More lock??

[BrittanySpears]

hey all

So i have had the s13 suspension in for a while and its pretty nice, sick lock, but im a greedy ass and want more. I been told ya cant do it? well im sure there has to be something ya can do.
Me want Hibino spec http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/biggrin.gif

[Gilly]

no more thats it

at the moment at full lock your steering arm (part of the S13 hub) is contacting the LCA, that is what is determining your lock. The rack actually isn't at full travel but yeah the LCA is in the way!!

so you really can't go much further than that, even if you did its not far from coming to a point where the steering arm and tierod form a straight line and you will be locked in that position and won't be able to steer back the other way!!!

[BrittanySpears]

so your saying it has insane lock just be happy lol??

yea righto man im with ya but i swear i never seen my steering arm hit my control arm hmmm

[bahnugget]

it is possible to get more lock, but involves some custom work and you face the very real possiblity of moving the tie rod too far (past the pivot point) and never being able to bring it back around. i think this happened in one or two of the DA cars.

[Gilly]

so your saying it has insane lock just be happy lol??

yea righto man im with ya but i swear i never seen my steering arm hit my control arm hmmm[/b]

get under the car and check it out

if it doesn't touch it will at least come very close http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/tongue.gif

the "past the pivot point" thing happened to both Beau and Josh http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/tongue.gif

[Jonny Rochester]

I can fix the "past the pivot point thing" and still get lots of angle, but it involves cutting and rewelding the steering arm. Something people won't feel safe about.

Basicaly you have to cut the steering arm off and weld it on again with less ackermann effect, closer to parallel steering. Normaly a AE86 steering joint on the end of the steering arm is about 6mm inboard of the strut pivot, when going straight. Is sounds like the Silvia struts have more angle here? Reduce it down to about 3mm or 0 and you will have less problem. The result can be a bit weird, the steering will feel slower with more turns lock to lock, but you will get more angle, and will never have to do a 3 point turn again.

The trouble is getting someone to weld, and someone that is confident with these angles.

[Delazy]

u my friend jonny are a very very smart man!!

+1 rep for u yet again....

[BrittanySpears]

yea you said it delazy

Ok thanks guys, one day i may approach jonny with a full wallet wanting his help lol

[Joel-AE86]

I can fix the "past the pivot point thing" and still get lots of angle, but it involves cutting and rewelding the steering arm. Something people won't feel safe about.

Basicaly you have to cut the steering arm off and weld it on again with less ackermann effect, closer to parallel steering. Normaly a AE86 steering joint on the end of the steering arm is about 6mm inboard of the strut pivot, when going straight. Is sounds like the Silvia struts have more angle here? Reduce it down to about 3mm or 0 and you will have less problem. The result can be a bit weird, the steering will feel slower with more turns lock to lock, but you will get more angle, and will never have to do a 3 point turn again.

The trouble is getting someone to weld, and someone that is confident with these angles.[/b]

I had an idea a while back with my S13 setup to improve the lower control arm angle, and bring it closer to its original position (I guess similar to adding RCA's to normal ae86 struts) was to redrill the lower control arm mounting holes higher in the cross member. There is enough room to get 15-20mm higher.

I thought it through a while back and it seemed to be logical.

Any comment on this idea?

I can't see this as being a lock improvement.

EDIT: I too have had the S13 'over extension' whilst sliding. It aint too pretty. You can prevent this by welding some stoppers on the control arm to prevent the steering arm travelling over the control arm. This is at the slight reduction of lock however.

[Jonny Rochester]

Drilling a hole in the crossmember is ok. People do it. It is one tool you have in sorting angles out. But this is for a custom/race setup, where you should measure and calculate everything abit first. Another fine tuning thing is to lower or raise your steering rack. Another tool is to use aftermarket arms/joints where you use spacers to change the height of the pivot point of the steering tie-rod at the knuckle.

For a near stock AE86 drilling a hole in the crossmember would not be so good, even on a lowered car to correct roll centre and camber change. Because when you do that you only change the angle of the lower control arm, and not the steering tie-rod. This could cause bump steer. The RCA block is better for a stock lowered car because stock geometry is retained. The block changes the angle of the control arm and steering tie rod at the same time.

Longer control arms are sort of ok, because the steering tie rod gets lengthened the same amount.

I havn't looked at the S13 in AE86 stuff.

I am now thinking about a secret steering setup involving short but near straight zero ackermann/parallel steering knuckles/arms with a quick rack. Mindblowing steering angle and U-turn abilities... Don't tell anyone till I get me car going.