy doing the work and thats what he recomended unless i was using biger cams

what computer would you recomend slydar or any one else

thanks for the imput

[LordNafe]

I'm in agreeance with dimitri on the flywheel. My car uses a lightened 200mm flywheel, and it has a 5AGE stroker engine with plenty of torque and have never had problems with my clutch.
As for ECU, you can't really go past an Adaptronic or Razorback for quality and price/value for money.

[Monk]

Adaptronic Ecu is apparently the best but it will set you back 1500 or so (Kizen sell these) this price is fitted though http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/wink.gif the price for the unit alone is $1000

Haltech are a Good ECU, not as expensive as an adapronic form memory .. I havnt not sene one on a 20v so I dont know how it would go.

Wolf 3D are proven and I know ofa few people runnign them on there 20v, best part is you can download maps off the net too

Microtech what can I say ... everyone seems to run them so they must be fine

Razor Back - great bang for buck ecu, they are good and cheap.

in the end it comes down to what you want out of an ECU .. if you want a full crazy daily driver + track car and lots of tuning etc then I would go the adapronic / haltech

If you want just a ecu to drive and give it the occasional once a month drift day thingo I would maybe consider one of the cheaper ecus

hope that helps

just my 2c

[balistic]

Get an ECU that your trusted tuner can tune and recommend - no use buying ECU "X" coz it has a great rep but no one around you can tune it properly http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/wink.gif

An ECU is only as good as its tune.

[hillclimb86]

i live in sydney and the is a shop called just engine managment they do haltech and have tuned heaps of cars just engine management (http://www.justenginemanagement.com/customercars.htm)
They have done a few 20v one of whom i know and is happy with it that is the reason i was going with them
what do you think??


undecide on the fly i have both options avialable have 200mm fly+clutch balanced and 212mm fly balanced just need a clutch ?????????????

ill keep thinking

[slydar]

i edited monks post guys. we've spoken about it before but you must have got mixed up man. that price is for an adaptronic including fitting. the unit by itself is $1000. so its quite a cheap computer, but feature packed. its what we use and what i recommend. for an na engine theyre ideal too as they have throttle v's map tuning capability, which is uncommon among the cheaper computers, but a real bonus and na cars with multiple throttles.

web site here www.adaptronic.com.au

we could supply you the unit with a complete loom for $1500 including relays for your fuel pump ect.

we use late model toyota coil packs(ie, every single toyota uses them now), they have the ignitor built in and sit directly onto of the plug. these are an extra $300, but we can build the loom to suit whatever ignition system components you want to use.

pm me if youre intersted if you get all that together we might be able to do a slightly better deal.

also the owner/designer of adaptronic is situated in sydney, so you might even be able to have him do the fitting and tuning, but speak to him via his web site about that.

[slydar]

I don't agree with going for the 200mm clutch over the 212mm one - you want the largest available clutch size as it will dissipate heat better and provide more torque handling for a given friction material and pressure plate stiffness (as there is more surface area).

Lightened flywheels are available in both sizes (Toda, HKS, Xtreme, etc) so I woudn't use that as a factor for going for the smaller one. for most applications you want a 4-5kg flywheel for a street driven NA 4A - which all of the 212 mm flywheels are in this range.

If you can, use the 212mm clutch/flywheel - Toyota upgraded it for a reason.[/b]

thats all true, and fine. but id still choose a 200. clutches are cheaper. as are flywheels, and aftermarket ones are easier to source in this size. and 200s will hold the power of even the most vicious NA engine without the need for a ridiculous pressure plate at all.

and whilst the surface area of the clutch disc is smaller, the surface area of the flywheel is almost exactly the same, remembering they use the same ring gear so heat dissapation is almost exactly the same also.

[Monk]

I ment to say that slydar i just forgot http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/tongue.gif

[brad]

im currently fitting a haltech e6x to a 16 4age, i was recomended it by quite a few people.
its simple to fit, easy to tune, able to run a heap of extras and the guys at haltech are great people.
just go for a motec, simply the best.
regards to clutch, it is not always having a greater surface area equals more friction and better torque transmission, due to the simlpe pressure per inch rule. think about button clutches and how they work.
also prolly shouldnt run smaller diameter clutches on flywheels as it will wear the flywheel unevenly and cause problems down the track.
just my 2c
brad