need questions answered urgently

[sprinters_r_mad]

hey guys

this is a 20v question. I would assume that only 20v converters would be able to truly answer my couple of questions but any help is very much appreciated. :)

some of you may have read in the vic section that my 4ac carked it last weekend. <_<

I am possibly buying either a 20v or a normal 16v in the next couple of days to weeks and I need to know a couple of things about 20v swaps from first hand experience/very well informed members.

1. besides loom and some cooling pipes and other small items, is a 20v a STRAIGHT swap in, E.G. will I need new x-member/engine mounts???

2. what do I definately need for a complete drive in, drive out swap? e.g. like loom, etc.?

these are the only questions I can think of at the moment, BUT I'm sure more will pop into my head at some stage so stay tuned to this thread :P

cheers heaps guys :2thumbs:

[rthy]

don't forget about intake and exhaust. 20v extractors has a slightly different bolt pattern.
you can run open quads but not sure how legal it is..
also dizzy (bash firewall or relocate or CAS)

it's pretty much like a 16v swap (besides a few things).

search phunktion dis b3 fooly hektix cuz

[Jonny Rochester]

The 20v bolts in if you take the distributor cap off. (then you have a ignition problem to sort out)
You use all the engine mounts from your AE86.
Best to use 4A-GE/AE86 waterpump, alternator bracket, fan, water pully, thermostate housing.
There are some water pipe parts you have to make for it, which are not so easy.
The 16valve exhaust fits, but 2 bolt holes are different.

[rthy]

first up I want to bash anyone who bashes a firewall in to fit a 20V. The exhaust side is easy and the extractors are easy to modify, the intake is real hard if you do it right. For the wiring you need a custom loom with a dli converter or an aftermarket ecu. Running an aftermarket ECU will get you a quite a bit more power throughout the whole rev range.

[sprinters_r_mad]

I went to my local/trusted mechanic and asked him if he would do it for me and he accepted straight away

BUT I want to make sure 100% that I have everything needed to make the swap as straightforward as possible because I wanna keep costs down as much as possible but also so I can keep the relationship I have with him as good as possible.

when I look at 20v conversions such as this: it looks as though it just slots in without too much hassle.

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/1606/d1specenginexz3.jpg
(I hope d1 spec doesnt mind me using his pic)


so if I was to make a list of the thing I will need for a total conversion it would be something like:

1. standard loom (aftermarket when I get money)
2. modified extractors
3. new exhaust system
4. the need to relocate dizzy


please add more if there need to be more added :2thumbs:

ALSO NOTE..........I can only have it stock for the moment because I'm not paying for it and I can't spend money left, right and centre. so no extras that make it better FOR NOW :P

[Jonny Rochester]

The list is longer than that, and it's been talked about...

water pipes... bracket to put dizzy cap and rotor on the front (leave CAS on the back)... ECU...

[kaibeecee]

don't forget you'll need to modify the 16v water pump housing, external thermostat, blanking plates for the rear water outlets & billet cover for crank angle sensor to do it right. bashing the fire wall to fit the dizzy is a headache and makes it harder to get a RWC/engineers report in the long run. AND you can keep the factory heater box.

so many things to factor in, whether you want a airbox, what ignition etc. trust me, go aftermarket management, do this right the first time and you'll avoid so much shit down the track

[sprinters_r_mad]

please forgive my ignorance in this area, I'm trying my best to learn very quickly. when it's nearly time for me to buy something I research it like crazy until I know almost all about it. this however has almost been forced on me AND I'm quite a slow learner <_< so thank you all for your patience

SO I just read up a bit on aftermarket ECU's and I think I'm FIIIINALLY starting to understand what they are all about. I'm going to guess from what you guys are saying that if I don't go aftermarket ECU I'm going to have problems with the ignition system, air intake regulation, oil and petrol regulation etc, BUT if I do go aftermarket ECU I can potentially get more power, ignition will be sorted out, air, oil and petrol regulation will be sorted and other things?

I fkn hope I'm getting all this right because I'm frustrated at my lack of knowledge but please don't hesitate to correct me

AND what brand/model would you guys recommend? I wanna go haltech because they're in melbourne :P but microtech actually has a model that specifically suits a 20v, the LT8s I believe

cheers guys :2thumbs:

[bahnugget]

yeah,

bascially you either have to go AFTERMARKET ecu so you can run your ignition off a crank angle sensor, instead of the dizzy..

OR

get an aftermarket computer and ditch the dizzy all together.

[kaibeecee]

coil on ignitor is obviously the preffered way, I think you use 2zz-fe coils or similar.

aftermarket is just that, full adjustibility. you have to factor in things like VVT control, and whether the ecu can adapt this.