Aftermarket Cams/Camshafts on 20v

[Wanabe_Garage]

Just curious how you install aftermarket Cams/Shafts on the 20v and what happens to the VVT?

[Gunner]

um well i have always been told u would have to remove it, same goes for fittin adj cam gears. but i have seen a 20v by HKS with an adj vvti cam gear.
so i would say if u got the money to find out why not. but u couldnt go too wild, and it would help a shitload, to be able to adjust the amount and speed that the vvti would come on.

[Wanabe_Garage]

hmmm... I havn't done much reaserch into this at the moment.... or considering doing something like this. Im just trying to expand my knowledge on these engines.


Do you remove it machnaically or just unplug it? :huh:

[Jonny Rochester]

For 20V cams TODA is the best website/manufacturer I have seen. I would like to have TODA everything for my 20V. I havn't bought anything yet.

I think they make mild cams for the 20v, and you retain VVT.

The VVT unit is on the inlet cam only, and is a big adjustable cam gear driven by oil pressure. With large duration and lift cams you don't want the VVT thing because it may cause things to hit each other? Or just poorly. The big cams TODA make are not compatible with the VVT anyway, and you are best to buy their adjustable cam gears.

[350hp4agte]

:2thumbs: yeh what he said /\ /\ /\ /\

kelford cams are what im useing they have a good range and a good price



http://www.kelford.co.nz/newracecams.html

im also using JUN ajustable cam gears i got from perfectrun good guys to deal with quick delivery



http://www.perfectrun.com.au/index.htm

[Gunner]

did some research it can be done, and has been done. tho u cant run wild cams, and as for removing the vvti, unplug it and its gone

[Wanabe_Garage]

oh i see...

trying to keep to vvt is beyond my reach i think.
removing it and fitting in all them cam goodies will reduce torque right?

Im just browsing through a range of cams and etc.
and correct me if im wrong but is duration how long the valve is open for and lift is how much it opens??

[shinny]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Wanabe_Garage @ Dec 7 2007, 10:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=448643)</div>
Im just browsing through a range of cams and etc.
and correct me if im wrong but is duration how long the valve is open for and lift is how much it opens??[/b]

correct.

you don't want too much lift... coz you'll have to fuck around with shim's n stuff.

[Gunner]

putting bigger/wilder cams in, is an art to say the least. theres alot of different variations, which means alot of potential problems, theres alot of ways to find yourself going backwards.
You need to identify your style of driving, then find where the extra torque/power is going to best suit.

so for example, the majority of your spirited driving finds you in the range of 3500-6500rpm, go for something that will make power in that area, if your like me and like to keep it up and over 5000rpm go for somethin wild.

with lift and duration is where it gets tricky, and for your motor to benefit from any headwork, it would be best set by a professional thats had success with 20v's. for example, too much lift and u may find the lobe catchin the edge of the bucket, and in turn removing shims or actually jamming the bucket in the head, simple matter of fact there is a limit to how far u can go.

another thing is surrounding hadware, things like retainers, valve springs, colletts, valve seats and etc, the further u go with cams is the further u have to go with those components.

so basically find a shop, explain what your after, see what they can offer, and go from there. dont go out buying a pair of 304 cams, you will likely regret it, take all thats been said here, what your head guy says, compile it and then make an informed decision.

[Jonny Rochester]

From memory TODA sell their cams in 2 different lifts, standard and big. The standard lift cams (but big duration) can be used with stock valve springs and everything. With the big lift ones you also have to buy their upgraded valve springs. Along with adjustable cam gears to suit, I hope that's all the parts you have to buy.

The 20v has the shims under the bucket which is good.

You also need a degree wheel and a dial gauge and know how to set it up. Otherwise it should be good to go. ... then computer tuning.

[dr1ft-pig]

i just got my 20v going, and it goes very well, but would like a nice set of cams to give it a bit more go, i want to keep the vvt as thats the whole reason went for a 20v, what about the biggest degree of cam i could go without sacrificing vvt wouldn't mind a bit more lift either, and as was said here go stonger/stiffer valve springs and new shims

[Gunner]

i would imagin anything over 250 degrees is probly too far, but ill chek it out this week, new boss recons hes done it so ill scab some info

[Javal]

...wrong thread :(

[ae71neo]

*watching thread for ideas* :ph34r:

[Gunner]

tomorro we will kno

[Gunner]

sorry to say it, but its not worth the trouble, sure it would be slightly more drivable down low, but to get it right would take alot of time and money, just somethin that has to be suited to urself, which in turn means research