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Os7213
24th January 2007, 06:34 AM
Hi guys im looking to do a shimless conversion from 1SZFE to my 4age 16v red-top engine. Since the under-bucket shims is crazy expensive ill go for 1SZFE conversion.
I will use 272deg 9mm camshaft(int\ext) and im looking for valve clerance to use these camshafts.
I have a Toyota repair manual and it say the valve clerance should be:
Intake: 0.006in to 0.010in
Exhaust: 0.008in to 0.012in
But these clerance are for stock camshaft.

I got also a TRD Bible wich set the clerance for a 272deg 7.5mm lift to:
Intake: 0.005in
Exhaust: 0.007in

But i want to be sure of wich clerance I can use for my type of camshaft, someone know a clerance to be used for a 272deg 9mm lift camshaft(int\ext)?

Thank a lot

Ugo

mattysshop
24th January 2007, 08:01 AM
in general clearences should be set to .25mm in and .35mm out.. there shouldn't be any reason to change this..

asher
24th January 2007, 10:25 PM
Run them as close to the minimum spec as possible, TRD bible spec claerences should not hurt though. Running less gap means a tiny bit more lift.

Os7213
25th January 2007, 06:33 AM
Thank
Matty I just wondering if other clerance can give better result with 272deg 9mm lift camshafts.
I really need perfect clerance since I will use 1SZ-FE shimless bucket cause i can't grind them after i have order.
These cams are Toda racing cams...normally they are professional but I dont know why they haven't give me a specs sheet.

mattysshop
25th January 2007, 08:25 AM
if it's good enough to last 300 000KM of daily driving.. it's good enough for a race engine that would be lucky to see 50 000.

what type of valve springs are you going to run??

if you want to tighten them up use .20mm in and .30mm ex.. mind you you can't go to tight there still has to be clearence there..

mattysshop
25th January 2007, 08:26 AM
you wont get more power or anything running a tighter clearence.. its there for a reason..

Os7213
25th January 2007, 12:40 PM
I see thank for your reply.
I will use toda valve spring with stock valves
And i was more wondering about going to tight in clerance that why i have ask for the tightest setup and to be sure that can be okay.
So i think i will follow your advise and stay with the stock clerance since tighter clerance cant give better result.

Oh i also have another question to calculate the clerance does i need to have the head prepared with the 3 angles valves job to calculate it or i can just clean the valve+seat, installing Toda spring with stock bucket and calculate without proper valve job?

Thank a lot
Ugo

mattysshop
25th January 2007, 04:44 PM
the normal service procedure is to lap the valves in and then check clearences... http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/smile.gif

Os7213
26th January 2007, 01:53 PM
Just to be sure i have e-mail Toda just to recheck for valve clerance with specific camshaft.

And i thik i will get done the 3 angles valves job before checking clerance because my red-top head is dirty. Do you have a solution to really clear a aluminium head with steam maybe?

thank a lot for your infos i will post more question after ill finish the porting job.

Thanks
Ugo

Os7213
27th January 2007, 10:36 AM
Hi today i have contact Toda.
They said for the 272deg 9mm lift camshaft valve clerance should be:
Intake: 0.20mm
Exhaust: 0.25mm
And timing between 108-115deg

I ask my question do you have a solution to really clear a aluminium head with steam maybe?

thanks
Ugo

mattysshop
27th January 2007, 11:35 AM
Hi today i have contact Toda.
They said for the 272deg 9mm lift camshaft valve clerance should be:
Intake: 0.20mm
Exhaust: 0.25mm
And timing between 108-115deg

I ask my question do you have a solution to really clear a aluminium head with steam maybe?

thanks
Ugo[/b]

when the head goes to the shop you get decked to make sure it's all straight and valves lapped etc etc, they usually bead blast/hot tank it.. so just wait till then

mattysshop
27th January 2007, 11:35 AM
108 lobe centers will give you a fast idle sound, makes them sounds very very cool http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/smile.gif

Os7213
28th January 2007, 01:34 PM
Thank!
For now I will be honest I dont really know how to time the motor. I have read a little but im a kind of lost in it. Its the first time for me I need to time 4 cyls. Since i dismantle the block completly do you know a technic to time the engine easily?
I will use ajustable cam-gears.

Thanks
Ugo

mattysshop
29th January 2007, 08:54 AM
a degree wheel, and lots of patience..

terryo
4th February 2007, 08:22 AM
Ugo, the cam maker sets the clearance, depending on what he knows about valve expansion when hot in a particular engine, and how he has ground the acceleration ramps on the cam. His cam timing values are mostly worked out assuming certain clearances, so if you widen his recommened gap, you effectively lag (retard) the cam and reduce the lift. Forget any other info you have on standard cams.
Setting the cam timing precisely will require the use of a graduated wheel called a degree wheel. The cam maker has given you general advice about roughly where they should be set to commence opening and the lobe centre angles betwen the cams (ie when the inlet is so far open, where is the exhaust??). that is a start point only and adjustments will be required to get the most out of them. Very fine adjustments are not possible without vernier gears on the front of the cam. Some cams are ground so that the stock cam gear will never be able to be aligned at the suggested setting. You will not know this till to try to fit them. PM me if you need help