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View Full Version : how to get more power out of a 100kw



deanoo
8th November 2006, 06:32 PM
hey people just want some advise on wats the best way to get power out of a n/a 4age 100kw???

albertos
8th November 2006, 08:05 PM
put money in it

Wanabe_Garage
8th November 2006, 08:31 PM
air/fuel intercepter
maybe safc

assuming u already have high flow intake and exhaust

other then that..... albertos is right, you need heaps of money to build lots of power in n/a

rthy
8th November 2006, 08:50 PM
no turbo? ....


whats your budget

flamingheads
8th November 2006, 10:45 PM
Paint it panda, stick fujiwara tofu stickers on the side, get some 17" rims and a phat 'zorst with a 5" cannon.

Nah, what have you already done to the engine? Do you have a pod filter, exhaust, extracors etc? Is it an old engine that would enjoy a rebuild?

deanoo
8th November 2006, 10:52 PM
thanx every1... ye i have got already pod filter extractors and exhuast the whole way through apart from that everything is stock... its making 100rwhp atm..

i dont want big big power jus a lil bit more... what u suggest?

deanoo
8th November 2006, 10:52 PM
thanx every1... ye i have got already pod filter extractors and exhuast the whole way through apart from that everything is stock... its making 100rwhp atm..

i dont want big big power jus a lil bit more... what u suggest?
its not old either got about 150ks on it

ke70dave
8th November 2006, 11:32 PM
all depends on how much $$ you got mate, but as has been said, anythign to do with making NA power is gonna cost a bit. from my understanding, anythign after exhuast/intake is gonna need a programmable ecu, get one of those suckers, then you can start playing with cams and quad throttles!

on a second thought, maybe get a new headgasket to get some more compression goin? bit of porting in the head to clean things up a bit?


hope that helps a lil

Javal
9th November 2006, 01:15 AM
Ecu, cams, quad throttles, dremel port.

while the head is off for ghetto porting purposes, spend the money you saved not getting it properly done and buy a TRD steel head gasket = higher comp ratio.

Solo
9th November 2006, 03:01 AM
Weight reduction? Remove the interior... http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/7/5/4/536981.jpg

LordNafe
9th November 2006, 09:08 AM
Yeah, TRD .8mm headgasket for extra compression, portwork and 256deg cams.
Then get 4.6 diff gears. WOn't pick up more power, but will accelarate qicker.

RobertoX
9th November 2006, 11:40 AM
nos

Hen is a total nutcase
9th November 2006, 12:16 PM
I agree with Javal, cams (with cam gears if they need tuning in), headwork (worth doing properly if you are going to do it at all in my opinion) and quads are the route to "easy" NA power. And an ECU to get the most out of it all.

Then further down the track you'll need to make it rev higher to get more power so a balanced, lightened, well built bottom end is required.

Hen

deanoo
9th November 2006, 05:03 PM
thanx for all the info.. would a safc run cams, quad throlttle, and ported heads etc..???
ive already got 4.11 gearing

ke70dave
9th November 2006, 05:28 PM
thanx for all the info.. would a safc run cams, quad throlttle, and ported heads etc..???
ive already got 4.11 gearing[/b]


yeah i was wondering exactly the same thing, cuase safc is only 400$, yes people are gonna say we should get a proper aftermarket ecu, but if it works? why not do it!!

deanoo
9th November 2006, 09:29 PM
metal head gasket or the other kind???

LordNafe
9th November 2006, 11:30 PM
Yeah champ, TRD .8mm metal gasket.
4.11 isn't short enought to go fast, trust me http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/sad.gif

parkerlewis
10th November 2006, 10:07 AM
also consider an engine conversion....because when you weigh up how much cams/cam gears/ecu/quads/head gasket/labour etc will be, it might be worth a 20V or ZE conversion. I know that's not answering your ? but consider it anyway.

3sglevin
10th November 2006, 10:35 AM
I agree with parker maybe look at a 20v if you want to stay NA. it would be cheaper in the long run. also a diff ratio change would help if you want better acceleration.

mattysshop
10th November 2006, 11:25 AM
with my motor.. i spent about the same someone would doing a ST 20v conversion.. with aftermarket ecu (i mean setting it all up themselfs etc)

going off 400m times, and weight of the vehicle.. etc.. considering a s/t 20v runs about 15.6 - 15.7 in a 86 with semi stripped interior.. lsd/locker with intake/exhaust.. and they quote about 160hp stock.. with my 100kw smallport motor with

4AGE smallport 100kw motor
Rebuilt top to bottom including,
linished and rebalanced rods,
ACL severe duty bearings,
ACL rings with gapless top ring,
Ported/polished head
Decked 20thou,
new guids/stem seals,
bounce tested,
relapped valve seats etc,
20V quad throttle bodies,
hand spun aluminium trumpets,
T3 billet quad throttle adaptor,
4-1 extractors
2.25" mandril under diff system w/highflow cat
Adaptronic ECU


runs 15.55 at 90mph consitantly..

and the advantage is the motor is totally rebuilt top to bottom, fresh, and puts out more power then a stock 20v, and cost about the same at the end of the day to do..

rebuilt engine FTW!!

P.S. dynos are not the be all and end all my car is quicker than your as this dyno says it has 20hp more than yours.. the dyno i got my quote of 110rwhp is just a guide.. and a calculation (it was an old style dyno) off torque/gearing etc..

chapl
10th November 2006, 12:11 PM
and the advantage is the motor is totally rebuilt top to bottom, fresh, and puts out more power then a stock 20v, and cost about the same at the end of the day to do..[/b]

so true.... people think that the 20v is the best engine.... and the easiest option... but this is not always the truth..

3sglevin
10th November 2006, 02:03 PM
I agree the 20v isnt easiest but it is a good alternative to spending heaps on a 16v. I suppose you have to weight it all up to see what would give the best bang for buck.

Wanabe_Garage
10th November 2006, 02:30 PM
There is definatly more tuning gear out there for the 16v, not too mention local spare parts.

16v might yet be cheaper in the long run... but arn't 20v's sooo coool?

LordNafe
10th November 2006, 03:38 PM
Stroke the 16v.
Or build a 7age with 7afe block, 4age head and porsche timing belt. A bit more power, and lots of torque.

deanoo
10th November 2006, 06:00 PM
thanx everyone.... i would get a ze but im not aloud to drive turbo supercharged etcc.....
and plus i have heard abit of things about the 20v that arent so good so yee... and i have a 16v in the car now still in good condition

rthy
10th November 2006, 06:29 PM
dont the 7afe's have weaker rods and stuff? wouldnt be to fancy @ high revs...

LordNafe
13th November 2006, 10:17 AM
Yeah they do, but safe to rev to 7000rpm everyday, as long as it stays N/A. Not too much higher though,. but you wouldn't need to.

DRFTPG
13th November 2006, 12:30 PM
u can get high comp pistons, cams, feul system, exhaust, do up the head and good exhaust

anything afta that ur gonna be spendin HUGE money

Jonny Rochester
13th November 2006, 12:35 PM
Generaly speaking, if you want N/A power, get big cams. Thats the main thing. Something closer to 300 degrees. Then adjustable cam gears, and read heaps before dialing them in. Also you want reasonable compression and fuel. Maybe a 0.5mm head gasket, or new pistons, or anything to get up to 10:1 or more. Then a bigger throttle, or quad throttles so it can breath. Programable computer of course. Thats all you need for power. Porting and bigger valves will have a small effect.

Then lighter flywheel and a lighter car for better acceleration.

Then all the money you spend is to get it to last when you spin it over 8000rpm. The more money, the longer it will last and the higher it will rev. We are talking ballanced crank, ballanced flywheel, ballanced everything, good conrods, shim under bucket, good valve springs, good conrod bolts. Thats about it.

Then dyno tune.

chapl
13th November 2006, 01:02 PM
Generaly speaking, if you want N/A power, get big cams. Thats the main thing. Something closer to 300 degrees. Then adjustable cam gears, and read heaps before dialing them in. Also you want reasonable compression and fuel. Maybe a 0.5mm head gasket, or new pistons, or anything to get up to 10:1 or more. Then a bigger throttle, or quad throttles so it can breath. Programable computer of course. Thats all you need for power. Porting and bigger valves will have a small effect.

Then lighter flywheel and a lighter car for better acceleration.

Then all the money you spend is to get it to last when you spin it over 8000rpm. The more money, the longer it will last and the higher it will rev. We are talking ballanced crank, ballanced flywheel, ballanced everything, good conrods, shim under bucket, good valve springs, good conrod bolts. Thats about it.

Then dyno tune.[/b]

also exhaust/extractors...
the more air you got coming in, you want it to come out just as easy...