View Full Version : Rear guard welding???
Ksevn-T
16th April 2009, 02:00 PM
hello,
Looking at chopping out my rear guards on my ke70 (not to mention the rust) and weld on ke70 front's. How far do you have to cut the guard back to? Do you have to weld that seem halfway? Arent you left with a sharp edge inside that guard, once the new one has been welded on? Has anyone got any pics or tips and tricks?
Alex
Matt-AE86
16th April 2009, 02:37 PM
"Where on earth is Carmeon Slydar-aigo, where on earth could he be!"
Slydar will answer all your questions.
--Redwork--
16th April 2009, 02:52 PM
You cut the guards where the flare meets the body on both the fornt and rear guards... then you'll have to trim the Front guard part down to suit the contours of the rear of the car and then weld it on...
Should be no sharp edges persay inside the guards just a weld. Which you could grind/flap disk smother if you were concered anyway....
This is just my ASSUMTION...
The one and only Slydar will no dobt answer all your questions.
As he;s done this quite a few time now for ppl.
starni_boy
16th April 2009, 04:50 PM
Same deal as a bolt on flare, cut off, put on.
To answer your question:
Cut the front guard along the flare, same with rear. Draw reference lines on the flare and quarter once you have it positioned where you would like so you get it in the right spot. Trim whatever needs trimming to suit.
What seam are you talking about? The one in the middle of the rear flare?
No, you don't have to. I haven't and the car is fine. Up to you though.
For the sharp edge, to as said above, get under it and grind it back. No brainer.
Man, just get in there and do it, no one will be able to give you a detailed explanation like you actually getting in there and having a go. It's what I did, turned out good!
Matt-AE86
16th April 2009, 05:03 PM
Smoothing the inside with sikaflex works good plus seals your welds etc etc.
ae86
16th April 2009, 05:16 PM
awaits the king of modified guards to comment.
Nic19
16th April 2009, 06:05 PM
we did mine last weekend. grinded slits up the old rear guard and tapped them out tacked the old inner and outer together, then used the front guards lip to tuck over the old inner and out that was previously tacked. just need to bog n smooth them and then silicone the gaps underneath to make it water tight.
i used more of the guards then just the flare, i ran it up the quater a lil so its more sturdy then just the flare itself
cheers
nic
stahlz_ae86
16th April 2009, 06:27 PM
if you get a chance nic throw up a pic of the final product. I'd be keen to see as your guards were quite the interesting:P
Matt-AE86
16th April 2009, 06:43 PM
we did mine last weekend. grinded slits up the old rear guard and tapped them out tacked the old inner and outer together, then used the front guards lip to tuck over the old inner and out that was previously tacked. just need to bog n smooth them and then silicone the gaps underneath to make it water tight.
i used more of the guards then just the flare, i ran it up the quater a lil so its more sturdy then just the flare itself
cheers
nic
Maybe you can read over your post and rephrase it ? I can't follow what you did. And I do have higher than a 3rd grade reading level.
resol
16th April 2009, 07:14 PM
well how big do you want your gaurds? i can flare them a long way! but if you want wide STOCK looking guards then weld on is the way.
-dan
Ksevn-T
16th April 2009, 08:24 PM
Theres too much rust and bog to flare them so weld on is the only option. I heard it was quite hard to weld guard since they warp under heat. Awaiting slydar opinion! Pics Pics Pics!
biggo
16th April 2009, 09:01 PM
ive done it and i wouldnt reccomend it, theres alot of time involved and if you dont know what your doing, one wrong cut can be the end.
but really just cut trim cut trim and go from there.
resol
16th April 2009, 09:20 PM
Theres too much rust and bog to flare them so weld on is the only option. I heard it was quite hard to weld guard since they warp under heat. Awaiting slydar opinion! Pics Pics Pics!
metal warps under heat of welding. but if you know hopw to weld, and keep the heat down and allow the metal to cool between welds it should be alright....
stylz
16th April 2009, 09:23 PM
blot ons? im presuming the rust is around the crease where the two panels join up, so how would bolt ons look? :s
cut away the rusted parts and WHAMM
Nic19
16th April 2009, 10:04 PM
well i grinded slits up the old guards to where the flare meets the body. then hammered them out like u would flare the guard. the inner and outer were then tacked together. now the fronts were cut out and mocked up to the rear. these were trimed to fit and then drilled to hold them there. the lip on the front guard was now lipped up over the old guards under the wheel arch. it was all tacked and now just needs bogging and smoothing. its hard to explain i will get pics up tomorrow.
slydar
16th April 2009, 10:19 PM
cut the outer skin of the 1/4 on the flare line.
also cut it just above the return. then youll be able to reveal the inner. cut the inner a little below, so you have a bit of excess, so you can hammer it up and weld it shut.then trim it back. you can just do spots here, like every 2cm or so, saves over heating the 1/4 and saves a lot of time.
then like ppl said, cut the section from the front guard on the flare line and weld it on to where the old crease is. fully weld this along the whole join. do like 1cm or so at a time moving around and. cool the area after each short run. use a wet rag or air from an air blower.
it will still sink. but you grind the weld back and bog it up. expect to have to bog a fair bit above the crease.
seal the inside with a paintable seam sealer. get the one you can apply with a corking gun. i give it a bit of a bash also, before the bod goes on the outside of course, just to make a bit more room.
thats it, ke's are easier than 86s cos of the door. its hard to fuck up really. doesnt sink as easy and there is no reo' in there thats in the way. and less flat area to sink cos half of it is the door.
good luck, remember, its just a ke, a rusted one at that. give it a go.
i usually take the tank out so i dont get blown up.
make sure if you do you dont put it where the sparks are flying.
Nic19
18th April 2009, 02:45 PM
here u can see how far up mine come. there is room for just a skim of bog over the top.
cheers
nichy
12th June 2012, 12:05 PM
sorry to bring up a old thread. but im doing this atm and can not get a good weld on the guard. not matter what i have my welder on it blows through...... its like the metal is way to thin.....
anyone else struck this ? lol
dove grey 64
12th June 2012, 12:33 PM
what type of welder are you using? mig/tig/arc? gas or gasless? if your metal is really rusty it will blow through quickly
nichy
12th June 2012, 12:51 PM
using a mig. have tryed on gas and gasless. its only a shit ozito one.
metal is quiet nice as all the rust has been removed. i can get a weld to hold..... but i would be very ashamed to show it as it just burns through and spits heaps...haha.
ae86 slide
12th June 2012, 03:37 PM
Im no pro welder but I had this same prob with my gaurds and it wasn't till a pro welder friend of mine showed me the correct settings.
Make sure your wire speed is turned down and obviously power right down low, practice alot on some of cuts and get the settings just right.
nichy
12th June 2012, 04:22 PM
Yeah im no pro but can lay a decent weld. Have tried most settings but Will have some pratice time then call a mate lol. Cheers dude
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